Which antifreeze? Changing to Aluminum radiator

charle1999

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My ‘87 F250 6.9 developed a radiator leak. Besides the pencil size hole that caused me to pull the radiator the tubes were covered with corrosion and lots of tiny leaks and I mean lots. I have a new aluminum radiator on the way. I have spent a couple of hours reading threads on coolants and additives and am not sure what all they mean. Too many acronyms. I know I shouldn’t just use any antifreeze and I know that there additives but I don’t know which ones would be right for me. Can some one tell me what I need to know? Like which coolant I need for the aluminum radiator, 50/50 mix, what the additives are, etc.?
 

franklin2

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Like the other threads you read, probably I was in a few, I will repeat. Zerex Go5 is what I run with my aluminum radiator.
 

Cubey

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Like the other threads you read, probably I was in a few, I will repeat. Zerex Go5 is what I run with my aluminum radiator.

That's what I'm running in my RV's original factory brass/copper radiator. Seems fine, so far. No additives are needed with it, as I understand it.
 

Golden Helmet

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I just order 4 gallons of the pink Fleet Charge concentrate from O'Reilly's, it's the correct low silica base antifreeze with the SCA's already added to stop cavitation. You can then either test the coolant now and then to maintain the correct SCA levels, or if you're lazy like me, forget about testing and just dump and refill your coolant every few years.
 

1mouse3

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I am using Zerex elc ZXED1 from napa, the g05 is also fine. What I have found through searching is that when going with elc, is to stay away from any with 2EH acid. I think most elc is correct for aluminum and if Im correct the green eats it, dont remeber what the first run of dex eats. Someone that knows more might chime in and further this thread.


https://www.oilburners.net/threads/zerex-g-05.80028/page-2

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The_Josh_Bear

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+1 Fleet Charge or Final Charge. Both super solid for any modern diesel, all of which have aluminum. For that matter great for our diesels too!

NAPA used to carry Fleet Charge but have switched to their own version of the same thing. Which was a surprise the other day but it'll work well.

50/50 mix is convenient but you can save a lot of money using straight and distilled water. I used to have a decent coolant loss on my pickup and I'd use the full strength every other gallon of fluid loss. But I'd keep the distilled in my cab, cause then in a pinch you could use it to drink vs coolant which you cannot. :drunk:

Also don't forget to use the block drains to get all the old coolant out, they are a PITA to get to but it's the only way to get the block mostly dry.
 

Booyah45828

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Regular green.

Everyone seems to hate it because it require maintenance with test strips and additives. But unless you're using an egr cooler with super high temps, regular green is what I recommend.

Champion also recommends regular green with their aluminum radiators.
https://shop.championcooling.com/articles/What-Coolant-Color-Do-I-Use

If it's got an egr cooler, then I recommend final charge.

And if your radiator was covered in corrosion with lots and lots of tiny leaks, check the current coolant's acidity and check for stray current in the cooling system.
 

renjaminfrankln

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I recently switched from green to peak final charge. Available for about $12/gal at wal-mart. Working fine in my champion 3 row. No more concerns about test strips or SCA's.

Pull the two drain plugs in the block, fill with distilled water, drive around until its warm, pull both drain plugs in the block and the one on the radiator. Then fill with the orange stuff.
 

Kevin 007

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All the above suggestions are good. You will find that there are lots of options really, many of which do the trick just fine.

I run Prestone Purple HD command in ALL my various diesel. And that's just my preference and available brand. It does just fine.
 

charle1999

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Thanks everyone for your suggestions. They were helpful and instructive. With all the snow and ice here and most everywhere else I am still waiting in my radiator. We are finally out of the ice and our power is back on. Hope all is well.
 

oldmisterbill

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This is kind of late. But I have delt with heat issues in hard working engines for years. I have read over and over about the benefits, reduced possibilities of sitting beside the road boiling over while your engine crackles and pops with steam boiling out of the radiator. My belief is that Evans coolant is well worth the heavy price tag. Reduced chance of leaking thru the seal of your water pump, less chance of blowing out a robber hose, even expansion of the metals in the engine. It contains controlling the heat of an engine that is well over the boiling point. Over end over I have read that an engine still full of coolant is still working to keep unequal expansion and contracting of metal can be critical for the survival of an engine. I lent a diesel tractor to help a unemployed friend make a few bucks. He checked the coolant then went to work on a 110 degree day in a field. It got hot pushed the coolant out the water pump seal (must have been failing when he started with it) he continued to run it till it blew our thru the pressure cap then drove t across the field to the trailer. The engine was junk. I am sure it would have gone longer,maybe finished the day itf it had Evans in it. I have Evens in my old shaker 58 Case now for 10 years. Still clean. Still runs with the gasket intentally cut. Never added coolant, I feel it has saved me a lot as I have had to have someone else use it here since I Wasn’t able to get up on it for several years. The good is l ran it last week for 7 hrs. Yea! I plan to get a truck and Evans will be put in it. Also I won’t need anti cavitation additive in it. A win win.
 

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