WHERE did you mount your CARRIER pump???

[riotwarrior]

K lets try and keep this simple,

1st where and how did you mount your carrier pump?...please if possible, provide some pics

2nd how did you wire it up and why did you do it that way?

I've got to do my own, and rather than REINVENT a wheel I'd like to see whatchall done and see if we can have a collective thread.

Please lets keep it to pics and brief answers to the two questions. like that will happen....

Thanks

Al

 

[icanfixall]

Well Al some members ran the power thru a oil pressure switch. That way the pump shuts off when the oil pressure is zero. I ran mine direct with an fuse because I want it running when the key is switched on. It builds pressure and forces out any air that got in the system when shut down. My truck can sit for several days without a start but when I do crank I get an instant liteoff. That tells me the pressure in tje hard lines and pump stays up during shut downs. The pump is located just on the other side of the tank switching valve. Its about 10 or 12 inches from it. The rubber lines from the valve to the pump to the line slip over my plastic lines easily too. Just used some hose clamps and thats it. I will add this about cutting the supply line. No matter how you do it your going to hve diesel leaking out on you. Remember gravity makes everything flow down your arms into your tender armpits. It burns plenty otto... Hurts plenty too so watch out for this gravity thing. There are many ways to solve this leak like install the pump with the hoses connected. Then cut the supply line and quickly connect the new rubber line to it. What I did was placed a small C clamp on the new rubber line. Cut the plastic supply line and quickly pushed the clamped rubber line to it. Some imagination is needed here but I'm sure you can work it out. Lastly you can blow back thru the supply line to clear it too. I really didn't want to do that when I installed my electric pump cause at the time I did not have a filter bleeder line to the return line system. So the air had to be sent thru the injection pump and injecters. Now I have anew bleeder valve and it returns to the return line system. Better starts and a better fuel system. I bought the truck in this manner without a filter air bleed valve so I did not know it was needed like it was. Now I know. these engines will run with all kinds of modifications done to the fuel systems.. some good.. some not so good. But they stil run. I also used a piece of 1/4 inch thick rubber between the mount and frame rail.

 

[gandalf]

My Carrier pump is mounted on the frame rail, just ahead of, sequence order, the GoldenRod filter. I have provision for a small throwaway plastic filter ahead of the Carrier pump. So, in order, I have the small throwaway filter, Carrier pump, Goldenrod filter, all along the frame rail, then up to the stock fuel filter.

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I have less worry than you do about road damage. I don't do any wheeling. I plan to eventually have good strong guard shields for everything under there.

Power: I have power for the Carrier pump coming from the starter solenoid on the passenger side fender well, running through an inline fuse, to a standard relay. The relay trigger comes in from the IP. Then there is a single wire running to the Carrier pump, which is grounded locally. The relay, of course, is also grounded. So, I turn the key and two things happen: the glow plugs come alive, and the fuel pump starts humming, building fuel pressure. I can hear the pump start--haven't gone too deaf yet--and see the WTS light for the glow plugs.

This is the type question where you can expect 7 answers when you ask 5 people. Study your options, then start in to work. Gitter done, get creative.

 

[Iowa 73]

Mine was on the passenger side battery tray at the bottom. Made the hose routing and wire running pretty simple. I don't think I took any pictures, but I'll check later.

 

[160k87F250]

I thought the Carrier pumps liked to suck better than push. Thats why I was under the impression they should be mounted close to the engine. Im looking into mounting mine near the passenger battery tray, then run though a Racor filter/water seperater then onto the stock fuel filter.

John

 

[gandalf]

I thought the Carrier pumps liked to suck better than push. Thats why I was under the impression they should be mounted close to the engine...

John

As I understand it, the Carrier pump may like to suck fuel slightly better than it like to push. After all, they are made for refer units, which are mounted high up on the front of trailers. However, they seem to work quite well pushing also. I've had no problem with mine mounted as it is. If it does ever present a problem I can move it.

I originally mounted it on the frame rail because it was suggested to me, by a trusted adviser/guru, that mounting it in the engine compartment might present a heat soak problem.

 

[icanfixall]

So far I know of one member that had a cavitation issue when he mounted his under the truck so he then mounted it high up on a headache rack. then it worked fine. I saw this truck a few years ago and that setup. I don't recall if my pump was installed yet but mine is located under the truck as posted.. Now issues yet either.. I really need to get under there and look at the pump for problems. I'm usually looking for problems under the truck every oil change but its been a long time since an oil change.. Not many miles ading up to a change yet.

 

[hesutton]

Both of mine are on the driver's frame rail like pictured above. Both trucks........ the pumps are on a relay and a toggle. One toggle position lets the pump run with the ignition....... to bleed the system when needed........ The other position on the toggle and it runs via an oil pressure safety switch. No oil pressure...... no fuel being pumped.


Heath

 

[hesutton]

One thing I forgot to add......... When I went with electric fuel pump (before I Facet Duralift even), I installed a fuel pressure gauge in the cab. Autometer electric sender (don't want to mess with mechanical with an isolator). The sender is in the fuel filter header where the filer light sender used to live. Fuel pressure after the filter is important (to me at least) in knowing how healthy my fuel supply is. I've been pleased with the Autometer gauge and sender. Very quick (no lag at all) to read changes in pressure, and have had zero issues with them on either IDI.


Heath

 

[riotwarrior]

One thing I forgot to add......... When I went with electric fuel pump (before I Facet Duralift even), I installed a fuel pressure gauge in the cab. Autometer electric sender (don't want to mess with mechanical with an isolator). The sender is in the fuel filter header where the filer light sender used to live. Fuel pressure after the filter is important (to me at least) in knowing how healthy my fuel supply is. I've been pleased with the Autometer gauge and sender. Very quick (no lag at all) to read changes in pressure, and have had zero issues with them on either IDI.


Heath

Oh I understand that Isolator and mechanical guage issue, however I got one at a ridiculous price so I will be adding it too! Maybe T'd in where the schrader valve is so I can still bleed off if need be! I don't know yet just thinking it out.

May have to add in one of Mel's custom IP feed lines too whilst doing it all....OMG when does it end *****

 

[icanfixall]

Well Al you have clearly framed up the "when will it ever end" theme... Easy answer. Never or when ever you choose to end it... Isn't that nice.. We are in complete controll.. So why does it hurt when I realize there is so much left to do and so little time...

 

[Ruger_556]

I mounted mine on the radiator support next to the battery tray and wired it to the terminal on the injection pump so it'll prime the system while the glow plugs run. It'll start on the second or third crank over. I just bypassed the factory pump on the block completely. It's not the carrier brand but same idea.

 

[mf7lakes]

Al n all --- this is a link to a great thread (from oilburners) from time past that is a good "how-to" on the carrier pump...

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...pump-with-a-Facet-Duralift-electric-fuel-pump

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

i have mine mounted in the engine bay on a custom built bracket bolted to the side of the alternator.running off a relay triggered via the FSS.

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i used to have it laying down up on the inner pass side fender.it ran great that way as well (even though "preferred" method is upright,it didn't matter.) but i ditched my vac pump and needed the fender to mount my electrical pump for HVAC.

edit;
oops i forgot to answer why i wired it this way.
i wired it using this common method,because i bypassed the oem lift pump,and wanted a simplistic,no fuss,turn key and go running truck without a toggle to worry about.

 

[theguruat12]

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I got a big t-plate from Ace (Home Depot) has them too, the kind that attaches two beams together on top of a post. Then I cut the two ears down and bent a 90 degree angle in the base and drilled some holes, it works well as a bracket.

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Some shots of the wiring.

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I'm actually going to turn mine so that it is suspended over the empty space next to the wheel well; I want to move it lower in the compartment but still be able to spin the bowl off, and that would do it. It would also allow me to move that vacuum reservoir back to where it goes.