Wheel Bearing Torque Spec

Hydro-idi

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Goodmorning fellas,

Finally decided to change out the brake pads, bearings, and rotors on my rig yesterday. It is a 2wd rig. I currently have new bearings packed with grease and new rotor back on spindle. Is there a specific torque spec for the spindle nut? I do not want bearings too loose because that's how they were before and made one heck of a rattling every time I hit a pothole. Right now, they have a slight preload to them. Enough to keep the rotor from spinning "completely" freely and am not sure if this is an acceptable pre-load for these type of bearings. Right now they continue to spin about a half turn until coming to a stop when spinning rotor by hand. Any help would be appreciated as always! Thanks
 

IDIoit

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top of the mornin Ian!

as far as i know, no torque spec,
tighten it while rotating the tire when you get all of the play out, tighten it to the next slot on the nut cage and install a cotter pin.
 

Hydro-idi

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top of the mornin Ian!

as far as i know, no torque spec,
tighten it while rotating the tire when you get all of the play out, tighten it to the next slot on the nut cage and install a cotter pin.

Morning Brian,

Thanks for the info. As of now, the wheel is not mounted to the rotor. I just tightened spindle nut until rotor started to bind up, then backed off 1 or 2 clicks. The rotor doesn't have any play in it and does drag a little as of now.
 

IDIoit

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you want the bearing tight, but not over tight.

i always tighten the spindle nut with the tire on, and check for play while i spin it (rocking it back and fourth)
test drive it and recheck!
i have done this without having the races properly installed, caused me some trouble!
 

opusd2

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That's pretty much how I handle bearing preloads. Spin the wheels until there's a drag on it, then back off a few degrees. Then after a few days of driving (or sooner if I feel issues) I will recheck the torque on the bearings.

This is a good thread.
 

Hydro-idi

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Thanks for the helpful info. This is the first time i have done brakes/wheel bearings. So far everything is going well. I just want to make sure I don't have a bearing failure because I set them too tight. The bearings have a slight drag to the point where rotors are free enough to turn, but do not continue turning after being spun by hand. I am thinking they will loosen up after a few miles anyways
 

laserjock

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Actually I think there is a spec in the dana manual. I think its 50 ft lbs and back it off a 1/4 turn. If you search the Dana 60 bible online... the pages will show up and I am just sure that is what I read. I don't have time right this second to go find it. I had it while I was doing my rebuild.

In full disclosure, I usually do it by feel but I was going to try this and see how it feels this time.

Edit::: sorry I just saw you are 2 wd.
 

ironworker40

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From The Ford Manual

Here are the pages from the 1993 2wd section
 

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laserjock

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I'm not crazy... my mother had me tested.

Just to prove I didn't dream it.

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Hydro-idi

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Thanks for all of the helpful information. I ended up torquing spindle nuts to 50 ft lbs and then backed them off 1/4 turn. I talked to a few more people about it today and this seems to be the best way to pre-load wheel bearings. Same procedure is done with some semi trucks too.
They seemed to be a little more loose than I initially had them but there is no bearing wobble and everything is still nice and tight. Front brake and bearing job complete! I also went ahead and bled all brake lines for the first time in 28 years. Brake fluid looked like molasses. Brakes work much better now that job is complete ;Sweet.
 
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