What new radiator to buy?

WAID

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7 years on this aluminum/plastic and so far so good.
(I had the original brass/copper but only one shop in Philly area would re-core it and the price was crazy $$$$$$$ expensive with only a one year warranty.
I also have the same in my 81 Corvette for a couple years and so far so good.(a ***** to change)
Scrapped the two brass/copper rads with a small bucket of copper and put over $150 in my pocket.
WOW... price below has gone-up!
I went with the plastic and aluminum as well after reading towcats recommendation on them. Mines been in about five years now with no issues.
 

Cubey

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rhkcommander

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Grounding the radiator helps prevent electrolysis. Even semi's radiators come with a riveted on ground strap.
I get that if it's a plastic tanked radiator maybe, but if it's metal on metal it seems redundant to me. Grounding a grounded object. Take a wire from battery positive to your inframe rad if you think it isn't grounded already, you'll quickly see its grounded. Guess I'll have to do some research when I'm bored, but I know there used to be an old tale of underly-ground IDIs

Sorry OP, didn't mean to derail.
 

Nero

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I get that if it's a plastic tanked radiator maybe, but if it's metal on metal it seems redundant to me. Grounding a grounded object. Take a wire from battery positive to your inframe rad if you think it isn't grounded already, you'll quickly see its grounded. Guess I'll have to do some research when I'm bored, but I know there used to be an old tale of underly-ground IDIs

Sorry OP, didn't mean to derail.
The truck radiators are aluminum with plastic tanks, but still bolt onto the side with a direct contact. Apparently an engineer felt it was necessary.
 
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