What lube?

Selahdoor

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What lube do you guys use in your pumpkins, and transfer case?
 

chillman88

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Transfer case just takes regular ATF

Rear diff I think I'm running 80w-90 but I plan on putting 75w-140 synthetic in next change in the Dually. I'm cheap, the 250 will probably get 80w-90, although I might go synthetic, I'll keep it a 90 weight since that doesn't see much hauling.
 

chillman88

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Unless you're asking brand lol. I'm just running Walmart ATF and Carquest gear oil right now.
 

Selahdoor

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Thinking I'm just going to look at tractor supply for the cheapest gear lube for the two pumpkins.

Didn't know that about the transfer case. Glad I asked.

The shop that did all that work, was supposed to have changed the lube in all 3.

Checked the front pumpkin this evening after I finished up the bearings and all, and had it back on the ground... Bone dry! Wondering if maybe they emptied it but forgot to fill it. Happens to the best of shops.

I put in what I had. About a pint and a half. Still not full. But at least it's not bone dry any more.

I'll put some cardboard under it to check for leaks.

Also going to check the rear. And the transfer case. Tomorrow. Just too tired tonight...
 

Cubey

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My RV has an open diff in it's Dana 70, and it was disgusting from possibly the original oil. At first I put in conventional SuperTech 80w90 gear oil, then changed it to conventional SuperTech 85w140 after a couple thousand miles of mostly highway driving. Next time, I will probably put in full synthetic Valvoline 75w140 since the gears should be pretty cleaned up after 2 oil changes like that. I have a reusable LubeLocker gasket so it makes it easy to change the oil. I don't have to clean off RTV and gasket material from the mating surfaces.
 

Cubey

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Yeah just like Cubey I just put some in to flush out the old junk. I had planned on changing it by now but... I'd planned on having a lot of other stuff done by now too LOL

A leaking wheel seal is partly what prompted me to go ahead and change it again, since I was already working back there replacing the seals on both sides.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Well I'm going to be going through everything back there. Brakes, hub seals, etc so I may as well just put the synthetic in unless there's something that looks really bad.
 

gnathv

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The best cleaner I’ve ever put in a differential is full synthetic lube. I used Royal Purple in one truck and when I went to buy it for second truck it had almost doubled. I used Walmart tech brand synthetic Instead. As far as I’m concerned it’s Royal Purple without the dye. I’ve been very pleased with it and it cleans the old crud out.
 

Cubey

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The best cleaner I’ve ever put in a differential is full synthetic lube. I used Royal Purple in one truck and when I went to buy it for second truck it had almost doubled. I used Walmart tech brand synthetic Instead. As far as I’m concerned it’s Royal Purple without the dye. I’ve been very pleased with it and it cleans the old crud out.

It's also a lot more expensive than conventional just for cleaning it out. Being an open diff, I don't have to worry about LS crap. It's $15 for a gallon for the stuff, and the diff uses about 95% of a gallon to refill. Two fills with conventional costs $22 less than ONE fill of synthetic. ($15 x 2gal conventional = $30 -vs- $13 x 4qts synhetic = $52)
 

Cubey

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It does do more than clean. It does run cooler.

I'm talking about using it for short term oil change intervals of 5k miles or less as a means of cleaning out 36 year old oil.
 

u2slow

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Regular 80-90W by the 5gal pail. A bucket pump makes it easy to dispense.
 

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