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Well back again

Discussion in 'Lounge' started by Waystro, Sep 4, 2019.

  1. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    These distributors are marked where the rotor is supposed to point. The 96+ 350 vortec engines are different from the regular SBC. Everything in the timing is computer controlled. He's not lining it up with cylinder 8, he's lining it up with the mark on the distributor for the v8 engines. The other mark is for the v6 engines.

    https://www.diyforums.net/install-chevy-4.3l-5.7l-vortec-distributor-1065.html
     
  2. Waystro

    Waystro No Class

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    How do I find timing mark? I only have 1 line
     
  3. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    Figured was a little different than the old school stuff, being computer controlled and all. Lol

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
     
  4. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Yeah its a pain in the ass lol

    I would assume if you only have one mark that must be it. Have you verified both valves on cylinder one are closed when everything is lined up?
     
  5. Waystro

    Waystro No Class

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    I was having a brain storm and was thinking we used rtv for the oil pan on idi so why can’t we use it for the manifolds? The guys on the Chevy forums don’t seem to like that idea.
     
  6. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    RTV isn't very fuel resistant and there is gasoline spraying through the lower intake manifold. It wouldn't last very long under those conditions.
     
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  7. Waystro

    Waystro No Class

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    Good point I put black rtv on the upper manifold just as added piece of mind for myself
     
  8. Waystro

    Waystro No Class

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    This is all I can get out of her
     
  9. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Few questions, just trying to check all the bases. Please try to answer each of them so we can eliminate possibilities.

    1. Did you ever double check the firing order?

    2. Double check EVERY wiring connector you have either unplugged or could have possibly bumped. Are all the connections on the distributor good and snug?

    3. Have you ever replaced your crank sensor? It's on the timing cover.

    4. Are you getting fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel feed line? Tried fuel pressure test for kicks?

    5. Have you tested for spark yet? It's occasionally kicking but I'd still check to see if you have a consistent strong spark.

    6. Are you able to remove the sensor under the rotor in the distributor? I personally would try swapping that from the old one if all else fails.
     
  10. Waystro

    Waystro No Class

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    Update dizzy was still out of time I got it timed right after putting at tdc she runs!!! Now it is just really rough running and I see a light blue haze
     
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  11. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Get her out and get some miles on it. Might clear up on its own after it gets run.

    Glad you got it! Mine was a royal pain to get going too!
     
  12. Waystro

    Waystro No Class

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    Update. At idle it is running rough enough to feel it inside the cab getting out the engine is shaking. I revved it up and stumbles and falls on its face then clears up for a minute
     
  13. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Still throwing codes? Check them and reset them. Post them up and we'll go from there.

    Just for kicks, try the old distributor cap on the new distributor if you still have it. I've had aftermarket caps cause a misfire before.
     
  14. Waystro

    Waystro No Class

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    I’ll try the old cap.
     
  15. Waystro

    Waystro No Class

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    https://www.youtube.com/upload

    Put the old cap back on it still runs like crap don’t know if the video picked up the shaking. Also that noise is the pulley for the belt. At the last part of video when I put it in drive my foot was all the way to the floor.
     

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