Water separator cleanout and test

[WAID]

After draining the water separator and then playing the "bleed the fuel system every time you start" game on our last camping trip its time to pull out the water separater from the truck. No shortage of muck inside it. I want to try and keep the stock one if I can get it to work. I figured before I put it back in I'd pressure/vacuum test it for leaks, but not sure what I should expect it to hold. Seems like it will hold but only if its in just the right spot, so I'm not too confident in it. Anybody have any thoughts on how much and how long it should hold? Might just end up puting a racor unti or something in instead.

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[Cubey]

After draining the water separator and then playing the "bleed the fuel system every time you start" game on our last camping trip its time to pull out the water separater from the truck. No shortage of muck inside it. I want to try and keep the stock one if I can get it to work. I figured before I put it back in I'd pressure/vacuum test it for leaks, but not sure what I should expect it to hold. Seems like it will hold but only if its in just the right spot, so I'm not too confident in it. Anybody have any thoughts on how much and how long it should hold? Might just end up puting a racor unti or something in instead.

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I have a Racor on my RV because the original W/S was gone. It came off a junk yard Banks turbo'd IDI. I replaced the element with the highest micron (red lettering) since the stock filter is still in line after the Racor.

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[YJMike92]

After draining the water separator and then playing the "bleed the fuel system every time you start" game on our last camping trip its time to pull out the water separater from the truck. No shortage of muck inside it. I want to try and keep the stock one if I can get it to work. I figured before I put it back in I'd pressure/vacuum test it for leaks, but not sure what I should expect it to hold. Seems like it will hold but only if its in just the right spot, so I'm not too confident in it. Anybody have any thoughts on how much and how long it should hold? Might just end up puting a racor unti or something in instead.

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It shouldn't leak at all. If it does replace it.

 

[WAID]

I have a Racor on my RV because the original W/S was gone. It came off a junk yard Banks turbo'd IDI. I replaced the element with the highest micron (red lettering) since the stock filter is still in line after the Racor.

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Do you know which one that is? Do you just swap it when you do the other filter? Flow rate looks like 30 gph for the lift pump, not sure if I can stick with that or if I need to look for the next size up. Looks like I have a few different options from racor and baldwin at least.

 

[IDIoit]

this item is garbage.
delete it, it cannot be serviced, and they dont make them anymore.
upgrade to a better separator

 

[Cubey]

The W/S just got installed a year ago and has maybe 2500 miles on it, so I haven't needed to replace it yet. I got NOS ones off eBay for cheap, so I have a spare on hand since they aren't easily available on the road.

The element I'm using is: https://ph.parker.com/us/en/racor-replacement-filter-element-spin-on/r26p

The head is an old 220/225 series. They still make something similar, if not identical except the part number for the kits. The mid sized filter size I'm running is probably 30gph, based on the newer one kits shown below.

My turbo RV (see sig) seems to perform fine with it. It has a Holley Red epump, mechanical lift pump deleted.

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[Cubey]

Ok no the one I have has a different, no longer made head and bowl.

Furthermore, my R26 series filter is rated 45gph:

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That's curious since the old element was an R26 filter but said it was for 220.

Oh and I just noticed that it recommends being on the suction side of the pump (before the pump) for maximum efficiency. Maybe it hasn't hurt since the max pressure is 7psi and the Holley Red is rated 7psi too. But they say not to put it where I have it, on the pressure side:

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However, my pump has in line filters for each tank to protect the fuel tank selector valve, so it's getting filtered/protected that way.

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Hm, I might want to fix that by running a two long fuel hoses back and forth to have the Racor before the pump. Maybe I'll see about that soon.

The old element it had:

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[71 Highboy]

I have a Racor on my RV because the original W/S was gone. It came off a junk yard Banks turbo'd IDI. I replaced the element with the highest micron (red lettering) since the stock filter is still in line after the Racor.

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I have been using the same Racor F/W separator head for nearly 30 years, but mounted it near the stock filter. It has a small priming hand pump on top, similar to the old caterpillar tractors, and will pull from the tank just by itself. The filters are expensive but worth it. It pulls from the tree way selector valve for the tanks thru a sediment bowl filter under the cab I can easily monitor and clean as required. Fuel exits the separator, and enters the carter electric fuel pump mounted next to it, running at 8 volts from the old coil wire whenever the ignition is on. The carter feeds the stock mechanical pump at a low speed/low pressure. Bleeding thru the Schrader valve is easy peasy. The Racor is to the right, the carter to the left in front of the water filter and stock fuel filter.

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[Cubey]

I have been using the same Racor F/W separator head for nearly 30 years, but mounted it near the stock filter. It has a small priming hand pump on top, similar to the old caterpillar tractors, and will pull from the tank just by itself. The filters are expensive but worth it. It pulls from the tree way selector valve for the tanks thru a sediment bowl filter under the cab I can easily monitor and clean as required. Fuel exits the separator, and enters the carter electric fuel pump mounted next to it, running at 8 volts from the old coil wire whenever the ignition is on. The carter feeds the stock mechanical pump at a low speed/low pressure. Bleeding thru the Schrader valve is easy peasy. The Racor is to the right, the carter to the left in front of the water filter and stock fuel filter.

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I got the two NOS R26P filters (still in their sealed bags) for $10/each on ebay Can't beat that price.

 

[71 Highboy]

I got the two NOS R26P filters (still in their sealed bags) for $10/each on ebay Can't beat that price.

dirt cheap. normally about 27$ each...

 

[Cubey]

dirt cheap. normally about 27$ each...

Cummins Fleetguard FS1247 is $40 online ($50-60 retail) and Napa's FIL3211 version is $45 retail. Thankfully it's not something that needs frequent replacement and I have a spare on hand.

 

[WAID]

Well got all the parts today. Went with a Racor 445R setup with the 30 micron cartridge for prefiltering. It bolts right into the stock holes and is accessible even with the cruise control actuator. It doesn't fit in the cage around the old pump so that got left out. It does add a priming pump and I was able to prime the system without too much trouble, just had to find where I could stand to push the primer while I let the air out of the schrader valve. I do wish I had put both fittings on the passenger side of the header rather than opposite sides but this clears well enough I think and the one piece 90s I bought won't both fit on one side. I might redo that, but have a camping trip this weekend the truck needs to be running for. Its not the cheapest option but it bolts right in.
.
Stock next to new unit.

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New unit installed

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Hiding behind cruise control actuator

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Specs in case anyone is looking. For thosenof you with electric pumps that would put this on the pressure side it looks like this one is rated for 30psi.

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