Waste gate dumping???

[tbirdfiend281]

Update to my thread:

Though initially I believed the turbo cleaning worked (it definitely helped a great deal though!), the problem did not completely go away. It has been back to the same and sometimes worse conditions. With all that I have learned about these creatures since last fall when I purchased it, I have it narrow to (I believe) the FICM. The only other possible is the egr as I have not gotten to the delete stage yet. Is there a possibility that the FICM just needs reprogramming? This seems to be a pretty good sign of a "bad" FICM for the way mine is acting. Though it is only doing it sometimes instead of all the time like a bad FICM. Does anyone know if its possible that mine just needs reprogramming with the newer better programs to get rid of a glitch maybe? Wanna try it but would like feedback if anyone has had this symptom and has fixed it before I spend a lot of money on trial and error. Pretty sure the repramming would do it myself, but if the FICM needs to be replaced and not just reprogammed I would hate to spend a lot of money programming and then spend it on a new FICM and programming because the FICM was actually failing.

It is not a failed ficm.

Failed FICM's generally come up with these things going on.

1. cylinder misfire codes, usually more then 2 cylinders
2.IDM/FICM relay fault code
3. Heavy black smoke, lack of power and generally not being to rev the truck at all

I am 99% sure it is not your ficm, and thinking your ficm is failed is not following the correct diagnostic procedures, you have not ruled out the other items as known good.

Cleaning a turbo, will not always fix a turbo, your turbo could still be bad. Your EGR valve could be sticking from soot build up, or poor valve performance from the electrical side of the valve.

Is the truck still chugging in the intake? Can you walk me threw how you cleaned your turbo? You and I only live 2.5 hours away from each other, maybe we need to meet one time in the middle and have lunch, and then diag your truck super quickly.

My final word is, in all the years of fixing 6.0 professional, and currently fixing VT365s, and DT's (witch use the same IDM/FICM) having a failed ficm is most likely not your problem. Also, with the so many different programs that ford tried in there 6.0s to save the injectors no single program ever seemed to have a glitch that caused the truck to run incorrectly.

 

[tbirdfiend281]

yes, Mad Turbo Werks actually have/had a turbo called the durastroke turbo. was a modded LB7 VGT iirc for use with the 6.0l. that is all i know about it though. i would say to stick with the 6.0l turbo though. now that you cleaned it, give it regular itallian tune ups and you will be good.

LB7 had a wastegated turbo. I am not sure what years the Dmax got the VGT, but I think it was with the 06 LLY LBZ trucks.

 

[camo85]

I'm sure by what my 6.0 has been doing that the FICM is the problem. The injector issues I have seen (and that friends and my employer have had) tell me that it is not the same problem but similar. I am 99.9 percent sure that the FICM is the cause!! Just not sure if I want to spend all the money to reprogram the FICM part of the system just to find out that I have to spend double that to replace it because it was failing. Stupid computer crap.... these diesels are so simple and they have to go and mess them up with computer stuff (starting to really miss my old 6.9idi a lot right now)!

 

[camo85]

Tbird.... yeah we should chat! Send me a pm and I'll let u know what's been going on. Or I can call u in person(that's easier in this case then typing what's going on and my findings). I'm curtain its a FICM problem but not a "bad" FICM problem .... just trying to get some verification before making a mistake and spending money on something I don't need!

 

[tbirdfiend281]

Thinking its the FICM is a mistake. It is not the FICM. It is either going to be your EGR valve, or your turbo is failed. Your injector problems are in a different category of diagnostics. We can def chat, and I can def get your 6.0 running correctly.

 

[camo85]

It is not a failed ficm.

Failed FICM's generally come up with these things going on.

1. cylinder misfire codes, usually more then 2 cylinders
2.IDM/FICM relay fault code
3. Heavy black smoke, lack of power and generally not being to rev the truck at all

I am 99% sure it is not your ficm, and thinking your ficm is failed is not following the correct diagnostic procedures, you have not ruled out the other items as known good.

Cleaning a turbo, will not always fix a turbo, your turbo could still be bad. Your EGR valve could be sticking from soot build up, or poor valve performance from the electrical side of the valve.

Is the truck still chugging in the intake? Can you walk me threw how you cleaned your turbo? You and I only live 2.5 hours away from each other, maybe we need to meet one time in the middle and have lunch, and then diag your truck super quickly.

My final word is, in all the years of fixing 6.0 professional, and currently fixing VT365s, and DT's (witch use the same IDM/FICM) having a failed ficm is most likely not your problem. Also, with the so many different programs that ford tried in there 6.0s to save the injectors no single program ever seemed to have a glitch that caused the truck to run incorrectly.

Cleaning my turbo was following the link '94IDIturbo7.3 posted as a reply in the beginning of this thread. I also removed the egr valve, cleaned and inspected (I know this doesn't mean that it can't be failing). I guess what I've read about egr deletes are not true, that they can be unplugged and not make any difference in performance? Just asking cause I've heard of that as a temporary fix until doing a delete or even just getting a dummy sensor to replace it with. The "chugging" happens very seldom and does so at very random times... sometimes just warmed up, sometimes after been driving for a long time, sometimes (but very seldom) under load hauling, and sometimes normal driving. Have not had one time that it has been consist ant in doing this. For instance... we drove it to outer banks NC in June, it didn't do it at all the whole trip except one time after we arrived on the island after the 12-14 hour drive down, that's was it. Sometimes when it does it the boost fluctuates before hand, you can hear the turbo spooling up and down slightly. I haven't noticed if it does this every time, but I know it is not how it normally spools its usually very quick and smooth whenever it is not acting up which is most all of the time. Usually when it acts up it just sputters two or three times and that's it, sometimes when it very rarely has a bad one it will loose almost all power after the sputter "chug" and when it pops back to normal (which is usually within seconds, most was maybe 5) it will cough out some white smoke and will be gone and running fine again.

 

[tbirdfiend281]

If the chugging was created by your EGR valve, 9 time out of 10 it is accompanied with black smoke. Having the white smoke makes me still think turbo, but again could be either or.

Oddly enough I have had customers who have simply unplugged the EGR valve and not had a code, witch is super weird, but most likely if you unplugged the EGR valve you would have a check engine light on, witch would keep the truck in open loop mode pretty much all the time, witch would derate the performance slightly, it might also bring down the miles per gallon to. So best bet, unplug it, but if possible, maybe go with a tuner with a fuel mileage tune, if you aren't looking to gain power in the truck.

 

[FordGuy100]

From what I gather the 03-04 trucks won't throw a CEL with an unplugged EGR, but the 05-07 trucks will.

 

[boxathey]

From what I gather the 03-04 trucks won't throw a CEL with an unplugged EGR, but the 05-07 trucks will.

I have an egr delete on my 04. It won't throw the light on but if I scan it, it does give me two egr command codes (I believe its 2 ). I ended up putting the egr valve back in to appear that it is functioning but the block off plate is still attached to the bottom side of the intake so nothing is really happening

 

[tbirdfiend281]

From what I gather the 03-04 trucks won't throw a CEL with an unplugged EGR, but the 05-07 trucks will.

it depends on the 03-04 trucks, it is not all of them. I know all 05-07 truck will throw the code when the EGR is unplugged.

 

[tbirdfiend281]

I have an egr delete on my 04. It won't throw the light on but if I scan it, it does give me two egr command codes (I believe its 2 ). I ended up putting the egr valve back in to appear that it is functioning but the block off plate is still attached to the bottom side of the intake so nothing is really happening

thats a slick idea. I would still get a tune with no EGR valve

 

[camo85]

If the chugging was created by your EGR valve, 9 time out of 10 it is accompanied with black smoke. Having the white smoke makes me still think turbo, but again could be either or.

Oddly enough I have had customers who have simply unplugged the EGR valve and not had a code, witch is super weird, but most likely if you unplugged the EGR valve you would have a check engine light on, witch would keep the truck in open loop mode pretty much all the time, witch would derate the performance slightly, it might also bring down the miles per gallon to. So best bet, unplug it, but if possible, maybe go with a tuner with a fuel mileage tune, if you aren't looking to gain power in the truck.

So far.... unplugging the egr has seemed to have fixed the problem (though I won't be convinced until I run it for at least two weeks to see if it has stopped). It seems to run much much better "cold", and hasn't had a hick up yet in the last two days. Sorry for not believing you tbird, I just can't fathem how a stupid egr valve can cause the problems it does. I didn't realize I contradicted you in my one post until now either... I didn't meen to be a **** and say the I was 99.9% sure it was the ficm when you said you were 99% sure it wasn't.... it must not have registered that you said that in the post. I didn't say that just to be a jerk, I just missed it somehow.

Soooooo.... I guess an egr delete system is in my near future now. Because I definitely don't like the idea running it long term with the egr unplugged and the egr intake still funtionable, I'm sure short term its OK but long term maybe not so much.

And btw, my '04 does not throw the engine light with it unhooked if anyone was wondering . It might be throwing codes since I am without a scanner yet at this point, but no CEL.

 

[tbirdfiend281]

No worries, I wasn't to worried about it. EGR deletes arent to bad to install either, I would recommend them highly.

 

[camo85]

No worries, I wasn't to worried about it. EGR deletes arent to bad to install either, I would recommend them highly.

Yes that has been in the plans since our purchasing of the truck! Will it hurt to run with my egr unplugged for a little? Hope to do the delete soon... but have just purchased a new home, and winter is soon to be creeping in, so don't know exactley how soon soon is. Don't really want to waste the money on a new egr valve when I plan to do a delete by spring or hopefully sooner, but at the same time I don't want to chance of possible damage to the head gaskets either!!! Is there any possibility of iminate permanent damage with having it unplugged???

 

[tbirdfiend281]

Yes that has been in the plans since our purchasing of the truck! Will it hurt to run with my egr unplugged for a little? Hope to do the delete soon... but have just purchased a new home, and winter is soon to be creeping in, so don't know exactley how soon soon is. Don't really want to waste the money on a new egr valve when I plan to do a delete by spring or hopefully sooner, but at the same time I don't want to chance of possible damage to the head gaskets either!!! Is there any possibility of iminate permanent damage with having it unplugged???

no having it unplugged prevents damage. Though not as bullet proof as a full delete, it is not going to actuate the EGR valve, witch means less pressure in the EGR cooler, witch means the EGR cooler has less chance of failing and putting pressure on your cooling system, witch means your head gaskets most likely wont pop.