Vacuum Pump Replacement

[gabbyr100rs]

Gents,

I managed to get the old pump out and the new one in.

In the process, I discovered that the two jaw pullers that I have were not up to the job (jaws too thick to get behind the lip on the pulley) of getting the pully off, and since all the parts stores were closed for New Year's Day (you know where this is going, right??) I got out my heat gun, got the pully really hot and drove the old pump shaft out of the pully since I did not need the old pump for a core. Old pump now good for a trot line sinker......

Unfortunately, in getting the pully off, I must not have supported it evenly enough during the removal process, and it now has a definate wobble during operation when mounted on the new pump. Putting the pulley back on just took the right size and length bolt and a fender washer to pull the pully back onto the pump shaft--no "love taps" with the BFH. My '91, as you prolly know, does not have the serpentine belt, and the vac pump belt runs off the alternator pulley.

I am afraid that unwanted vibration caused by the out-of-true pully will bring my new vacuum pump and drive belt to early graves . It isn't making any racket, the pulley is just out of true and therefore wobbles. That said, my question is what kind of puller or tool is required to get the pulley off without destroying the pump, and where is a good place to access same?? I expect to have to order a new "non-wobbler" pully from the Ferd store.

After all this to cure an intermittant brake warning light, the brake warning light may have been caused by the silly switch that is mounted on my parking brake assembly rather than a dying vac pump. The light came on after the pump change, and I started messing with the switch,cycling it up and down by hand, and it went out and stayed out. After 150K, the old pump was due for a swap anyway--taking that position makes me feel better about the money and effort anyway. I think my brakes are a bit more responsive--I recon I'm getting more vacuum out of the new pump. I suppose one of our members reading this is going to point to his '86 model with 487,000 miles still running happily on the original vac pump, though......

Thanks again to the collective font of all IDI knowledge. Good to be an OB member.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

The pulley is removed with a "Power steering pump pulley puller". Any attempt to use a jaw puller will result in a ruined pulley.

The power steering puller has a split sleeve that grabs in the groove towards the middle of the pulley.

 

[gabbyr100rs]

Thanks!

Supporting the hot pulley between vise jaws and driving the old shaft out also "results in a ruined pulley".

Will get a power steering pump pulley puller tomorrow and do it right. Your description of the split jaws that fit behind the groove around the front of the pulley hub is right on the money.

Thanks!!

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Many years ago, I installed vacuum gauges on both my vacuum pumps.

Since then, I haven't replaced a pump.

I believe many pumps are prematurely blamed for brake problems and replaced unnecessarily.

Don't discard the old pump as they are rebuildable and the diaphragms are pretty much standard on all vacuum pumps, including those on the Dodge/Cummins 89-93 year models, and most all vacuum-over-hydraulic trailer brake kits.

 

[towcat]

there's actually a puller for the vac pump pulley.
blue point(snap-on) p/n sp448

 

[gabbyr100rs]

Just ordered the blue point puller on line. Looks like it might work for other pulleys on the truck as well.

Will order up a new vac pump pulley tomorrow am from the Ferd house. Also a new switch at the parking brake. My parking brake lever is coming up all the wayto the stop--the switch is just getting cranky with age and use--kind of like me!! .

I fear that my old pump is historical 'cept as a trot line anchor--pounding on the shaft to drive the old pump out of the heated pulley resulted in a rather siezed-up unit--the shaft no longer wants to turn. I promise not to do that again....

Maybe I should ask these questions before I launch off on my next IDI repair quest????? Really will save me $$$ and headaches.

 

[Chuckdiesel]

well im new to the awsome world of idi but i also just replaced my vaccum pump. Of course the new one did not come with a pully and my buddy and i were in a hurry (just bought the truck an hour ago and was goin on a hour and a half drive) so we just took the pump part off the new one and out it on the old pully half and it works fine. took about 20 min and we were off with plenty of break pressure.

 

[dbensen]

The last time I tried to remove one it would not let go. I even brougt it to the dealer where I purchased the pump and the tech was afraid of destroying his tool. I ended up buying a new pully, which they had in stock. I kind of thought they were just trying to move something sitting on the shelf but after buying the right tool, I too found that there was no way that pulley was coming off. I think the pulley was around $19.00.

Doug
'86 F-250 4x4
'89 E-250 ATS turbo

 

[Mr_Roboto]

well im new to the awsome world of idi but i also just replaced my vaccum pump. Of course the new one did not come with a pully and my buddy and i were in a hurry (just bought the truck an hour ago and was goin on a hour and a half drive) so we just took the pump part off the new one and out it on the old pully half and it works fine. took about 20 min and we were off with plenty of break pressure.

If it's only the diaphram that's bad, that will work. However there are ball bearings in the lower half that go bad too. I did the same thing as you when I bought a good used pump and it had the wrong bolt holes. A month later the bearings on my original lower half seized up....

 

[gabbyr100rs]

Pulleys are now up to $40 at my local Ferd dealer, special order item only----I got my old one off with about 15 minutes of heat gun set on 1000 degrees, then drove the shaft out--ruined the old pump big time, as well as knocking the pulley out of true (didn't evenly support the back side).

Replacement pulley to be picked up tomorrow. When my removal tool comes in, I will probably put some heat on the pulley to make it easier to pull off without overloading my nifty new tool.

I tried today to find a replacement parking brake switch (mounts on the parking brake lever support). Ferd parts sez it is obsolete (no got), and NAPA does not have a listing. Where have you gents been able to locate a replacement?? The old one does not reliably shut off the dash "brake" light. If a replacement cannot be sourced, what about simply disabling that switch, since it only relates to the parking brake--I think I can remember that item, and I am the only one that drives the truck.

Thanks again.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

No need to heat the pulley to remove it. It comes off no problem with the right tool. And applying heat to the (good) vacuum pump is likely a bad idea.

You can just pull the electrical connector off the brake pedal switch and the light is gone forever. Just for kicks spray it down with a little penetrating oil and see if it frees up first. It's a NO (Normally Open) switch, it's just sticking closed.

 

[icanfixall]

If you end up removing it just take it to a pick-a-part wrecking yard. Then go looking at the big Lincolns and Mercs. You would be surprised how many parts cross over between these cars and trucks. Banks broke one line off my vacuum manifold and Ford does not carry it anymore. So I "found" several Mercurys and Lincolns have the same manifold. Paid for one and found 2 in my pockets.... When I got home....

 

[Agnem]

The parking brake "switch" is so simple, I can't see it ever going bad. At least it was on the earlier trucks. Maybe you just need to give it a good cleaning. It is not an enclosed type.

 

[gabbyr100rs]

Got the pulley from Ferd.

Awaiting the nifty puller to show up via brown truck. Will avoid the heat gun this time--prolly would not do the front seal on the good pump a bit of good. Thanks for that observation. I do not want/need to forkle this rather simple task up in yet another creative way.

Will try cleaning up the parking brake switch and tightening the cables after adjusting up the rear shoes. Parking brake pedal comes all the way up and stays there--but not as tightly as before. Parking brake pedal does not go quite to the floor. I think I read a post hereabouts that it should bottom out about half way down if the rear shoes are properly adjusted with cables in good order.

Older full size Fords/Mercs/Lincolns seem to use the very same parking brake levers and releases as our trucks. I see them most every day while doing emissions testing . Wouldn't surprise me to find the same switch under there. I'll shine a light under the dash of the next semi-clean one that rolls into the shop. You wouldn't believe the stuff that resides in/on some people's floorboards....

Thanks for that advise!

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Man, I wouldn't be surprised at what is in people's cars. I have to hold my breath sometimes when getting mileage off of cars. I'll sometimes find rotting food when getting people's spare tires out. Yuck!