Using existing factory paint as base coat?

[Cruiseomatic]

Once I get a core and cab, I'm starting to paint. I tested a fender for current paint "health" and its very good. I was wondering if I can wash and clean the current paint and spray on it? Clean as in removing oxidation, dirt, contaminates, etc... And spray etching primer then sealer with top coat of paint. Only 3 panels need taken to steel and total recoat.
What are your thoughts?

 

[IDIoit]

do it all, or don't do it at all... if your going for nice.
if youre going to beat it and don't really care and want it presentable,
sand and spray

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Not beat it, But if it gets scratched and I know it will with people how they are, I don't want to lose my **** when it happens and freak about what it'll take to fix.

 

[IDIoit]

100 bux a gallon after sanding to bare, 3-4 coats of good poly primer, and too many hours to count.
ive used 3 gallons of primer, and 2 gallons of acrylic enamel

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[Cruiseomatic]

Damn...Thats way more that I was planning on doing. Kinda figured since the stock paint and primer is still so good, use it as the base and spray bomb it. Not trying to impress anyone at shows or go for glossy new showroom but more of good looking, durable, and easy to fix when scratched. Going down to bare, and doing all that amount of work will be way over kill for me and probably yield the same durability.

 

[laserjock]

I would not spray bomb a vehicle unless I really didn't care or didn't have any other option. If you are not real picky about color, here is what I would do before I decided to rattle can it.

Clean it really well removing any loose paint. Get a wax and grease remover that is not solvent based because that will soften the paint. Get a water based one. We used to wipe down with laquer thinner in the old days but a dedicated wax and grease remover would be better. Do this with nitrile gloves so you don't put oils back on by touching it. You have to get any fingerprints, wax, dirt, oil etc. off the surface for the paint to stick. Go get a gallon of rustoleum acid etch primer, gallon of TSC implement paint in the color you choose and get 2 cans of their thinner and 1 can of their hardener. Head over to horrible freight and pick up a purple gun and some filters. Thin the primer the same ratio as the TSC primer calls for. I say use the rustoleum because I have had better luck with it than the TSC gallon. The TSC gallon stuff just does not want to dry for some reason. Mix the TSC stuff per the directions. I have had good luck over catalyzing by 50% but I don't know what the long term benefit/detriment of that would be. I have also use the TSC catalyst in Rustoleum truck and implement paint. It seems to work but I can't confirm or endorse that as a better alternative.

Final result would be that you will have a paint job for around $200 in materials that would be more durable than a rattle can because it is catalyzed. Wait a couple months and wax it. Keep it waxed and it probably won't fade too bad. The stuff shoots nice and if you take your time, you can make a pretty good looking job of it. I would pick a lighter color. The matte black I put on my frame chalked up a little bit sitting out over a years time with no protection but it's still solid.

There was a guy on here that did a dually in red and crèam two tone and it looked really good. Don't know how well it's holding up but it looked really good once he buffed it out.

Those are my thoughts.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

I really have no other option. I have a 33 gallon craftsman 'pro" air compressor but it keeps tripping the breaker after 15-ish psi. And for this paint job, I don't want to be scared of it getting nicked or scratched. Hell, I just found 3 cabs close to me.....The idiots lkq, will not sell them. they consider it part of the chassis and crush them instead.

 

[teletech]

I'm with the fellow above, a cheap HF gun works far better than rattle cans and a catalyzed paint will wear far better.
Wear a proper respirator and cover your skin working with 2-component paint, heck, do it with any paint and you'll live a lot longer.
Check Craigslist for a cheap compressor and sell it when you are done if it's a matter of having enough air.

If you lightly scuff and carefully clean the factory paint, your odds of having new paint stick to it directly are pretty good, likely as good as rattle-can primer. A *good* primer will make those odds far better.

FWIW, the P-168 instructions from PPG state factory paint is an acceptable base for their old single-stage (Concept) line. P-175 says you can use PPG Deltorn (BC/CC) over factory paint as well.

 

[Clb]

Without GOOD equipment, just shoot it,
But what idiot said.
The base is critical for a seamless color match.
You most likely need more compressor, definitely need more electricity!
start\stop on psi will kill it!
I have well over $200.00 mat. In the harley frame I did back in the early 2000's

 

[teletech]

Oh, and only use etch prime on bare metal is what I've read/heard. Old paint uses (any) other prime but urethane sealer should be about the best tie-coat.