Turbo talk

[kent01]

I met a guy that had a 6.9 in a 4 speed 3/4 ton pickup, it had a hypermax turbo set up with a wicked wheel swapped out. The pump and injectors were 120cc. I drove it myself, and it was very similar to driving a N14 Cummins in a class 8 truck. You could roll on the throttle going through the gears and it would spool 25 psi boost effertlessly. It was really fun to drive. But... You would not want to put it to work pulling a heavy load like a toy hauler or boat without a charge air cooler and a bigger radiator. I don't know if it was studded it not. But wow, it was really seat of the pants powerful.

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[ISPKI]

As far as up-sizing the 6.9 head bolts, the problem is simply drilling the hole... straight. Yes, if you have a mill big enough, it would be easy, but that's expensive. The goal, therefor, would be to come up with a way to do it with a small drill press or hand-drill.

One word, mag drill. The right mag drill can put a straight hole on just about anything so long as you can fixture it creatively. I converted a 460 zf5 to the 7.3idi bolt pattern, used a .25"steel plate bolted to the bellhousing. Lined up the drill using gauge pins.

 

[ISPKI]

See I'm not looking for huge power, my truck is a log hauler, that's it, it's never going to be fast I just want it to pull stuff good. Eventually I'd like to tow cars with it but I honestly think it could already handle most cars reasonably well. I'm looking to make a little more power, entirely low end, max at 10psi. I don't want to make so much pressure that I need to do head studs and gaskets and a pump and injectors etc etc.

When those items start to go and need replacing, I will look at getting higher performance replacements.

 

[Thewespaul]

Talk is cheap bro, horsepower...
Not so much. I had a long conversation with R&D on this subject, he is one of the most knowledgeable guys out there on building Idi engines, he has one that's up in the 400 how range. And it took a Lot to get it there. Have you looked up the prices of his parts??? While they are reasonable for the quality of the components, it's in no way cheap. You will never get an honest 250 HP to the ground with a stock turbo and a 110 pump. It takes a serious parts list to get there.
Pump, injectors, cam, a good turbo,degree the cam (advanced)
Manifolds,intake and exhaust, charge air cooler, valve springs and retainers etc. Studs for the heads which are over 500$. Then the stock rods are questionable at that power level.
A set of reworked power stroke rods will fixtures that with machine work.
Another 600$. Chaching. His turbo kit is $3999. It's all there, but you still have machine work and labor to add up.on top of the required parts list.
I am considering this set up for my 88 7.3. parts alone are over 7K. My point is this, for that kind of money a guy can buy a 6.0 delete the egr, add some tuning, and have way more power for the same investment.
If you doubt my word call R&D yourself. Have a realistic conversation with the man that has done all the real world testing and development of IDI performance.
Not a shade tree hotrodder.
He has all the Dyno results from years of experience and failures.

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Have you built one of these engines to make good power? It sounds like you are relying on what a salesman told you need to buy to get to a certain power level and the parts list you listed above is totally unnecessary.

Do some research in the subject, Justin put together an engine that was a $150 Craigslist engine that got rings, cam pump injectors studs and turbo. He claimed to have 2k into it and it made over 400 hp. So if he’s saying you need to drop 7k he’s kinda contradicting himself there, or just trying to sell you product, which is his job.

 

[Macrobb]

See I'm not looking for huge power, my truck is a log hauler, that's it, it's never going to be fast I just want it to pull stuff good. Eventually I'd like to tow cars with it but I honestly think it could already handle most cars reasonably well. I'm looking to make a little more power, entirely low end, max at 10psi. I don't want to make so much pressure that I need to do head studs and gaskets and a pump and injectors etc etc.

When those items start to go and need replacing, I will look at getting higher performance replacements.

Honestly, torque = pressure. Low end power is what's going to put the most strain on the motor, because it is divided among less combustion events(more fuel per event).
Just learn to use the high end more effectively(2200-3K) and downshift for more power. If your timing is good, the upper end should feel good and have plenty of power, not feel like it's going to blow up.
Remember, these motors are designed for speed... at least up to 3k speed, and can handle doing it indefinately.

Also, in an IDI, more HP made=more torque, because the revs are limited. People hage trouble with this.

 

[ISPKI]

Honestly, torque = pressure. Low end power is what's going to put the most strain on the motor, because it is divided among less combustion events(more fuel per event).
Just learn to use the high end more effectively(2200-3K) and downshift for more power. If your timing is good, the upper end should feel good and have plenty of power, not feel like it's going to blow up.
Remember, these motors are designed for speed... at least up to 3k speed, and can handle doing it indefinately.

Also, in an IDI, more HP made=more torque, because the revs are limited. People hage trouble with this.

I understand that, what I meant was that I'm not trying to put 250+hp or 500+ft lbs to the road. I'm just looking for a mild budget turbo build, if I can make around 200whp, and maybe a little over 400ftlbs, I'd be more than happy for now.

 

[FordGuy100]

Exactly. Low RPM high torque situations are the hardest thing on the bottom end besides lack of maintenance. This is why lugging an engine is a bad thing, and something no one should ever do.

 

[FordGuy100]

I understand that, what I meant was that I'm not trying to put 250+hp or 500+ft lbs to the road. I'm just looking for a mild budget turbo build, if I can make around 200whp, and maybe a little over 400ftlbs, I'd be more than happy for now.

That's a dyno proven setup. 093 turbo, pump maxed, and you are there.

 

[ISPKI]

Anyone have specs on the ATS 093 turbo? Cfm, a/r?

 

[FordGuy100]

Watch the video to see the 093 specs vs Justin's Stage 1 drop in

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[david85]

Watch the video to see the 093 specs vs Justin's Stage 1 drop in

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Interesting. From what he's showing, the R&D exhaust side is still smaller than the 088, but larger than the 093.

088: 73/64

R&D: 70/62

093: 64/56 (thought it was 65/56, but close enough)

 

[kent01]

I have to agree on keeping the recs up when working it. It will live longer.a mild turbo setup will make it live longer,And use less fuel doing it.

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[ISPKI]

Interesting, this Is what I dug up on the hx40.

Holset HX40 Super 40 Turbo Specs:60mm x 86mm Billet Compressor Wheel. 64mm x 76mm 10 Blade Turbine Wheel

 

[Thewespaul]

Interesting, this Is what I dug up on the hx40.

Holset HX40 Super 40 Turbo Specs:60mm x 86mm Billet Compressor Wheel. 64mm x 76mm 10 Blade Turbine Wheel

Hx40's largest comp wheel is a 60/86, but can vary from 58/83 and on. They also come in three different blade counts. The turbine wheel is smaller than the tp38 turbo that comes factory on the stroke at 76/64 compared to the 76.5/68 on the tp38.

 

[03wr250f]

7.3s came with 1/2” head bolts from the factory. If you’re going to upgrade to a different thread size on a 6.9 then doesn’t make sense to go with anything other than the 7.3’s thread. Already been proven that you don’t need to decompress these engines and doing so is very detrimental to their performance. You’re comparing apples to oranges here

The only thing with this, and this is from justin and i have not looked into it one bit, but there is not enough meat left in the block to just go to 1/2'' studs, and also the thought is why not go 9/16 and never worry about any problems ever ?

and @ISPKI If you want a good proven towing setup that is reliable, find an ats 093 kit, and intercool it, then adjust the wastegate to 10-12 psi and be done with it, as others have said quit reinventing the wheel and use what is already out there. I have bought two 093 kits for under $400 and I see them commonly go for under $700