Turbo IDI won't start after engine swap

[kickdheney]

IDIoit from first glance the engine looks solid I talked to the PO and he had the engine remanufactured at motorworks HI Tech engines in spokane 18000 miles ago. I called Motorworks with the serial number and they said the engine had a full rebuild to factory spec. This rebuild took place around 10 years ago. I think the engine has been sitting for about a year and a half. I thought i heard a metal chirping as well. Ill take the belts off and see what that does. I can see that the vacuum pump pully looks bent. I moved and cleaned the passenger ground and it seems to be starting up faster. Does this look and sound about right for starter motor speed. Ill take the belts off next and post a video

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[Thewespaul]

Getting better, clean up the drivers side ground as well. That vacuum pump pulley looks like its not on the shaft straight

 

[genscripter]

I hope that metal tinging is just your fan brushing the fan shroud. But that does sound disconcerting.

If it doesn't turn over with your increased starter speed, I'd be worried that you are not getting fuel to the injectors. That speed should fire it up. Crack ( "crack" = unscrew a few threads) a few injector lines on top of the injectors and see if fuel is dribbling out of the ends of the lines.

 

[kickdheney]

I've cracked open all 8 fuel lines and I haven't been able to get any fuel to come out after about 5 to 8 cranks at 15 to 20 seconds new filter is full of fuel. The old one didn't look good

 

[Thewespaul]

Very good chance that is because the cranking speed is too low. Take the glowplugs out and spin it over till you have fuel at the injectors.

 

[kickdheney]

Turned the engine over 10 times for about 15 to 20 secs without any glow plugs still not seeing fuel. Should i be seeing fuel coming out of the glow plugs?

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[Thewespaul]

You should be cranking with the injector lines loose to see fuel

 

[genscripter]

Basically, if you don't have fuel coming out of the injector lines, then you have air in the IP and injector lines. Since the injectors need 100's of PSI to pop the injector and spray, the air acts like a buffer so it never reaches the desired pressure. Without that pressure, the air will never be purged out, so the fuel never reaches the injector. You need to crack all the injector lines, and crank the engine until you see seepage and dribbling coming from the ends of the injector lines. As they dribble, tighten them back down. Those lines are now "purged." The more lines you successfully purge, the more likely the beast will awaken. After about 5 lines, it'll start to try to turn over, and when it does, tighten the rest of the cracked lines as quickly as possible to limit the mess.

Also, while you are cranking and purging, you should be giving this full throttle, otherwise it'll take forever to purge. The IP reservoir has to fill up and that takes at least a pint of diesel, not to mention if your diesel filter was sucked dry too. That's a lot of air to push thru the system, just to get the IP ready to push the fuel thru the injector lines.

You should be examining your fuel situation. Take care of the basics first:
1.) Put fuel in BOTH tanks. If your gauges say you have fuel, don't trust them and put in 2-3 more gallons anyway in EACH.
2.) check the condition of your selector valve
3.) Is the lift pump pushing fuel to the diesel filter
4.) Is there fuel spraying out of the diesel filter schrader valve when cranking?
5.) how old is your diesel filter

If any of these is not working, then the cracking process is useless because you are not even getting fuel to the IP anyway.

 

[kickdheney]

Im putting 3 gallons in. Filter is brand new and full of fuel I've checked it twice since I've started Priming and its been Full Each Time. Fuel Is Not Spilling out of the Schrader valve When Cranking. How can I check the lift pump and the selector valve

 

[kickdheney]

On you mean tank selector. I only have one tank.

 

[genscripter]

hmmm. if nothing is coming out of the schrader valve, that mean one of the following:

no fuel in the tank
fuel pick up is busted
the fuel lines are clogged somehow
the lift pump isn't pumping.

If the fuel pickup in the tank is busted, that is usually resolved by adding more fuel. The "cone of failure" will bust off, and not reach the last 1/4 tank of fuel in the vessel, even though our gauge shows enough fuel. By adding more fuel, the middle of the fuel pickup become the de facto end of the pickup, and it will reach enough fuel. I wrote a bunch about it on my blog a while back.

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Let's assume your fuel pick up if fine and you have enough fuel residing in the tank. You need to check if your lift pump is getting fuel. I usually do this by disconnecting the fuel line leading up to the lift pump, and connecting a typical brake-line bleeder. If I'm able to suck fuel up to the Lift Pump with very little resistance, then I know the pump is getting fuel.

If the lift pump is getting fuel, but nothing is making it to the diesel filter schrader valve, then that usually means the lift pump is weak. I personally swapped out my lift pump years ago because it's much easier to do all this with an e-pump. Instead of cranking, I just flip on the e-pump, and wait for the air to be purged from my schrader valve.

But you definitely need to figure out why your schrader valve isn't getting fuel first before cracking the injector lines. There is the remove posibility that your schrader valve is malfunctioning as well. But if you did replace or open your diesel filter recently, then you might have introduced a decent amount of air into your IP which lead to the air in the lines, and so on. Always refill the diesel filter with diesel so that there is less air that needs to be purged, if you didn't do that.

 

[genscripter]

On you mean tank selector. I only have one tank.

My bad. I always assume all us IDI guys have a dual tank system. No selector valve means one less thing to worry about. One time, long ago, I had a valve stick to one side no matter what I had it set to. I couldn't figure out what the hell was going on. One tank was empty and the other was full. I had it set to the full tank (not knowing that the valve was stuck to the empty tank) and no matter how hard I cranked it, the schrader valve wouldn't spray a drop.

Eventually I figured out the valve wasn't moving, but since your system is a single tank, you can ignore that in my diagnosis.

 

[kickdheney]

Okay sounds good I'll start looking at the lift pump now see what I can figure out try and get some fuel up to that Schrader valve. Then I'll start bleeding the lines. It sounds to me like an electric pump is the way to go I'm sure there's a write up somewhere. Might have to look into. I've drained four different 810 CCA batteries trying to Prime this thing anybody have any suggestions on setting up a safe auxiliary power source so that I don't have to keep these batteries? I appreciate all the help everybody.

 

[genscripter]

Holy balls! That's a lot of batteries. If you are doing this kind of cranking, the best course of action is to have a bigger battery charger (with jump start capability). This will let you start the beast with your garage AC power, instead of relying on the batteries alone. I bought this years ago.... it's cheap, but for a home-mechanic, it'll do: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RTJOQ6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's the link to the e-pump swap: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/...th-a-facet-duralift-electric-fuel-pump.54496/ There is a contingency of IDI guys that prefer the mech lift pumps, because since they pump off the camshaft, the RPM's fo the engine will increase flow. The e-pump is just constant flow, it doesn't adjust with performance. I personally am willing to sacrifice that, because the fact it eliminates the problems with the lift pump and it's appertenances, it better for me. And as long as you get a decent psi rated e-pump (7-9 or 9-11.5), then you'll always have enough fuel pressure to handle any RPM. I'd rather have a setup that makes my van easier to work on, rather than have slightly better fuel pressure and flow at higher RPM's. But I'm just telling you both sides of the issue. You can decide on your own.

 

[79jasper]

Obviously the problem is elsewhere. Nothing just cranking will fix.

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