I can't seem to win one right now! My other 6.9, 1986, I started up this morning after about 10 seconds of idling it died like somebody hit a kill switch or turn the key off. I pop the hood because smoke was pouring out from behind the air intake right near the glow plug controller. I'm assuming I popped a glow plug control here? I didn't realize that doing that could shut the entire truck off?
Truck shut off after start up with electrical smoke
- Thread starter Dodonne2
- Start date
Glow plugs are fried the housings are melted on to the plugs. Also see the uploaded pictures.
Where do I begin? I still have 12v at starter and alternator. It fried other wires though as you can see in the pics.
Where do I begin? I still have 12v at starter and alternator. It fried other wires though as you can see in the pics.
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This, (in green), is a fusible link. Probably saved your bacon to some extent.
On the top of your IP, there are two electrical connections. (Drivers side of the IP, not the throttle side.)
The connection closest to the radiator, is the fuel shutoff solenoid. Provide power directly to that, and you should be able to drive the truck.
Don't forget to disconnect that power, when you shut the truck back off.
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On the top of your IP, there are two electrical connections. (Drivers side of the IP, not the throttle side.)
The connection closest to the radiator, is the fuel shutoff solenoid. Provide power directly to that, and you should be able to drive the truck.
Don't forget to disconnect that power, when you shut the truck back off.
bbjordan
Snow Monkey
It won't shut off until you disconnect that jumper.
Starting fluid/ether can be your friend here for cold weather starting. It just needs a sniff. While it's cranking, you just need to give it a 1 - 2 second spray. Just don't over do it like Zip Ties & Bias Plies, and you'll be minty.
If you have the old style Glow Plug Controller, they are notorious for failing in the open position. You might have a bunch of burnt up GPs.
You can disconnect the connector to the GPC and everything will still work ok, except the GPs (after you fix the boogered wiring). You can rig up a manual push button system to bypass the GPC. I and others have done it.
This might help you:
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
A fusible link was my first thought when I read this. It sounds like it may be time for a push button for your glow plugs.
Which type of controller is this? See picture
I ran a wire directly from the passenger battery to the IP pump electrical prong closest to the radiator. Side note, it ran connected to the prong closest to the driver, just with a long slow idle down in between gears when shifting the 5 speed manual sd42 tranny. I have no since read the comments and attached the battery supplied wire to the prong closest to the radiator. It runs fine now but wont shut off unless I pull the wire. Thanks for the heads up there.
Glow plug connective caps are melted so I assume the whole system fried. I will keep driving it as is until I can track one down. I have read on a forum that the 6.0 harness with new zd9 Glow plugs will work in the 6.9 system. The only splicing is bringing the 4 wires down into 1 in order to run back to the GPC. Is this true? If so it can save a lot if money. I assume my glow pmugs are fried. They are motorcraft I know that. Any trick to getting them out without cracking the tips off in the head?
I ran a wire directly from the passenger battery to the IP pump electrical prong closest to the radiator. Side note, it ran connected to the prong closest to the driver, just with a long slow idle down in between gears when shifting the 5 speed manual sd42 tranny. I have no since read the comments and attached the battery supplied wire to the prong closest to the radiator. It runs fine now but wont shut off unless I pull the wire. Thanks for the heads up there.
Glow plug connective caps are melted so I assume the whole system fried. I will keep driving it as is until I can track one down. I have read on a forum that the 6.0 harness with new zd9 Glow plugs will work in the 6.9 system. The only splicing is bringing the 4 wires down into 1 in order to run back to the GPC. Is this true? If so it can save a lot if money. I assume my glow pmugs are fried. They are motorcraft I know that. Any trick to getting them out without cracking the tips off in the head?
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
You've got the 7.3 style controller there. The only 6.9s that had this were 1987s. Since this wasn't factory on your 1986, a bad wiring job may have been the issue here.
So I disconnect the large yellow wire going to the glow plug controller which is behind the intake on the engine? After this I should be fine and wont have to worry about it shorting anything else out? Can I just leave it as is and run the truck? Or is that too risky for a potential fire?
bbjordan
Snow Monkey
I would disconnect the yellow wires at the other end, because they are hot, and provided that the fusible link is fixed, you should be good to go.
The Motocraft/Beru GPs should come right out. The other brands have issues with swollen tips.
The Motocraft/Beru GPs should come right out. The other brands have issues with swollen tips.
Fora new glow plug wire replacement @Thewespaul over at classic diesel disgns sells different set ups for a great price
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
It should work with your truck since it has the 7.3 style controller.
I am planning on buying an older version 87- relay and mounting it on the passenger fender. Then connecting a 6.0 harness directly to this relay and mounting a manual push button to the relay. Does this sound like the best option here assuming my solid state controller and relay are fried. I will have to rewire other things like my IP so I can get 12 volts to it since the wiring to my IP was fried as well. Any suggestions here? Thank you
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