Truck no start

[sle2115]

Ok, the other night I went out and moved my truck closer to an outlet to plug it in. When I did, there was smoke coming from the passenger side fender well mounted solonoid. This was before I even cranked it over. Glow plug light comes on and stays on for what seems the normal amount of time, but I've smelt the hot wire smell again since then. Tonight, I went out to start it to take my daughter and I do deer paradise. I waited on the wait to start light to go out, which it did, again in the normal amount of time, the truck cranks as fast as it ever did, but won't start. It's making a grayish looking smoke, I can smell the fuel smell, but it won't light off. I guess I thought the fender well mounted solenoid was for the starter, but now I'm wondering if the GP's pull power from there as well...not by the switching of said solenoid, but if their power source attaches there because it is smoking (lightly, not like erupting in flames) before I ever touch the key to crank it over.

Any ideas? This thing normally starts very easy, hot, cold whatever. The fuel pump is running, and since it's making gray smoke, I'm assuming it's got fuel. Whatever it is I'm guessing is caused by the smoking gun er solenoid. I gotta find my book to see the wiring diagram.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

If you are meaning the right-side fender-mounted starter relay, EVERYTHING electric starts there.

HOT from the alternator and HOT from the batteries make their main junction on the HOT stud of that relay.

Energizing that relay ONLY sends current to the starter, thus telling it to crank the engine; it has nothing to do with the glow-plugs.

Not sure about your model, but on the same side wheel-well, right next to the voltage regulator, should be the Glow-Plug relay; yours may be different.


Do you mean it smokes without the key even being in the truck; or, are you saying it smokes when the key is in "wait-to-start" mode ??

 

[sle2115]

If you are meaning the right-side fender-mounted starter relay, EVERYTHING electric starts there.

My thoughts were that it was being used as a junction, not that it had anything to do with the control of the GPs.

HOT from the alternator and HOT from the batteries make their main junction on the HOT stud of that relay.


Energizing that relay ONLY sends current to the starter, thus telling it to crank the engine; it has nothing to do with the glow-plugs.

My thoughts exactly.

Not sure about your model, but on the same side wheel-well, right next to the voltage regulator, should be the Glow-Plug relay; yours may be different.

Mine is an 87 with the solid state, engine mounted relay.

Do you mean it smokes without the key even being in the truck; or, are you saying it smokes when the key is in "wait-to-start" mode ??

No, it only smokes with the key in the wait to start mode, GP's cycling, and possibly when cranking, was hard to tell if the smoke was residual or continous when I started cranking it. My thoughts are that this junction may need cleaned, causing a point of high resistance and heat. The engine does turn over though, making me wonder a bit as it won't fire, but my thought is the poor/corroded connection is causing the gp's not to get full power, since it seems to smoke when they are the only thing on.

 

[NCheek]

For whatever reason, the plugs aren't getting power. No power to plugs, no start. If you have seen my post about GPs lately, you might be able to get her started with a good blow dryer!

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Hey Scott,

I know just that smoke you're referring to.

That would be the connection to the 2 fusible links, at the solenoid on the fenderwell, headed to the GPC.
They should be connected to a blk wire with an orange tracer that splits to 2 fusible link wires then head up to the engine harness connector.

Chances are that the harness connector pins have become corroded and is causing more draw on one line than sharing the load equally.

Clean em up and grab some fresh fusible link material.

Or maybe Geo will chime in with his circuit breaker mod.

 

[sle2115]

Ron,

I was thinking I had read about that somewhere and wondered if that might be the case. I'll do a CB mod anyway. I just need to try to get a handle on the load and I can run with it. I hate fusible link!

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Yeah I despise that stuff too. Tis happening to Goldie again this week as a matter of fact along with being in headlight switch burn up mode.

I agree, I'm gonna do that to Goldie this winter too as she's resorted to lawn ornament status as of tomorrow.

 

[sle2115]

Yeah I despise that stuff too. Tis happening to Goldie again this week as a matter of fact along with being in headlight switch burn up mode.

I agree, I'm gonna do that to Goldie this winter too as she's resorted to lawn ornament status as of tomorrow.

Do you remember what gauge fusible link you used? I can calculate CB size if I know that.

 

[towcat]

scott-
I use a 10ga. fusible link for emerg bypass operations.
btw. on the '92 and up, ford in their brilliance did away with the fusible link and the easy-fail connector and went right from the solenoid post to the GPC.

 

[sle2115]

Ron hit the nail on the head. One fusible link is burnt clear in two, the other looks fine...which doesn't make sense, but I haven't worked through all the wiring diagrams, I would have thought one burning up would surely cause the other to go as well. Anyway, the one still being in tact is what is allowing my WTS light to function, etc. I want to put a circuit breaker in there, but need to figure out what size. Going to do some looking for amp ratings on 14 ga fusible link since that is what is there X 2 and go from there.

 

[geonc]

Scott, I found the 250 amp mega fuse and neat, secured holder I used....clicky

The cure for that mess is quite simple...just locate the 2- 10 ga yellow wires that run from the fender mounted relay to - thru- the fender mounted cannon plug and terminate at the gp controller-----
These wires are notorious for failure---simply disconnect them at both ends and replace them with 1- 6 ga wire with the mega fuse located near the fender relay using soldered lugs and shrink tube.

been a while since my IDI days so I hope this is of some help

 

[sle2115]

Thanks Geo...I'm ordering the stuff now. I picked up two 14 ga fusible links to put on it for now. I have to have this tank at least moveable. When I looked at the wiring, etc. I found that where those two wires enter the cannon plug on the fender well, there is a scuffed place in one anyway, possibly starting to melt. I'm going to wire as is, hopefully it will last until the other parts get here. Then, I'm going to bypass that plug all together as I know it's a PIA! I'll just jumper the other wires with shrink wrap and butt connectors (3m Style work well for me, crimp them on, then heat, they contain adhesive and hold up well), then move on.

To others...if anyone is interested, I can do a tech article on it.

Scott

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

To others...if anyone is interested, I can do a tech article on it.

Scott

YES, an electrical TECH article is always useful and this would apply to any of the numerous fusible-links.

Take lots of pictures.


I had found some really neat Maxi-Fuse holders that I intended to replace all the links with, but I am sorta considering using self-resetting circuit-breakers instead.


Over the years, I have seen countless fusible-links simply cut away and the real wire tied back in, eliminating the link, usually with lots of old black tape.

 

[sle2115]

Just got my MAX fuses and fuse holder via USPS. I'm going to use 4 gauge cable (I have some from making my add on ground straps), so I got solder on ends as well. Anyway, I'm going to do the fusible link write up first, since I've already done the work and pics, then I'll do the other write up for a full eliminate the fusible link conversion. Eventually, that whole cannon plug and multiple fusible links is going bye-bye!

 

[sle2115]

Fusible links are short for this world. The gray plug is starting to cause issues as well. I'm going to eliminate the gray plug all together, does anyone have a diagram of what each of the wires are. I'm thinking of putting another circuit breaker block in to elminate all the fusible links in that area and would like to calculate loads, etc. based on what each of those wires is for. I can track each one down, but it would be easier from a schematic.

Thanks,
Scott