Truck just died. No start

Cainon

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2019
Posts
218
Reaction score
47
Location
Smithfield
Just got it in it headed down the drive way and it cuts off. Won't start back up. Crank crank crank (starter took a beating) cranked over once for a second and shut off instantly when put stick in reverse. 1985 6.9 non turbo dually.

Also* injection pump is making a clicking sound
 

Cainon

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2019
Posts
218
Reaction score
47
Location
Smithfield
Although, I am proud my mower was able to tow this thing back down my driveway
You must be registered for see images attach
 

chillman88

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2017
Posts
6,022
Reaction score
6,152
Location
Central NY
Also* injection pump is making a clicking

Wonder if there's a short in the power to the shut-off solenoid on the IP? That usually is supposed to click when it receives power. I'd test the feed with a voltmeter.
 

Philip1

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2019
Posts
448
Reaction score
366
Location
Northeastern Nevada
How much fuel do you have in the tank? If its at 1/4 tank or so your shower head may be busted and not picking up fuel
 

Cainon

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2019
Posts
218
Reaction score
47
Location
Smithfield
How much fuel do you have in the tank? If its at 1/4 tank or so your shower head may be busted and not picking up fuel

Just filled up yesterday. Also thinking back. I just drained the water separator (original) but it has not given me trouble before as I have installed a shut off valve to prevent air intrusion.
 

Selahdoor

How can I help you, or make you laugh, today?
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2015
Posts
2,253
Reaction score
2,004
Location
Index Wa
As chillman suggests, clicking could be your fuel solenoid getting intermittent power.

Run a wire from the battery, directly to the solenoid and try again.
 

gandalf

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Posts
3,877
Reaction score
1,070
Location
CA &/or Maine
Do as Selahdoor suggested. Run a cable from the positive post on the battery to the front spade contact on the IP. This will bypass the other cable on that spade connector. Pull the stock female connector off and leave it off while the temporary cable is on. If this starts the engine you know your problem is somewhere upstream on the stock cable. ALSO, if this starts the engine then the only way to shut it off is to disconnect the temporary cable.

Otherwise I'd say the problem is air intrusion from the '85 water/fuel separator. They do have a reputation for that.
 

Selahdoor

How can I help you, or make you laugh, today?
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2015
Posts
2,253
Reaction score
2,004
Location
Index Wa
Disconnect the connector that I have in the red box. Let it just hang loose, away from any metal contact.
You must be registered for see images attach


Now run a wire from the battery positive to where that wire used to be connected.

If it starts and runs, the problem is in the wire you disconnected.

If it still has the same problem, it is entirely possible that the problem is in the fuel solenoid itself. Inside the pump.

You'll need to disconnect your new wire to get the engine to stop.

If you decide to make it a "temporarily permanent" solution, run power to the FS there, from a fused switch in the cab.
 

Cainon

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2019
Posts
218
Reaction score
47
Location
Smithfield
Thank you everyone. I really appreciate all the advice. I will run this test tmw. I'll keep y'all posted.
 

Cainon

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2019
Posts
218
Reaction score
47
Location
Smithfield
Disconnect the connector that I have in the red box. Let it just hang loose, away from any metal contact.
You must be registered for see images attach


Now run a wire from the battery positive to where that wire used to be connected.

If it starts and runs, the problem is in the wire you disconnected.

If it still has the same problem, it is entirely possible that the problem is in the fuel solenoid itself. Inside the pump.

You'll need to disconnect your new wire to get the engine to stop.

If you decide to make it a "temporarily permanent" solution, run power to the FS there, from a fused switch in the cab.

Ran this test, still no start.
 

Selahdoor

How can I help you, or make you laugh, today?
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2015
Posts
2,253
Reaction score
2,004
Location
Index Wa
Are you sure it's the IP that is clicking?

Also, remove your new wire, and just touch it to the connector there and pull it away. Do the touch and pull away several times. It SHOULD click every time you do that. If it does, you should be able to tell whether or not that is the clicking you are hearing.

If so, disconnect the other wire, that is near the new one.

If is till clicks and won't start, it sounds to me like the fuel solenoind in the top of the IP is bad.

That can be replaced, but be VERY careful when you do so. There are several threads here where people give pictorials on how to do so, and what to be careful about.
 

Cainon

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2019
Posts
218
Reaction score
47
Location
Smithfield
Are you sure it's the IP that is clicking?

Also, remove your new wire, and just touch it to the connector there and pull it away. Do the touch and pull away several times. It SHOULD click every time you do that. If it does, you should be able to tell whether or not that is the clicking you are hearing.

If so, disconnect the other wire, that is near the new one.

If is till clicks and won't start, it sounds to me like the fuel solenoind in the top of the IP is bad.

That can be replaced, but be VERY careful when you do so. There are several threads here where people give pictorials on how to do so, and what to be careful about.

Thank you my friend. I did exactly that and it did exactly that. I will look into these forum post.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
91,217
Posts
1,128,469
Members
24,043
Latest member
tottripp

Members online

No members online now.
Top