Traveller Smurf (Cubey's '89 van)

[Cubey]

Could that be partially blocked causing your restriction?

Doing a quick Google search, it looks like the 6.0 PS trans cooler is the “stacked manifold” type (wrong naming convention) and I hear those are harder to clean compared to the continuous tube type. So be careful buying used. I would hate to see you ruin your trans.

Yeah, I'm just thinking out loud.

I might just stick with the Amazon tube and fin one, since it's so big. This van doesn't have the vertical bars that limited the cooler size like the RV did. Not sure if they got removed or if it never had the. But due to that, I might have to use the plastic pokey mounts.

(Edit: I can see where the bars would be so I'm guessing they got removed when whoever was destroying the AC system)

(edit 2: I ordered the same cooler again with another return kit, to get over the free shipping threshold. The reason being, they added a 12% off coupon for the cooler that wasn't there yesterday. I requested an order cancellation on the first but it's pending. It's free returns even if they ship order #1 out, it just costs Amazon money for refusing to cancel. $5 is $5. I can wait one extra day for delivery.)

RV with the factory cooler for reference:

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[trackspeeder]

I dunno, I put a deep pan on the RV and I'm sure it probably helped.

In case you aren't aware, the factory A/C condenser is plumbed as the transmission cooler, done by a past owner.

So it already has a massive cooler, and even that isn't enough. Even on fairly flat highways of West Texas, where it's been 90-92 degrees, I had to stay at 55mph with OD off, to keep the transmission below 220.

Once the transmission gets past about 190, it has trouble keeping cool, and seems to only get hotter and hotter for the most part.

Engine cooling is fine, 190-200. And yes, the transmission appears to be plumbed into the radiator too, so it should be cooled from that. I don't know if it's going to the radiator first or the condenser-cooler, but I don't know if that would matter.

That's why I'm thinking about adding a second aux cooler, in addition to the condenser. It's simply not cooling well enough.

The huge RV with a C6 ran 195-210 with a deep pan and a decent sized Hayden cooler... so you'd think this thing would run cooler than that with E4OD and a condenser as a cooler... unless it's just not working as efficiently as a proper oil cooler?

Ditch the AC condenser. They are not designed for cooling tranny fluid.

 

[Cubey]

Ditch the AC condenser. They are not designed for cooling tranny fluid.

Yep that's the plan. For what the tube/fin cooler I ordered lacks in efficiency vs stacked plate, it should make up for in size. I'm not towing 10k so it should do well for what I need.

I was driving 45-50mph across north Texas this afternoon to keep the AT around 200-210. I finally gave in to the heat and dropped $75 on a1950s-60s era roadside motel that allowed Lucy.

The single serve, in roof coffee maker is a nice touch, I will say. Has a fridge and microwave too. The tiniest bathroom you can imagine though. Someone very tall or very fat probably wouldn't be able to sit on the toilet and shut the door, most likely. It's just skinny me and I didn't try to close it. Makes no sense that it's that small.

But I got 45 miles beyond where I was considering stopping, so I only have 245 miles left to drive tomorrow. Only did 229 miles today but I got started a bit later (9:30ish) and I have to drive 55 max the entire way. Last 45 was at 45-50 with the hazard lights on so people wouldn't be surprised by me going so slow in a 75 zone.

I should be able to avoid most of the heat tomorrow if I get up early enough.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Probably not much worse than the old RV though. Speedwise anyway.

 

[Cubey]

Probably not much worse than the old RV though. Speedwise anyway.

Well.. i usually drove the RV at 55-60 and it's EGT is what I had to really watch. Water too, in the mountains. It was a balancing act between the EGT and water. The C6 would run 180-210, depending, usually hanging around 195. It was easy to control though by slowing down, or downshifting on grades.

I only ever stopped once to let the RV cool down based on the transmission, and that was in 2022 when i bought the bug and was pulling it up the mountain from Phoenix towards Flagstaff.

And this van is running that hot without going up mountains. It's worse right now solely based on the transmission. So yeah, something isn't right cooling wise.

Gonna try to get going by 8am at the latest so I can haul butt at 60-65 before the weather temps start to rise. Once that does, I'll be back to 50-55mph for the last 50-100 miles depending on how early i leave and how far i get.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

I'm not sure if this has been asked yet but, is the torque converter locking up? If for some reason it isn't locking it would generate a lot more heat.

Don't know if it's your problem, just throwing something out that occurred to me.

James

 

[Cubey]

I'm not sure if this has been asked yet but, is the torque converter locking up? If for some reason it isn't locking it would generate a lot more heat.

Don't know if it's your problem, just throwing something out that occurred to me.

James

feels like it is

 

[Cubey]

I probably won't be putting this on until I come back to Arkansas early next year, but this price was too good to pass up, for $200 (+$20 in tax) including shipping on eBay.

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It's $373+tax new.

ATS E4OD 4R100 5R110 Deep Transmission Pan Fits 1989-2010 7.3L 6.0L Power Stroke

Buy the ATS E4Od 4R100 5R110 Deep Transmission Pan Fits 1989-2010 7.3L 6.0L Power Stroke from our Automatic Transmission Oil Pan Collection.

www.atsdiesel.com

It has a 1/8" temperature sender port, so I might get another Autometer gauge like I had in the RV for pan temperature monitoring, and move the current test port monitoring gauge to the torque converter output line, again like it was on the RV.

I put it on "6 months no interest" via PayPal Credit, because why not. I always pay those off before the deadline, so I don't charged interest. Only $36.66/mo if I let it ride 6 months anyway, easy enough to pay, even if I have a sudden expensive, besides the work I plan to do to the interior of the van this winter.

My understanding is you just use the regular 4WD pickup filter for deep pans on E4OD, unlike C6 which requires a separate special aftermarket pickup and filter, like the RV got with the B&M pan. Besides that, I'll have to buy a gasket too. No big deal.

It does come with the cap screws for mounting it, so that's still better than the B&M C6 I pan I bought new and came with worthless hex head bolts, that had to be tossed aside and store bought cap screws and stacks of washers used instead to adjust the thread lengths by 1/8", from 1" to 7/8".

And if for some reason I decide not to use it, it'll be easy to recoup what I paid.

 

[Cubey]

I started trying to pull loose the mess of transmission cooler hoses running around between the transmission, spin on filter head, and the bit of hard cooler lines still there.

The intent is to replace all of the hose because it looks pretty darn old, well beyond when it should have been replaced.

They had 3 clamps in a row holding the hose on smooth steel lines without any barbs. And two clamps everywhere else at the ends, at the transmission side. I wasn't able to pull loose the hoses from the barbs on the transmission and filter head because the hose is so old. It was 95 degrees today with humidity and I was sweating to death, even with the van in shade, so I gave up for the day.

I ordered a pair of these ($17.60 w/tax) to put on the cut off steel lines instead of just running the hose on smooth steel with a bunch of clamps, as it was.

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I have all week to try to get the old hoses off, since they won't be here until Friday. And it's supposed to cool down a bit.

I might go get some of these pliers, because it's a bit tight under there, trying to pull loose old dried out hoses.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-long-reach-hose-grip-pliers-37909.html

I have the hoses spinning loose on the barbs, but they won't flex/expand over the barb humps. I might just have to cut them off with a box cutter? I won't be saving the hose due to how old it is, so it doesn't matter. But I'm trying to avoid marring the brass fittings and potentially causing leaks.

Also, they had a seemingly regular engine oil filter on the transmission cooler line, an older O'Reilly MGL16.

Thankfully I guessed the correct filter head threads (3/4-16) last winter when I ordered a Baldwin B163, which is listed as being for transmission. I don't know if it matters or not.

B163 - Baldwin - Spin-on Lube Filters | Baldwin

Baldwin spin-on lube filters protect your engine from wear particles that can otherwise lead to premature parts failure.

ph.baldwinfilters.com

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

ATF is technically a very thin oil, so the standard filter will work great! I wonder how often you'd have to change one... a normal slush-bucket filter is little more than a screen so it wouldn't pack up with fine bits.

Nice score on the ATS pan! That thing is a nice unit.

 

[Cubey]

ATF is technically a very thin oil, so the standard filter will work great! I wonder how often you'd have to change one... a normal slush-bucket filter is little more than a screen so it wouldn't pack up with fine bits.

Nice score on the ATS pan! That thing is a nice unit.

As often as the hoses/ATF I'd say. ATF is a more closed system than engine oil, so unless it's a major failure, I doubt it's doing much. And in a major failure, it would save the radiator cooler from potentially getting clogged. The Baldwin B163 filter is about the same size as the one it had, typical small car engine size. It's not an expensive filter, so no big deal.

Although, with an aluminum pan, it might be worth changing more often in case it's catching metal. Maybe also put a magnefine in line? I put one on the RV with it's aluminum pan, but it didn't have a spin-on.

 

[Cant Write]

Cubey, just cut the old hose off with a box cutter, everyone does just that!! Save the headache and the wallet.

Then I use spit as a lubricant when I put the new ones on to slide over the barbs.

If you must use the old steel cut lines, and worm drive clamps, put them opposing. I’ve personally never seen them fail in low pressure automotive use. (Trans, PS return)

I’m excited for you to get the trans cooling worked out, and to see how it works out.

hopefully you will find the missing AC brackets and lines and get that working for next summer.

 

[Cubey]

Hopefully you will find the missing AC brackets and lines and get that working for next summer.

Brackets are easy, probably the same as trucks.

Lines are what's difficult/impossible. Can't just delete rear AC easily on the 3rd gen vans like you can on 4th gen.

My best bet seems like a 7.5 for a line to replace the one that tees off for rear ac but 3rd gens of any kind are pretty rare now, most got junked a long time ago.

 

[Cubey]

I took a trip to a local junkyard that listed an 84 IDI. It was pretty complete except for the air filter housing. i didn't look closer but maybe it had a turbo. It was an odd F250 dually.

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I got the two piece AC bracket and the VRV. I didn't have enough tools or time to pull the IP or I might have considered it.

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$20 for the brackets and VRV.

I don't have a use for the VRV on E4OD, but they're a little bit valuable to sell, so why not?

Edit: oh holy moly they've gone up in price by double! I didn't think to grab the hoses, but I did grab the adapter piece.

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[IDIBRONCO]

I didn't think to grab the hoses, but I did grab the adapter piece.

You got the important part. You should be able to replace the hoses with standard vacuum line that you can buy in bulk and most parts stores.