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Traded my IDI for powerstroke

Discussion in '7.3L Powerstroke Diesels' started by slyhog022056, Sep 11, 2019.

  1. slyhog022056

    slyhog022056 Full Access Member

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    I traded my 91 F350 dually 7.3 IDI for a 97 F250 power stroke 7.3 power stroke. New to turbocharged diesels and would appreciate any input as to pros and cons of this truck. The only questions I have so far is the clutch pedal has to move down 3+ inches before it begins to engage and has to go completely to the floor to keep from engaging the clutch then it only has to come up about an inch to fully engage, normal or am i in for a clutch replacement?? I know for a fact that there is no air in the system because i pulled a vacuum on the system then gravity bled it out after that.
    2nd, is 2500 rpm at 70 mph normal for the 5 speed manual?? seems like i need another gear, my IDI (e4OD) locked in high gear only ran 2100 rpm at 70 mph
     
  2. Fordman1920032003

    Fordman1920032003 Registered User

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    Check the bushings on the clutch pedal and arm under the dash.
     
  3. slyhog022056

    slyhog022056 Full Access Member

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    Already did that, they are new, is that rod adjustable? I crawled underneath and i can easily move the slave cylinder towards the clutch fork about 1/2 inch, wonder if tge arm is bent. When i move the cylinder and let go it returns putting light pressure on tge arm which i know means the throwout bearing rides the pressure pkate all the time. Maybe tgats normal for hydraulic clutchs. I am used to old school linkages.
     
  4. Randy Bush

    Randy Bush Full Access Member

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    Do you know what gear ratio your rear end is? My 93 dually with 4.10 and ZF5 runs right about there. On the clutch check how much slack your have before the pedal makes contact with cyl and deal with that .
     
  5. slyhog022056

    slyhog022056 Full Access Member

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    The pedal pad moves down about 1 inche before making contact them another 2 or so before it actually feels like its pushing the fork and pressure plate i think all the slack is on the slave cylinder end i need another person to push the pedal so i watch from underneath.
     
  6. greenskeeper

    greenskeeper Full Access Member

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    remove slave cylinder and measure the distance to the fork. Chances are it's bent if it was never replaced with the updated part.

    sounds like you have 4.10 gearing, the axle code of the door jam sticker would confirm.
     
  7. u2slow

    u2slow Plan B

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    As already mentioned, sounds like a 4.10 truck. My clutch linkage (95 F350) was so far gone no bushing kit was going to fix it. I replaced the nub with a 1/2" bolt.

    My powerstroke experience is why I began cummins therapy. :sly
     
  8. greenskeeper

    greenskeeper Full Access Member

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    cummins...great engine unfortunately wrapped in a dodge
     
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  9. slyhog022056

    slyhog022056 Full Access Member

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    ok, measure fork end to face of bellhousing, 1.75 inches, removed fork and saw where the fork had been bent by the bulge in the sides of it, bent it back in a press about 1/2 of and inch on the small end and tried it. too much, went back 1/8 inch and that put the fork end about 3/8 of an inch from total collapse of the slave cylinder. that put the pedal total release about 1 inch off of the floorboard. will try that for a while and see how it does. still feels like it is going too far before beginning to release. but at least i don't have to go clear to the floor with it. have to get another cap for the master cylinder and try to vacuum it down again to get rid of all the air in the system.
     
  10. slyhog022056

    slyhog022056 Full Access Member

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    fork 1.jpg fork 2.jpg fork 3.jpg fork 4.jpg
     
  11. compressionignitionrules

    compressionignitionrules Full Access Member

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    7.3 powerstroke runs best on quality diesel oil and filters and doesn't like dirty stuff. I've done oil changes on high intervals on customers trucks and its like doing a tuneup on a gas engine.
    old 7.3 idis will run on any oil product you have handy and will keep goign until they lock up.

    you got 4.10s
     
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  12. raydav

    raydav Full Access Member

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    Scan thru here. https://goo.gl/photos/hQSWmXVQ6HsMVWzh6
    There are captions.

    Seriously consider regulated return fuel supply. It gets rid of the dead head rails. I did the whole thing for less than fifty dollars. And I just replaced the mechanical pressure gauge that came with the regulator with an electronic gauge in the cab; $10. I run at sixty pounds.

    And replacing the filter with a frame mounted Racor.

    And beware the connectors under the valve covers.
     
  13. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    97 isn't dead headed...

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
     
  14. slyhog022056

    slyhog022056 Full Access Member

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    Are the connections going to the injrctors a problem, especially when wet? I need to degrease this motor badly, cant see any actual paint anywhere. Btw, where does the speedo get its signal from. Would love to change rear end ratios but dont want to have to recalibrate speedo. Where can i find a full wiring diagram from? Bought one for a 96 but the colors arent the same, at least not on interior wiring any way. Lots of wires been cut spliced or done awsy with. Even the injection system is cobbled up wires
     
  15. u2slow

    u2slow Plan B

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    Did '97 F-series introduce a regulated-return? Electric or mechanical pump? My '97 E-series fuel system was deadhead just like my '95 F350.

    Speedo signal is taken from the rear diff sensor.

    I debated re-gearing my F350 from 4.10 to 3.54, but I ended up lifting and running 35" tires instead. I never corrected the speedo. It wasn't off far enough to worry about.

    EDIT: I used this guide a lot for engine troubleshooting:
    http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/fordd...49873DITDirectInjectionTurbochargedDiesel.pdf
     

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