Timing problems

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Thinking about this timing tape concept though installing a full balancer scale would allow you to accurately check every injector pop event and identify a bad injector wouldn't it? So at 8 degrees, 98, 188, and 278 all injectors should line up with that tape and a none advancing timing light. Advancing would be 0, 90, 180, 270. Do they sell a full scale tape? Or I could probably just use a protractor or cut to length tape of 25% of circumference and mark 90 degree lines to test each injector myself. If something was off average timing based on deviation of the injectors popping. I bet this is why some people get better and worse mileage changing timing, because not all injectors pulse the same and using the #1 could be their worst injector.

 

[Sparky95]

That might explain the bouncing around like crazy, because it was worse today than last weekend and I had it further down closer to the injector. I haven't got my hands on another light yet. The tape goes all the way around though so I should be able to just look for the 90° degree mark a little below the line. I was gonna try the number four injector line today but I wasn't sure what I was looking for degree wise. I tried cracking all eight lines the other day too and they all changed the overall sound the same. Still rattling, but with a dead miss in it. If it's just #1 popping low, it shouldn't affect the rest that much I don't think. Or maybe it's that injector rattling when it fires because it's low then the rest of the rattling is my wrist pins slowly getting squished. I could switch the injectors around, if that Cat pop tester won't hook up I'll try that.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

If you timing by number 1, and it's popping 15 degrees before the others, your timing is going to be 15 degrees retarded on 7 cylinders. So running at 18, you might actually have 7 cylinders at 3 degrees and just number 1 cylinder at 18

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Where did you get that tape from? I'm going to get some and check timing on all 8 cylinder since I have a brand new bull moose and misters. This way I can document a an ideal system and verify if it ever gets out of spec then locate the culprit.

 

[Sparky95]

I reply to one post, and have four more show up while I'm typing. That is awesome! So tomorrow I'm gonna try the #4 cylinder and I'll throw some grease on it under the clamp.

 

[laserjock]

Check #4. It should be the same as #1. No offset. If it's an injector issue, chances of both being that crazy off are slim I would think.

 

[Sparky95]

Where did you get that tape from? I'm going to get some and check timing on all 8 cylinder since I have a brand new bull moose and misters. This way I can document a an ideal system and verify if it ever gets out of spec then locate the culprit.

Summit racing. Bought the seven inch Chevy tape because the Ford seven inch tape had reviews saying the scale was off once you got to thirty degrees. And it's summit racing brand too.

 

[riotwarrior]

Just remember scale is out some...not much...but some due to or larger than 7" balancer.

Refer to mt timing tape threads...math is there to quantify how much...

JM7.3CW

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I'll measure the balancer and make my own marks, I think that'll be the most accurate

 

[Sparky95]

I was considering doing that, but I didn't think normal tape would hold up very well or be as easy to see. I ordered a pyro from them at the same time so I got free shipping on everything. Provided the tape's not the issue, it well be five bucks well spent.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Oh i wont leave regular tape on there, itll just make it easier to to mark and mesure the tape, then wrap the tape, then dremel through it at the marks to notch the balancer every 90 degrees

 

[Sparky95]

I gotcha. That'll be the trick right there. I may start doing that anytime I have to pull one of these engines out for some reason.

 

[Sparky95]

I tried my dernest to check the timing on the #4 cylinder and could not get a stable reading. I tried cleaning the line off several times, tried grease under the adapter, wiggled the light's power wires, everything. I guess it needs to be on the pump side of the last bend instead of right on the injector. I was gonna try moving the adapter behind the bend but my finger hit the exhaust side of the turbo. Then my finger decided that it needed to cool off some before I started sanding. Then I ran out of daylight.

https://youtu.be/uESHaRWbE60

This was the fifth cranking cycle of 10ish seconds with a couple of minutes in between. It was 66 degrees and the front of the truck was in the sun all afternoon. I held it on a little longer than normal because by this point I was fed up and that starter has a lifetime warranty. Advance Auto. Already cashed that in once due to a bad spot on the flywheel. I'm getting pretty good at changing them.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Why not try number 2 if you have a 90 degree mark and shoot for 98?

Isn't on the driver side, second one back? How'd you touch the turbo

 

[rustygold]

It's sounds like you make have weak injectors or a weak injector pump. You might have one or 2 degrees at the most on timing.

There are few things to make this happen.

Timing
Injection pump
Injectors
And compression
And maybe lift pump too.


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