Timing or Injection Pump?

[pelky350]

I would try most things before the gear timing change! It's would be very difficult to know if your are moving it one tooth back or how far it
Is moving it. Judging by how the cold start sounded I can hear the engine clattering like normalish. If it were one tooth back it wouldn't hardly make any noise and a lot of blue and white smoke would have shown there I belive. You may need some leverage to advance the pump more if possible. It's also very possible the pump
Is getting warn out based from the hot start issue

 

[adamsanders]

This is the top of my pump as is. Not sure how much more advance it has in it normally. Also not sure if this is the original pump or not so the mark may not have any significance.

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[adamsanders]

Okay, so I believe I have a worn IP. I advanced it to where I had a pretty noticeable cold rattle and it would give me a pretty good puff of dark gray smoke at WOT. Drove it around and let it get warm, shut it off and it wouldn't crank. It would chug like it was going to hit but wouldn't. So I am potentially going to look at a parts truck IDI this weekend. Hasn't ran in a while. Thinking about getting the IP off of it for cheap and trying it. Is it worth a 75$ try? I really am not looking for a 100,000 mile remedy here, more like a 10,000 mile fix. Or is there anything I could do to limp this one along for a few months? The truck will just not be used enough to justify a 600$ Moose pump at this time.

 

[pelky350]

75$ pump gamble isn't a terrible idea, i did it until I could afford a new pump(also costed me 75$) if the pumps been sitting outside a truck you'll want to clean it out somehow, it's probably full of old fuel but that's up to you I just bolted mine in and bled air and fired up but I wasn't concerned about the injectors that used to be in it either at that time

 

[Macrobb]

Did you fix the starter issue?

You know that these starters can go half-bad, right? where 1/4 brushes fail, and it has about half the power it should have. Sounds like a dead battery, but usually still cranks, for a while.

Slow cranking makes everything harder. Same with new injectors - the IP having to push against more backpressure will make it a lot harder to start hot.

 

[adamsanders]

Well, I didn't change it but after letting batteries charge really well, the starter didn't seem to have an issue after the truck got hot. Hard to tell though, definitely could be bad. The starter has had a pretty rough life just since I've had it. I'm gonna try adding some motor oil to the fuel to "thicken" the fuel a little bit to see if that will help any. If not I'll try a used IP if I can find one. All while keeping a close eye on cranking speed

 

[Macrobb]

Did you fix the starter issue?

You know that these starters can go half-bad, right? where 1/4 brushes fail, and it has about half the power it should have. Sounds like a dead battery, but usually still cranks, for a while.

Slow cranking makes everything harder. Same with new injectors - the IP having to push against more backpressure will make it a lot harder to start hot.

Well, I didn't change it but after letting batteries charge really well, the starter didn't seem to have an issue after the truck got hot. Hard to tell though, definitely could be bad. The starter has had a pretty rough life just since I've had it. I'm gonna try adding some motor oil to the fuel to "thicken" the fuel a little bit to see if that will help any. If not I'll try a used IP if I can find one. All while keeping a close eye on cranking speed

You can pull the starter, disassemble and clean it. There's only like 4 bolts holding it together, and it's a good way of checking in on it.

You'll want to clean all the dust and crud out of it, grease the gears and sand/clean the contacts on the motor.
You can also see how much brush you have left by how far they spring inward when you pull the rotor out of them. If they barely spring forward at all, you might need a new starter or brushes. If you've got 1/8" or more "spring" left in them, you're plenty fine for now.

 

[adamsanders]

So I added a quart of oil to the tank and filled it to at least 7/8 full. Still would not start when hot. Tried pouring cool water over the back of the pump and it wouldn't start then either. Does this just mean the pump is extremely worn out or would one of these most likely worked?

 

[donald]

I have found rebuild service for DB2 IP on ebay for $275.00

 

[Black dawg]

Well, I didn't change it but after letting batteries charge really well, the starter didn't seem to have an issue after the truck got hot.

If you fix whatever is causing the slow cranking, starter, batteries, cables/connections, the cranking speed wont "seem" better, it will be way obvious. Warmed up especially, these things really spin fast when everything is correct.

 

[OLDBULL8]

So I added a quart of oil to the tank and filled it to at least 7/8 full. Still would not start when hot. Tried pouring cool water over the back of the pump and it wouldn't start then either. Does this just mean the pump is extremely worn out or would one of these most likely worked?

Adding a quart of oil to 15 -19 gallons of fuel is like ******* in the Pacific Ocean. Dump in 2-3 gallons of SAE 50.

 

[79jasper]

I have found rebuild service for DB2 IP on ebay for $275.00

And it'll likely have heat soak problems within a month.

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[donald]

Why do you think that the rebuilt pump will have heat problems?

 

[pelky350]

You get what you pay for a 275$ pump isn't going to be quality pump. Likely just pulled apart "inspected" and put back together

 

[79jasper]

Because we've seen it here, again and again.

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