tilt steering and ignition actuator lube?

[dgr]

Can i put a tilt steering in my truck? What is a direct swap?

Do you need to lubricate the ignition actuator? Mine broke and I'm in the process of tearing the column down. The bronco article has the correct part number door my truck and it is a stock item at Ford.

For anyone experiencing excessive travel when turning the ignition key, don't ignore it our you will be stranded. I had to cannibalize a spare switch for the spade connector and wire to get my fss energized.

 

[dgr]

Another question. This thing sure looks like a tilt column from the inside. Anyone know if it just needs some parts added to convert it?

 

[RLDSL]

Can you put tilt steering, Anything is possible with enough fabrication. You can probably find a stock replacement column with tilt, but they are usually hammered, i 'm personally as soon as it cools down enough to work on things, going to put a freightliner steering column with tilt and telescoping that I picked up a while back that will fit in there without too much fuss. The bearings in the factory column are garbage and i dont feel like fooling with them only to have to do it again

 

[dgr]

It is tilt in there and now it works. Sweeeet

 

[icanfixall]

If you don't know how to make the wheel tilt in our trucks.. You do this by pushing on the signal arm... Thats how my 89 works. You push it towards the dash...

 

[RLDSL]

If you don't know how to make the wheel tilt in our trucks.. You do this by pushing on the signal arm... Thats how my 89 works. You push it towards the dash...

Tilt is an option, they dont all have it. I scoured the boneyards forever trying to find a decent factory tilt wheel and didn't have much luck, all the cheapskates around here bought the fixed column new

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Many 1980-86 trucks have tilt with the owner being ignorant of the fact.

Most tilt columns have a separate little lever that operates the tilt; however, the 1980-86 tilt lever is also the signal lever. (like icanfixall said)

Like RSDSL, I intend to retrofit a much more durable column into my truck.

Until that happens, I have done some preventive measures that will insure that the crappy Ford system doesn't get me stranded.

Although my key-switch and actuating-rod are all still intact and in operating condition (although the actuating-rod has been giving me strong warnings of it's demise on very cold winter mornings), I have converted all of the electrical functions to external switches.

Also, I disabled the steering-wheel lock mechanism.

That old worn-thin ignition key that I carried for years is no longer necessary to start and operate the truck.

I no longer have to dread the day when the flimsy pot-metal actuator-rod snaps in two.


The turn-signal switch had been eliminated many years ago, in favor of a genuine Signal-Stat; so, the only service my column provides is to steer the truck.

 

[C.J.]

Holy cow. I swore that my truck had a tilt wheel in it but never knew how to adjust it and so I just assumed that the previous owner frankensteined a steering column from another truck into mine and somehow the tilting ability was lost in the swap.

On a sort of related note, I recently replaced the ignition relay (the one on top of the steering column) and after some adjustments, everything was fine. Last night I go to start my truck and nothing. I can jump it at the solenoid on the fender wall and it will run. Do these relays need to be adjusted often? Is there a common issue that arises with these relays or did I just have 2 go bad on me in less than a month? I'm guessing that if my truck runs and shuts down that the cheap metal linkage has not broken And I can't imagine that these relays go south that often.

Nothing worse than having to pop the hood and tinker to start the truck but then again there is nothing better than being able to pop the hood and tinker to start the truck if ya know what I mean.

 

[dgr]

Cj,
Test light at starter relay on fender. If that fails, you can lower the column, pull the round cover and use a pair if vice grips to actuate the rod. Or just pop the ignition switch off at that point and try sliding it to start with a screw driver. A starter relay or glow plug relay for that matter that is starting to die can often be jumpered at the relay and work fine.

When i installed my ignition switch, I set it to the off position, had the key out and pulled back lightly on the switch while tightening the two bolts.

*I am calling the column mounted switch the ignition switch. Where the key goes is the ignition cylinder or lock cylinder

 

[C.J.]

I got my test meter out and had about 1/2 a volt at the relay on the fender wall when I turned the key as opposed to 12 volts. I just replaced the starter, starter relay and the ignition relay not more than 2 weeks ago just so I had a fresh starting point for all of the above components so it seemed odd that it would die that quickly. Maybe it just needs a slight adjustment, maybe I have gremlins. Either way, I now have a push button ignition to go along with the push button glow plugs.

I kinda figured the relay went south, When I turned the key to crank it I could hear a drop in the hum of the electric fuel pump. I'm guessing that meant that the ignition linkage was adjusted properly and there is some other issue.

Hey, on the plus side, I now know how to work my tilt steering wheel