This weekend its finally time

[Hyde]

Alright guys, turbo is finally going on this weekend after many months of parts collecting. Quick rundown of what I have:

ATS/factory crossover, uppipe and drain pedestal. Russ' intake hat, Holset HX35, 38mm external wastegate.

Questions I have, can I use the port from the factory oil pressure sender to feed the turbo? Also what is my best option for a road draft tube? Punch a hole in a valve cover or maybe make a fitting to run a hose off the oil fill?

Any answers or other tips would be great since I don't have a full "kit" or instructions. Thanks in advance you guys have always been a ton of help!

 

[icanfixall]

The factory oil pressure feed is where the factory used for the turbo feed but... that was for the factory turbo engines. also it was a 1/4 inch supply line. Still you can run from that location or the location down on the bell housing.

 

[Hyde]

Thank you, where is the port on the bellhousing? Once I start getting everything in I'll decide which I will use for the turbo and which for the mechanical gauge.

 

[hesutton]

On the engine block........... there is a square pipe plug (its small) on the lower driver's side of the block (really low and back) near where the transmision bolts the block.

There are two other plugs you could remove. The front one is under the motor mount and really can't be used. The other is midway between the rear and front plugs and is hidden behind the oil cooler bundle.

As for the gauge, just put it on the oil block in the turbo's center section (either directly or remotely). That way you know exactly the oil pressure getting to your turbo and it keeps the sender in an easy to reach location.

Heath

 

[Hyde]

As for the gauge, just put it on the oil block in the turbo's center section (either directly or remotely). That way you know exactly the oil pressure getting to your turbo and it keeps the sender in an easy to reach location.

Heath

I like this idea! Thanks Heath, any other must do's while I'm doing this anyone can think of? I've heard of punching holes in the valley pan, where do you put the holes? Do I have to pull the intake to do so?

 

[subway]

no, no need to pull the intake, take an awl and punch holes in the baffle through the old CDR location.

 

[Hyde]

Perfect thank you, next big thing is road draft tube placement

 

[hesutton]

My opinion is to do the following for the RDT.

Call Banks (or a Banks dealer) and order these parts.

944042 - Crankcase vent hose adapter. It bolts to the front of the IP gear cover and allows you to use a 1 inch hose for your RDT.
42130 - Intake manifold block off plate. It blocks the hole in the back of the intake where the CDR used to be.
93150 - Manifold block off plate o-ring. Just the o-ring for the block off plate to seal against the intake.

Banks Manual with parts illustration and list. It's kind of annoying that the illustration (front) and the list (back) are on opposite sides of the manual.

Now, I suggest these parts as they will make life easier for you when it comes to removing the CDR, closing the hole in the intake, and putting a RDT on the rig. But, Banks likes there parts and they will be a bit $$$. But, conveneince sometimes is expernsive.


You can make these parts and search and find o-rings, but buying them form Banks will save you time and effort for sure.


ON EDIT: To be honest, I don't know if the ATS pedistal will block off the intake hole or not. Never seen one, if it does, you don't need those parts and you'll be getting a RDT much cheaper.


Heath

 

[reklund]

both of the ATS pedestal's that I've played with block off the intake hole for the CDR, hope that helps. Post a pic of your pedestal and we will be able to tell for sure.

 

[Hyde]

Yes it blocks the hole in the intake and bolts on in the old CDR holes, I dont have a pic right off hand but I can tell that, Ive make my own CDR blockoff on my old truck. So a tube off the oil fill tube for the hose, I can TIG a fitting onto the stock filler if I need to.

 

[RLDSL]

Here we go again. If your engine is original, punch the holes in the intake valley pan to allow for extra oil flow, but if the thing was rebuilt or had teh valley pan gasket replaced any time recently ( like after teh turbo engine was released ) there will be no need to punch any holes, as Ford took care of that for you. When the turbo engine came out , they changed the design of teh valley pan to allow for teh increased oil volume to be flowing down through there and they eliminated the part number for the early valley pan gasket so there is only one now, and that is the turbo style, and all the gasket manufacturers make the turbo style only now ( the early ones went up really tight on the sides and the new style drop down so far as to allow roughly 4 times or more the volume area of the opening of the CDR to flow down over teh edges well below the opning where the pedestel sets in If you have oil backing up with that setupo, your truck is upside dowm )

 

[Hyde]

The previous owner said it was rebuilt, but I have no actual proof of that, its a pretty typical line when selling a vehicle. Ill try to get a look back in there.

 

[Hyde]

By the way everyone, I have the ATS intake snail I wont be using, seems like someone is always looking for one and I've sold one on here before. Let me know if you need it!

 

[Hyde]

Well update if anyone is interested, got everything installed. Ended up going with an HY35, exhaust housing on the HX was too big to fit using the ATS up pipe and pedestal. Wastegate is opening at 10psi, I'm comfortable with that until I get studs. If anyone has any questions ill be happy to answer.

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[79jasper]

So that turbo is off a cummins correct?

How's it sound?