The New NMB2 build is alive

[Black dawg]

What got me thinking about the pump is the inlet cone I think is the same (in the center of the discharge side of the pump) on both pumps. My thought was that if the pump turns opposite then the fuel lines would just have to be rerouted to go to the proper injector according to the firing order of the engine. He was talking about having some gear machined so it turns the DB4 pump the same direction of the original IP and it costing a fair amount of money. I am not even sure how the IP is driven although I do know that a 6.9/7.3 has timing gears which turns the cam opposite the crank and the 6.2/6.5 have a timing chain so the cam turns the same direction as the crank.
Another solution would be a reground cam designed to fire the cylinders the same as a Chevy engine when using the DB4 pump. Either one of these options sounds less costly than what was mentioned as a cost for the pump redo.

I have not done enough research on the difference of these 2 IP's but just throwing it out there for some input from someone who may have some intimate knowlege of how these IP's work.

you cant just change the rotation of the pump, the cam ring is rotation specific.

 

[Darrin Tosh]

It is a very impressive build,,,no doubt, as is RacinNdrummin. Serous Kudos to them. Cant wait to see what power they get out of them, and how long the motors last.

 

[Trying my best]

there's a new vid up it has light this time

 

[typ4]

If I am looking at it right and remember injection pump class correctly,The head and rotor on the injection pump is just a pumping element.
It will work either rotation, the metering head and cam ring are rotation specific. It fills with fuel from case pressure and pumps due to the cam ring. the piston /s just move back and forth to dispense fuel.

 

[Diesel JD]

I posted this because I'm friends with NMB2 and for better or worse it is a topic of interest here as much as over at PSN. It's a thing of beauty and I know a lot of people here will appreciate the hard work that went into it. I don't think I'll link anymore stuff directly as we now have the links to PSN posted on this thread. Really some groundbreaking stuff has been done in this build and I've always thought this kind of thing should be tried. I simply don't have a deep enough wallet, nor anywhere near Justin's technical skills when it comes to all the fabbed parts that were involved in making that turbo work, so for the time being I can't make it happen. The conventional wisdom has been that the ceiling for streetable power in these trucks was closer to 200 than 300 HP and here is a build that in all likelihood renders that thinking obsolete, which is exciting news here, though we need to wait for dyno numbers to see just how much power it can really make. Even if someone doesn't want to go all in on a build like this, the tech info is still valuable to many of us here because the main idea of this build is that the turbo is one of the main limiting factors to all out power in an IDI....the big 3 made the kits to not blow headgaskets or break things on a stock or near stock engine with an average operator. If you want outside the box power you have to avoid the in the box turbo kits because they are not optimized to maximum power. I hope everyone enjoys the thread.l

 

[94IDIT]

I posted this because I'm friends with NMB2 and for better or worse it is a topic of interest here as much as over at PSN. It's a thing of beauty and I know a lot of people here will appreciate the hard work that went into it. I don't think I'll link anymore stuff directly as we now have the links to PSN posted on this thread. Really some groundbreaking stuff has been done in this build and I've always thought this kind of thing should be tried. I simply don't have a deep enough wallet, nor anywhere near Justin's technical skills when it comes to all the fabbed parts that were involved in making that turbo work, so for the time being I can't make it happen. The conventional wisdom has been that the ceiling for streetable power in these trucks was closer to 200 than 300 HP and here is a build that in all likelihood renders that thinking obsolete, which is exciting news here, though we need to wait for dyno numbers to see just how much power it can really make. Even if someone doesn't want to go all in on a build like this, the tech info is still valuable to many of us here because the main idea of this build is that the turbo is one of the main limiting factors to all out power in an IDI....the big 3 made the kits to not blow headgaskets or break things on a stock or near stock engine with an average operator. If you want outside the box power you have to avoid the in the box turbo kits because they are not optimized to maximum power. I hope everyone enjoys the thread.l

I agree with everything you said 100%, and although I am a member over at PSN and have been following the build, I appreciate you sharing this here.... I was kinda wondering who'd be the first to post this on OB

 

[DeepRoots]

Those wouldnt be FE heads by chance.
Dont over do it, they like some intake velocity.

yeah, just a lil cleanup and bowl work on the intake, no need to reshape anything. The outer exhaust looks like it has a weird leg, dunno what I want to do there yet.
was port matching my F427 intake... wow, that is dang near 1/4 of material to remove!!! looking good tho. I will go throw a picture in the gasser forum and keep this outta this thread.

 

[88 Ford]

I haven't read his thread but I believe it is a DB4 and DB2 hybrid. I guess kudos is in order, but it sounds like any other IDI to me. I'd like to see some numbers though.

It is a hybrid db2/db4. It uses the db4 head and the db2 mounting plate I believe. And the dyno numbers will be here in due time. I believe Russ is going to be there too.

 

[88 Ford]

I posted this because I'm friends with NMB2 and for better or worse it is a topic of interest here as much as over at PSN. It's a thing of beauty and I know a lot of people here will appreciate the hard work that went into it. I don't think I'll link anymore stuff directly as we now have the links to PSN posted on this thread. Really some groundbreaking stuff has been done in this build and I've always thought this kind of thing should be tried. I simply don't have a deep enough wallet, nor anywhere near Justin's technical skills when it comes to all the fabbed parts that were involved in making that turbo work, so for the time being I can't make it happen. The conventional wisdom has been that the ceiling for streetable power in these trucks was closer to 200 than 300 HP and here is a build that in all likelihood renders that thinking obsolete, which is exciting news here, though we need to wait for dyno numbers to see just how much power it can really make. Even if someone doesn't want to go all in on a build like this, the tech info is still valuable to many of us here because the main idea of this build is that the turbo is one of the main limiting factors to all out power in an IDI....the big 3 made the kits to not blow headgaskets or break things on a stock or near stock engine with an average operator. If you want outside the box power you have to avoid the in the box turbo kits because they are not optimized to maximum power. I hope everyone enjoys the thread.l

I agree with you also. It needed to be posted for everyone to see! And as far as going all out, RacinNdrummin is doing pretty close to a build that most could do, aside from the fabrication. But even with that, you could find someone that could do that for a decent enough price I am sure. I mean overall, he is retaining the stock compression and is studding a lot of the parts and is upgrading the turbo as well as doing more to it, but he should make really good power also. I look forward to his build being done too. These two builds are good for the idi world regardless.

 

[icanfixall]

The stated feeling about 200 to 300 hp makes me ask where is this hp at... The rear wheels or the crank... It does make a differance. If the machining is done correctly you will have a reliable engine that will live. One just can't cut and go make fast.. Then hope it stays together. Limits are dependant on the material being worked with. Our standard crank will handle whatever we dish out. Its in all the idi engines and built tuff. If the oil is taken care of you probably will never need to turn the crank. Having everything "blueprinted" will help develope the lost hp because of the drag created from a poorly machined off center bore be it mains, rods or cylinders. There is no end to how close you machine something. You can always measure a smaller demention but you need to accept how far you want to go. Most here can't see or feel the differance is a demension of being off by a hundred thousands. Being of by one thousands is something you can catch a finger nail with. So just machining everything straight will loosen up the engine and new found power is available. Now match all the injectors. CC the heads, precups and valve ****** Now every cylinder is getting the same air into it and the same fuel squirt. Balancing all the combustion explosions makes for better power. Think about a gas engine with a plug thats not fireing properly. That cylinder will be down on power. The power pulse to the rotating crank is affected. Then a slight vibration occurs. Loss of power. Its a big balancing act to make an engine run at its best. Cleaning up the air in and out ports (porting the heads) will, not can make a big differance in how fast the air gets in and out. A turbo intake like what we have is a large air tank with said amount of pressure. That pressure is built up on the intake valve. As the valve cracks open it rushes in and continues to fill from said tank till the valve closes. The tank never goes mt or you would see the gauge fluxuanting. Get the air in.. Make the bang to send the crank turning true. Then run it like you want. Making safe hp is easy with the right machining. I'm no expert. An expert knows lots about one thing. I know a little about a lot of things...

 

[88 Ford]

I totally agree with everything you said. On top of that, it makes an engine more likely to last because there is less stress on the engine. I firmly believe that it is more than possible to hit 300hp/500lb-ft with our engines and still be reliable. I mean Rotaryboots over at TDS hit, iirc, 296hp and 486lb-ft on just 20psi. But he did have a lot of work into his engine, like what he called a fire ring (but I believe it might be the Hypermax C-ring), a Delta cam, a 99 PSD turbo, and propane. All that just signifies to me that it can be done. Gary, have you dynoed your truck yet?

 

[Thatguy]

over on dts there is a 6.5L turbo (599 block i believe) making 303 rwhp and 59? rwtq....... and surviving. that plus 10% should be the goal for a ford engine....... Chevy can never be better than ford in my universe.

 

[bobbywalter]

over on dts there is a 6.5L turbo (599 block i believe) making 303 rwhp and 59? rwtq....... and surviving. that plus 10% should be the goal for a ford engine....... Chevy can never be better than ford in my universe.

dayyum

 

[bobbywalter]

The stated feeling about 200 to 300 hp makes me ask where is this hp at... The rear wheels or the crank... It does make a differance. If the machining is done correctly you will have a reliable engine that will live. One just can't cut and go make fast.. Then hope it stays together. Limits are dependant on the material being worked with. Our standard crank will handle whatever we dish out. Its in all the idi engines and built tuff. If the oil is taken care of you probably will never need to turn the crank. Having everything "blueprinted" will help develope the lost hp because of the drag created from a poorly machined off center bore be it mains, rods or cylinders. There is no end to how close you machine something. You can always measure a smaller demention but you need to accept how far you want to go. Most here can't see or feel the differance is a demension of being off by a hundred thousands. Being of by one thousands is something you can catch a finger nail with. So just machining everything straight will loosen up the engine and new found power is available. Now match all the injectors. CC the heads, precups and valve ****** Now every cylinder is getting the same air into it and the same fuel squirt. Balancing all the combustion explosions makes for better power. Think about a gas engine with a plug thats not fireing properly. That cylinder will be down on power. The power pulse to the rotating crank is affected. Then a slight vibration occurs. Loss of power. Its a big balancing act to make an engine run at its best. Cleaning up the air in and out ports (porting the heads) will, not can make a big differance in how fast the air gets in and out. A turbo intake like what we have is a large air tank with said amount of pressure. That pressure is built up on the intake valve. As the valve cracks open it rushes in and continues to fill from said tank till the valve closes. The tank never goes mt or you would see the gauge fluxuanting. Get the air in.. Make the bang to send the crank turning true. Then run it like you want. Making safe hp is easy with the right machining. I'm no expert. An expert knows lots about one thing. I know a little about a lot of things...

looks like 300 hp is whp targeted to me.


not following the red text.

 

[towcat]

over on dts there is a 6.5L turbo (599 block i believe) making 303 rwhp and 59? rwtq....... and surviving. that plus 10% should be the goal for a ford engine....... Chevy can never be better than ford in my universe.

outside of sharing the DB2 injection system, there is nothing similiar between the GM and the IH diesels. construction and ruggedness is night and day between the two. Between the two, the GM is built to spin rpms and the IH is built to make power down low. imho it's easier to hop-up a GM on basic mods compared to a IH. if you really want to get crazy, it's going to cost on both.