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The Install Of A FMIC w/ 2nd Gen Banks Wastegated Sidewinder Into 9th Gen Truck

Discussion in 'IDI Tech Article' started by FORDF250HDXLT, Jan 5, 2015.

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  1. FORDF250HDXLT

    FORDF250HDXLT The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air Supporting Member

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    it's the installation of a FMIC (front mount intercooler) for 2nd gen banks wastegated sidewinders into 9th gen trucks.however many things can be used as a template/ideas for your turbo and trucks too.



    in the order of airflow;
    hot side.turbo out to intercooler:
    use existing blue banks 2.25" Hump Hose Coupler w/ upgraded T-bolt clamps 2 x 2.25" T-bolt clamps
    1 x 2.25" Aluminized Steel, 3.00" Radius, 45 Degree Mandrel Bend
    1 x 2.25" Silicone Straight Coupler with 2 x 2.25" T-bolt clamps OR a weld.
    1 x 2.25" Aluminized Steel, 3.00" Radius, 90 Degree Mandrel Bend.
    1 x 2.25" Silicone Straight Coupler with 2 x 2.25" T-bolt clamps OR a weld.
    1 x 2.25" Aluminized Steel, 3.00" Radius, 90 Degree Mandrel Bend.
    1 x 2.25" Silicone Hump Hose Coupler with 2 x 2.25" T-bolt clamps.
    1 x 2.25" Aluminized Steel, 3.00" Radius, 90 Degree Mandrel Bend.
    1 x Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 3.0" to 2.25" with 1 x 2.25" T-bolt clamp & 1 x 3" T-bolt clamp.
    .............. CXRACING #IC0022-BLK (or simply #IC0022 for non treated/bare aluminum) intercooler...................
    cold side.intercooler to engine intake:
    1 x Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 3.0" to 2.25" with 1 x 2.25" T-bolt clamp & 1 x 3" T-bolt clamp.
    1 x 2.25" Aluminized Steel, 3.00" Radius, 90 Degree Mandrel Bend.
    1 x 2.25" Silicone Hump Hose Coupler with 2 x 2.25" T-bolt clamps.
    1 x 2.25" Aluminized Steel, 3.00" Radius, 90 Degree Mandrel Bend.
    1 x 2.25" Silicone Straight Coupler with 2 x 2.25" T-bolt clamps OR a weld with 1.5" section of 2.25" pipe.
    1 x 2.25" Aluminized Steel, 3.00" Radius, 90 Degree Mandrel Bend.
    1 x 2.25" Silicone Hump Hose Coupler with 2 x 2.25" T-bolt clamps.
    into 093 ATS ('93 & '94 factory turbo) pressure chamber.


    the install of this FMIC w/ 2nd gen banks wastegated sidewinder into the 9th gen truck,is very straight forward and takes just a few hours.
    if a guy had a welder,no doubt the job wouldn't even take a whole day.

    so i started by removing the grill.
    [​IMG]

    then i removed the aux tru-cool trans cooler and the vertical rad brace (this is so the cooler can fit in close to the a/c condenser.) though the intercooler would slide up and in,in this truck without plow frame push plates,i went ahead and cut out the grill support T just the same as i had too,to install the cooler from the front into chip truck.i did this,so as to reduce air blockage as much as possible.which in turn raises the efficiency of of the cooler.
    [​IMG]

    fab up some L-brackets out of some steel stock.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    so now with the intercooler installed and mounted via the top.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    next i put the 90° reducing boots on temporarily to mark where my 2.25" pipes wouldn't clear.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    now,you can see the boots wont cut though over time due to flexing/vibration now that they're clear of rubbing the rad support.
    such a nice solid rad support,kinda makes ya cringe to cut it up,but knowing what an intercooler does,makes that feeling go away real quick.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    so i used a drill bit to ream around the inlet so the reducing pipe could slide into the pressure chamber,so i could fab up an inexpensive,quick and easy intercooler pressure chamber,using the factory 93/94 turbo/aftermarket ats unit.once the pipe fits,tap it down in past the o-ring groove for smooth air flow, jb weld to seal,then install a hump hose.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    place the grill back on.i simply screwed on a thin vertical strip for the grills bottom screw.as you can see,i ran out of time.the trans cooler is just hanging up there.i now need to just shorten the lines,and mount it down lower.i'll be cutting the center holes out and installing the 9th gen bumper cutouts like seen on EB f150's and all 94-97 psd trucks.
    (this bumper w/ center cutouts is what i replaced chips with too)
    this will allow all the airflow i'll need to trans cooler without stacking too many coolers up in the grill area (which i know is too much from experience.)
    [​IMG]


    so lastly,then i'll just install the pressure chamber,mark my pipes and take them up to the local welding shop and then install them.
    then,it's back to the IP to turn up it's fuel screw.......all the way.;Really
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 6, 2015
  2. FORDF250HDXLT

    FORDF250HDXLT The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air Supporting Member

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    prepare factory turbo/ats hat for intercooler pipe.

    buy a 2 1/8 ID exhaust pipe to fit inside.i used a 2 1/8 id x 2 1/8 OD.
    im running 2 1/4 pipe and my 2 1/4 coupler fits right over it very snugly.
    using a 1/2" drill bit,i was able to very,very easily and quickly hone the inside of the hat out just a tad bit for the pipe to slide in using grease on the fitting,and gently tapping into the hat with a hammer.gently now.if still snug,ream it out a little more with the drill.it doesn't take much.i went for like 30 seconds.you don't want it so tight that you crack the housing.very careful.ditch that 0-ring,and be sure to ream out the second collar past where the o-ring sits.you want the pipe to slide in past that groove so there is no unnecessary air turbulence.
    be sure to wash it all out now.you don't want those metal shavings going down the intake!

    now just seal it up using jbweld (or have it welded) around the outer rim.
    now notice,you have much more streamlined airflow into the hat than if you just put a boot on the outside.
    the other advantage,no taper! no hassle with blowing off the boot!
    much better solution all the way around.

    additionally you'll need 3 more parts if you have a banks turbo like i do,or if your in need for your current ats hat:

    1.a shorter bolt than the center pressure chamber bolt of the banks turbo (which is 4" long)
    grade 8 flange bolt. 3/8"–16 x 2 1/2"

    2. a 3/8 copper crush washer came to seal the chamber bolt from ats.
    i recommend using a 3/8" aluminum Stat-O-Seal instead.

    3.a lower pressure chamber gasket.Fel-Pro #60038 (use black rtv on both sides) OR Victor Reinz #G27098 (use black rtv on both sides) OR custom ordered to those gasket specs a reusable square cut o-ring.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]



    so the pressure chamber gets tapped and the boost fitting inserted.
    then it's set onto the intake,after tipping the compressor upwards to clear.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    next i held the pipes up and marked them with a straight edge,took them up to the local welding shop,and when complete simply installed them for the final results.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    sounds easy anyway right lol? it's because it is actually.good luck with yours!;Sweet
     
    saburai likes this.
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