Super cab sheet metal

[laserjock]

Anybody have a source for super cab cab floor parts? I've got some major rust issues in the rear floor of the cab. You ll get to see that when I post the update in the build thread. I've not seen any rear floor patch panels just front. I could piece it in with sheet metal but thought I would ask first.

While I'm at it, how hard is it to pull the cab. Think I'm going to have to to get to all the ugly.


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[RedTruck]

My extended cab, cab is for sale. Links to cl ad is in the marketplace. Floor was sandblasted and covered when I bought it.

 

[junk]

Try rock auto for rust panels. They have stuff buy a company called Sherman I believe. Several of the guys recommended them. I made my own panels in my crewcab. I needed the front floor patched just like you. I do have a metal brake/sheer for 20ga stuff, but you could make your own patches using a jig saw and a bench. It's always a toss up between fabbing or buying patches in my mind especially for floors.

To pull the cab is more cumbersome than hard. The biggest issue is make sure to pick it up in a way you don't damage it further. I prefer to chain at the back of the rear cab wall and front firewall. Then use a couple engine pullers to lift the cab. I set the primered cab on my frame about 2' from the engine and then painted it before moving it into final position.

 

[laserjock]

Thanks for the ideas guys. RedTruck, if I were going to make a trip like that to get a cab I would be looking for a crew cab. I've been pondering that anyway. I like the idea of a crew cab on a super cab chassis to shorten it up a bit. The extra space that a short box would leave between the bed and cab would be an excellent place for a tool box/fuel tank.. I think for now I'm going to do the best I can to patch the cab up and get the truck on the road. If I really like it as much as I think I will, I may start looking for a really clean crew cab from down south or out west. Need the truck running to be able to go get it though.

I know I can get the front parts from several places. It's looking like I will be piecing the rest of it in. I have seen several guys pull cabs by just running a 2x8 or the like through the door holes. Is that not acceptable? I guess some nylon lifting straps down to the cab would not be to bad. I have a chain hoist in the rafters that could pick it up.
It would seem like with the interior stripped out, it shouldn't be that heavy. I like the idea of fixing and priming then setting it on the frame to paint it. Lot easier to get a couple guys and set it in place that way.

 

[freebird01]

thats why i ended up scrapping my cab....the inter structure behind the outer skin on my ext cab was too bad to repair. there wasnt anything to align to to keep it straight.

 

[laserjock]

The rocker actually looks pretty good from underneath. It looks like just the floor and the outer skin. Common sense is telling me that's probably not the case once I cut into it but I can dream. If it's real bad, I may consider the crew cab swap a little early if I can find a good clean one somewhere in a reasonable vicinity. That's pretty tough around these parts. I actually stopped and looked at a ext cab 2wd yesterday that turned out to be not much better than mine. Guess I'll start cutting and welding and see where it takes me. I think I'll do the outter skins and the outer rockers with it on the truck then lift it off. Maybe the front floor too. The reason to lift it off is really the back structure and to just be able to get to the nooks and crannys easier. I really don't feel like laying on my back and trying to sandblast it and that's really what it needs.

The ****** is that I have a real clean single cab sitting in the back yard from OK and Texas. I've never seen one that clean. Its just a little short.

 

[freebird01]

this is what i was up against

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[RedTruck]

I once saw a thread where a guy welded in square tubing in place of the rockers and then used regular sheet metal to replace the floor. He did a great job. Looked like it belonged there when he was done (it was on an older FJ Cruiser).

To remove cab. Beat out the body mounts, remove the seat and use the seat holes to lift your cab (the nuts for my seats are removed so I just have the holes there). Have to remove the doors. Once you get it off the top of the frame you can lay the cab right on the cherry picker wheels and roll around the shop. I did it this way. Had to balance the cab with one arm and roll it with the other. A little cumbersome, but it worked.

 

[laserjock]

Ohh!! I get it. Lift from inside the cab with a engine hoist. I kinda like that.

I don't think mine is quite as bad as yours freebird. Hope not anyway. I know the outers arent that bad. Like I said the rockers in the center look to be at least intact. I'll put up pics when I start cutting.

 

[junk]

I originally lifted my stripped crewcab off the frame using 2x6's under the cab to pick it up. They did put small dents in the rockers where the 2x6's flexed and contacted them. Regarding lifting from the roof I would just make sure I didn't smash the drip edges with the straps hitting it. I did lift from the outside on my cab. I really like the idea of lifting from the seat bolt holes though.

If you have a chain hoist in the rafters though I would try to lift from the roof. I would just make sure to pad the straps really well so it doesn't damage anything. I've been amazed at how easily straps can put small dents in. Definitely don't use chains.