Suggestion on transmission coolers

blaz4wd

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Hi everyone I'm looking to get some suggestions on transmission coolers. I see a lot doing the switch to the ford 6.0 cooler but what year is it from and is there special fittings on them? At the moment I have the stock one in the radiator and a small cooler that was good for 10,000lbs. But trans temp gets between 180-210 during highway/freeway driving. So before we leave in July for the family camping trip towing a travel trailer I should upgrade. Specs 93 f250 7.3non turbo e40d trans. You guys helped me before and I'm thankful for that. So let me know what you guys are running and how you like them.
 

no mufflers

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I have two coolers mounted on my grille, they came off a tractor and are not really high quality but they work. I run the trans fluid just through them and not the radiator. they work really good on the highway when there is lots of airflow. at the 2015 rally in NH when we climbed MT Washington the trans temp got hot. I think it was due to the lack of air flow and the stock converter. im not sure how many people will recommend not using the radiator to aid in cooling vs just the aux cooler. I have heard both, but that's just what I did.
 

OLDBULL8

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I have the Tru-Cool 28K in my 99.5 pulling a 33FT 12,5K 5er. It does just fine with trans temp. I do have a trans temp gauge. Runs about 160* - 180*, you can run up to 230* with Dino and up to 310* with Syn. for short periods of time like 10 minutes.
You do want to go thru the radiator, then thru the Aux cooler and back to the trans. Liquid to liquid (Oil) is the most efficient cooling, Air to liquid (Oil) is secondary. You never want to series coolers, you need the volume of flow, the oil returned to the trans is what cools and lubricates the trans. bearings. The more fittings the oil has to pass thru, the less efficient the cooling effect.

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...hvqmt=e&hvbmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_6oeaihaqj_e

What size trailer are you hauling?

You would be wise to change to Synthetic in the trans. The oil from the trans to cooler comes from the TC which is a lot hotter than what's indicated on a trans temp gauge.
 
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blaz4wd

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I have the Tru-Cool 28K in my 99.5 pulling a 33FT 12,5K 5er. It does just fine with trans temp. I do have a trans temp gauge. Runs about 160* - 180*, you can run up to 230* with Dino and up to 310* with Syn. for short periods of time like 10 minutes.
You do want to go thru the radiator, then thru the Aux cooler and back to the trans. Liquid to liquid (Oil) is the most efficient cooling, Air to liquid (Oil) is secondary. You never want to series coolers, you need the volume of flow, the oil returned to the trans is what cools and lubricates the trans. bearings. The more fittings the oil has to pass thru, the less efficient the cooling effect.

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...hvqmt=e&hvbmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_6oeaihaqj_e

What size trailer are you hauling?

You would be wise to change to Synthetic in the trans. The oil from the trans to cooler comes from the TC which is a lot hotter than what's indicated on a trans temp gauge.

It's a 2011 29 ft salem cruize 26bhxl gvwr 5,400lbs. What type of synthetic transmission fluid are you running?
 

OLDBULL8

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Just read your thread on what preps to take.
I think your way off on the trailer weight, it's easy to load another 1K to 1.5K into the trailer. You should actually hook up and weigh the whole rig at a Cat scale or even a grain elevator scales so you know what you actually have.
One thing not mentioned before is, the trailer brake wiring under the trailer. Get some plastic loom and put it around all the wires, wire tie the wires up behind the axles best as you can. Plastic loom can be had at most any Auto store, 3/8" is big enough.
It's not fun going down a mountain at 85 MPH with broken brake wires. Pic of trailer with broken brake wires. $700 to replace all the brakes on the truck after that. That's a 30 FT 5er.
 

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blaz4wd

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Just read your thread on what preps to take.
I think your way off on the trailer weight, it's easy to load another 1K to 1.5K into the trailer. You should actually hook up and weigh the whole rig at a Cat scale or even a grain elevator scales so you know what you actually have.
One thing not mentioned before is, the trailer brake wiring under the trailer. Get some plastic loom and put it around all the wires, wire tie the wires up behind the axles best as you can. Plastic loom can be had at most any Auto store, 3/8" is big enough.
It's not fun going down a mountain at 85 MPH with broken brake wires. Pic of trailer with broken brake wires. $700 to replace all the brakes on the truck after that. That's a 30 FT 5er.
I just copied what the trailer read on the tag for the weight. I will check that out here in a day or so.
 

OLDBULL8

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I went from a Hayden to the Tru-cool, found quite a bit of difference in cooling. Had the Hayden on with the 30 ft 5er, now have the tru-cool on with the 33 ft 5er at 12,500#, probably closer to 14,000# loaded.
IIRC the Hayden was rated a little higher than the Tru-cool.
 

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blaz4wd

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And what size do I buy 18,000/20,000/28,000. How do you find that out. Because you don't want it to cold or over sized.?
 

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