N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
Full Access Member
Ok. I have to get to the store to get diesel for my truck AND the furnace, since we ran out while I was at work today and the oil guy cant come til monday.
First, the setup: Stock everything (7.3T) except the Carter elec. pump on my frame rail, run off a relay that gets it's close 12v from the top of the IP.
Ok... So I got home, and in a rush I went to do my new cold start ritual. (oh yeah, my GPC solenoid is crap). I turn the key to run (pump starts, but I kill it w its ground lift switch to not burn it out pumping into a still engine). I then go out to bridge the solenoid. In the friggin' dark... Usually, i've got a good sense of where the copper hammer I use is, even if its dim... But I think I may have accidentally bridged the full amperage to the pole on the GPC that has the two red wires, one of which I believe is the 12v+ signal wire that goes to either the IP, or the starter solenoid (iirc, it's the IP... the tippy top connector.
I tested the pump relay's worth by bridging it, and the pump came on. So, the relay might be bad, but i replaced it w a switch, kept the pump on, and re-glowed my plugs again... and with the key in run, the pump on, and heated plugs........ she just turns and turns and turns....... almost as if the internal IP switch is set to "oh no you friggin' don't"
It's cold in Maine. Any help would be very much appreciated. Any more tests I can do to narrow it down would help as well, if no one has a straight up solution. I already disconnected the batteries and she'll sit that way before I get any help. Thanks!
(i'll also mention that this setup I put in has worked well for over a year. the gpc bridge thing I started a couple months ago when the replacement solenoid failed... twice. belkin too... i gave up and grabbed the hammer!)
First, the setup: Stock everything (7.3T) except the Carter elec. pump on my frame rail, run off a relay that gets it's close 12v from the top of the IP.
Ok... So I got home, and in a rush I went to do my new cold start ritual. (oh yeah, my GPC solenoid is crap). I turn the key to run (pump starts, but I kill it w its ground lift switch to not burn it out pumping into a still engine). I then go out to bridge the solenoid. In the friggin' dark... Usually, i've got a good sense of where the copper hammer I use is, even if its dim... But I think I may have accidentally bridged the full amperage to the pole on the GPC that has the two red wires, one of which I believe is the 12v+ signal wire that goes to either the IP, or the starter solenoid (iirc, it's the IP... the tippy top connector.
I tested the pump relay's worth by bridging it, and the pump came on. So, the relay might be bad, but i replaced it w a switch, kept the pump on, and re-glowed my plugs again... and with the key in run, the pump on, and heated plugs........ she just turns and turns and turns....... almost as if the internal IP switch is set to "oh no you friggin' don't"
It's cold in Maine. Any help would be very much appreciated. Any more tests I can do to narrow it down would help as well, if no one has a straight up solution. I already disconnected the batteries and she'll sit that way before I get any help. Thanks!
(i'll also mention that this setup I put in has worked well for over a year. the gpc bridge thing I started a couple months ago when the replacement solenoid failed... twice. belkin too... i gave up and grabbed the hammer!)
