Sticky throttle cable fix

[Diesel JD]

Hey I know Midnight Rider or someone else here posted how to fix/free up a sticky throttle cable. Seems like it just needs some silicone lube but it seems like there was some trick to it. Anybody have any suggestions?

 

[towcat]

replace the cable.
I had a sticky one get stuck and hung at WOT.
it's not fun at all dealing that that.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Hey I know Midnight Rider or someone else here posted how to fix/free up a sticky throttle cable. Seems like it just needs some silicone lube but it seems like there was some trick to it. Anybody have any suggestions?

It takes about five minutes to have the entire accelerator-cable out and in your hands.

Hang it straight up and down, preferably behind the wood-stove or some equally hot place.

Using one of those sharp-nosed squirt-pump oilers, squirt some oil into the cable-housing at the top end.

Make sure to have a pile of old papers on the floor.

Every ten minutes or so, add some more oil.

Keep this up until the oil is freely running out the bottom.

Work the cable in and out every so often during this process.

Put the cable back in the truck and enjoy.



I have just started having a sticky accelerator issue that IS NOT the cable.

I think my million-mile pedal assembly is hanging up.

When I push the pedal, it will go a little, then sort of hang up, then give loose and go on down; especially when easing around and not really socking it to it.


Has anyone else had this dilemna yet ??


As soon as it quits being hot enough to hatch an egg, I am going to check it out.

 

[gatorman21218]

JD if you dont have a wood stove I can take it to work with me on monday. 110 degree heat index and Im sitting on top of a pole barn setting trusses. insane. lemme know

 

[international]

Mine broke. I replaced it from Advance Auto in about ten minutes for $30.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

I have just started having a sticky accelerator issue that IS NOT the cable.

I think my million-mile pedal assembly is hanging up.

When I push the pedal, it will go a little, then sort of hang up, then give loose and go on down; especially when easing around and not really socking it to it.


Has anyone else had this dilemna yet ??


As soon as it quits being hot enough to hatch an egg, I am going to check it out.

Yup just started doing the same dang thing today on Goldie.

 

[Diesel JD]

I could warm it up with a propane torch, not directly of course....that would be kinda dangerous. I has some ideas. I don't have that type of oiler can though. Have to figure out a substitute. Mine does stick closer to WOT. Maybe I should just follow TC advice and replace the thing. I hear the aftermarket ones don't exactly fit right without some modification though, is that correct?

 

[international]

I could warm it up with a propane torch, not directly of course....that would be kinda dangerous. I has some ideas. I don't have that type of oiler can though. Have to figure out a substitute. Mine does stick closer to WOT. Maybe I should just follow TC advice and replace the thing. I hear the aftermarket ones don't exactly fit right without some modification though, is that correct?

The one from Advance Auto went on perfect.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

JD if you dont have a wood stove I can take it to work with me on monday. 110 degree heat index and Im sitting on top of a pole barn setting trusses. insane. lemme know

Under the metal hunter-green roof of a similar pole barn, way up high in the loft, up in amongst the rafters, stacking wire-tied Alfalfa that has been sitting in the sun collecting heat all day is an even hotter place to be.

 

[Hyde]

The throttle cable is very easy to replace, also on a lot of these Fords ive had to trim the bottom of the pedal, it gets caught on the floor mat at WOT. Not very fun

 

[damac]

Im in cali and our clunker didn't have rust issues but was old all around. No way I would have tried bringing that cable back to life, the cheapo plastic guides were worn out as well.

I got a new cable and lubed it nicely. Can't say I like the way the cable is bent on the stock setup.

BUT what I found is that the bracket holding the pedal to the firewall was tweaking with force. I reinforced it between the firewall and where the bolts go through with metal to keep it solid. It helped just a bit with everything lining up.

Also there is too much slack with the new cable so I got a fishing weight to take up some of the room on the end where the cable meets the pedal. Still leave a bit of room of course for expansion, etc.

 

[idi traveler]

The throttle cable is very easy to replace, also on a lot of these Fords ive had to trim the bottom of the pedal, it gets caught on the floor mat at WOT. Not very fun

Strange that we find ways to fix this sort of thing, but toyota drives have to have recalls. One woman on TV said she was afraid to drive her car to the dealer to get it fixed. I wonder why she didn't just remove the floor mat for that trip. Oh well, the dumbing down of America.

I'm glad to see some of the younger drivers picking these old IDI's and working on them and exercising their problem solving skills. We are going to need them in the years to come.

 

[Rot Box]

I've always just detached mine from the IP and held it up as high as I could while letting oil drip down it. Then I spray the cable in the cab the best I can. Works good for a couple months at a time but its probably best to change it out.

 

[Diesel JD]

Alright guys I fixed it I think....It seems like it was more the throttle assy on the injection pump being sticky than the cable. Also the spring was relocated so it has shorter travel since it was worn a bit. I lubes the inside of the cable with some biodiesel as best as I could. It has full travel and no sticking even after some hard tests this afternoon. Thanks for the info. I should probably plan on replacing it sometime and have a cable or two to hand while they're still available since I plan on continuing to drive IDIs.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I can't speak for everyone else's experiences with new replacement cables; but, when I did look into just getting a new replacement one for my 1985, NONE of the ones I found at any of the common sources were the same length as the original.

All that I found were some six-inches shorter or longer than the factory-original, which is probably why so many I see sort of sit at a cocked angle; and, so being, the plastic sleeve-thingie soon starts binding and snagging on itself.

The lack of an exact length replacement is what led me to rejuvenate the one I have.

Way back in about 1986, I was on my way home late one night, when I let off the fuel and it just kept on going.

No reason to panic or anything; I just put it in NEUTRAL and killed the engine when I found a place to land.

What I found that caused this scenario was a chunk of that plastic sleeve had caught in the spring and would not let the cable release.

A few minutes with a sharp knife and needle-nose pliers and we were back in business.

It stayed un-touched until after the Cummins swap, at which time I installed a Vernier locking throttle-cable.

Whenever I set the hand-throttle, that silly plastic sleeve would kink up, instead of sliding back into itself.

So, I set in on it again with the sharp knife and needle-nose; and, this time, I didn't quit until the entire plastic sleeve was completely gone.

Since the removal, my throttle has been much nicer. (except for the recent issue going on with the worn-out pedal assembly)


Knowing what I now know, were I starting over again in 1985, one of the very first things I would do would be to eliminate that sleeve; it serves no beneficial purpose that I can see.