Steer Me Right

[Pullet]

The steering was making some extra noise yesterday and feeling a bit rough, and the problem looks to be an unauthorized fluid discharge from the bottom of the box, along the (sector?) shaft that runs the pitman arm.

Looks like the bottom seals need attention, and I might just learn how as I try getting the pitman off and those in. I'm hoping/arranging to switch to hydroboost soon, and definitely don't want future fluid loss, so my thought was to get steering pump, box, and reservoir then.

Should I instead keep my pump? It hasn't ever whined much, are replacements likely better or worse? That might determine whether box and reservoir should go on now, perhaps even be installed by an experienced individual..

Speaking of which.. Anyone near Albany willing to help?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

My old shop foreman used to have his own repair shop. His experience was that if this seal is leaking, just replace the sector. He said the new seal only worked about half the time.

 

[mblaney]

My preference would be to install a new gear but I have successfully changed the sector shaft seal; a nice way to get it out is to remove the snap ring, start the truck and 'bump' the steering stop. The pressure spike should blow the seal out. Shut it down so you don't ruin the pump. Obviously this will blow oil out so have your wife under the truck with a coffee tin to catch it


If you are going to hydroboost, I found a great deal on a new pump with the reservoir you need. Look for a full replacement by A-1 Cardone p/n 207238. It comes with the reservoir that has two return ports. I bought mine for $69 CDN.

 

[Pullet]

I hoped to do this in the truck; seemed easiest. Pitman arm off with no problem. Snap ring won't budge.
Tried cleaning it and using snap ring pliers, which couldn't get it to compress. Stuck an awl into one end and tapped with a hammer to try to budge/break free, no luck.
I'm running out of names to call it, any help on breaking that damn ring free? If I don't get it soon I'll probably take the gear out, but that's not my preference.

 

[Pullet]

It's all out of the truck now, and it looks like the bottom seal is pooched out and blocking the snap ring.
Trying to figure out whether to chisel it open or farm it out/get another box.

 

[chris142]

We replaced tons of those seals when I worked for U-Haul. Seemed to work most of the time.

 

[pelky350]

I fought mine for like a couple
Hours, my local wrecking yard had one for like 30-40
Dollars. Bolted in and went in my way still going 3 years later

 

[Pullet]

So my 4wd driver side hub was slipping with ratcheting noise, leaving me 2wd, and was full of greasy grit and metal shavings when opened (which was another struggle, t25 to the rescue). Metal is from the gear inside that quickly pops out with the biggest spring under it, held (in this case) by a single screw at its perimeter rather than a wussy lockring.. seems like nonstandard installation and nonstandard wear, with the middle of this gears teeth chewed out.

Time for another lock? Something other than Warn 9790? Anyone ever seen anything like this? Problems upstream in the driveline, or just gunky goop interference?

 

[mblaney]

New thread might get you answers quicker... Those parts are "consumable" and easily replaced (I quote consumable because most probably don't wear them out). The lock parts are made of some light weight material (aluminum?) and are intended to fail before more expensive parts.

It is important that the locking hub is installed correctly, not too much grease, and I prefer full synthetic. If the parts are too sticky they might not fully engage before you put the power to it - partially stripping the splines.

Nothing wussy about how it is installed, all forces are radial from the spindle to the hub so the single screw is really only holding it in place while you assemble it.

I doubt you have problems upstream. If the u-joint was messed up you would notice in your steering. When you are servicing the hub check an re-lubricate the needle bearing that the axle stub rides on. Not very expensive to replace if needed - but you need to press it in, not hammer!