Starting problem when warm!!

88 Ford

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So I have a big problem!! When I cold start my struck it starts just fine. If I come out and start it again soon enough it will start with no problem. But if I leave it longer than about 30 minutes, I can go out and crank on it and it won't start!! I can hear it try to start but it just doesn't. Its crazy!! But anyway when it does that, I can leave it until its totally cold which is about 3 hours roughly and it starts right up. What is wrong with my truck? I have never seen this before. Oh and another thing. Could this problem possibly be related to my truck stalling about 3 times in the last 3 months?
 

Agnem

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Thats a classic problem actually. Heat soak on a worn IP. You can verify that is the problem by dumping a room temperature 12 oz can of water on the hydraulic head (the part where the lines come out) of the IP when your experiencing this problem. Wait 30 seconds and try to start. If it starts right up, then your IP is shot.

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* W A R N I N G W A R N I N G W A R N I N G *
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This proceedure can cause permenent damage to your injection pump.

Causing the hyrdaulic head to contract on a pump can result in a sheared input shaft. Use this test as a last ditch effort to get the truck to start and confirm the IP is shot. If the IP is not bad, it very well may be after this test!
 

88 Ford

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Well it looks lik I'm gettin a Moose pump sooner than I anticipated. Lol. O well.
 

88 Ford

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So if there was a screeching sound coming from the truck was it the injection pump? Cus it sure was screaming off and on!! But anyway I never tried the water test because I am scared that I won't get the truck home if I do. But I'm pretty sure it is the IP.
 

Agnem

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No it won't make any noise if it is failing. Think of the hydraulic head as a distributor cap. The rotor goes around and instead of passing electricity, it passes fluid. If the gap between the holes gets too big, the fluid just goes all over instead of into the other hole. Putting the water on shrinks the cap around the rotor. In proper trim, this is almost a friction fit to begin with. If it is worn, you have a gap you can close with the shrinkage. If the gap is non existant, well.... *snap*
 

NJKen

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Thats a good way to put it Mel. To add a little though, if the pump has over 100K on it it most likely has some wear in it. These pumps can last forever sometimes but usually they really start to fade out between the 100K and 200K mark.
Ken
 

88 Ford

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I thought the guy who rebuilt my motor replaced the injection pump but I'm not positive but it sounds like the problem. I don't know!! But I'm pretty sure it doesn't have that many miles on it. Mel how do I get ahold of the information to get a Moose Pump. I don't know exactly when I'll get it but I will get it for sure I know that. I might use tax money on the motor rather than painting my truck now. While I'm at it I might get the head studs and the turbo housing upgrade and see what I can hit power wise. Sounds like I'll have some fun during the downtime!!
 

VanBoy

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My friend had the exact same symptoms. We never got to the part of putting 'cold' water on the IP though. Everyone we asked kept saying it was the IP going bad.

His problem ended up being the starter (it died so that's why we changed it and batteries) and his batteries were weak. The starter warming up required more power from the already dieing batteries and it was the cranking speed all a long. It wasn't cranking fast enough ( though we THOUGHT it did). We thought it was spinning fast enough.... but it wasn't. After the new batteries (950CCA) and a new gear reduction starter, it fired right up w/ very little GP-ing.
 

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