Starter switch wiring to replace stock pushrod style switch

[GMcE]

I am looking for answers as to what wires to hook to toggle and which wires to hook to push button switch(start) ? I am needing to eliminate the slider switch all together without any future or present issues. In other words I would like it to be the same as it is with switch now . Just replaced with a series of toggles and a push button start. It already has a push button glow plug switch. Any help would sure be great.

 

[GMcE]

Sorry .... it is a 1984 F-350 6.9 diesel dually

 

[franklin2]

It's not going to be easy, the original switch is complex.

You are going to need a double pole single throw momentary switch like this with 4 terminals.

Morris 70262 Heavy Duty Momentary Contact Toggle Switch, DPST, (On)-Off, Screw Terminals: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Morris 70262 Heavy Duty Momentary Contact Toggle Switch, DPST, (On)-Off, Screw Terminals: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

You are going to need a 3PDT maintained toggle with 6 terminals like this. You will lose your ACC function with this switch. If you want that you will need a different switch or add another switch.

FULL THROTTLE - Heavy Duty 3PST ON-Off Toggle Switch 20A 125V, 15A 250V Spade Terminals (31A): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

FULL THROTTLE - Heavy Duty 3PST ON-Off Toggle Switch 20A 125V, 15A 250V Spade Terminals (31A): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

The two yellow wires are power that feed both switches. So the yellow will go to two of the momentary start switch terminals, and three of the maintained toggle switch terminals.

Brown pink will go to one the momentary contacts

Red lightblue will go to the other momentary contact

Red/lightgreen will go to one of the maintained contacts

Grey/yellow will go to another maintained contact

Black/lightgreen will go to the last maintained contact.

Here's the diagram for a 1985 diesel. Should be very close to your 1984.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[TNBrett]

There are other options if the wiring is intimidating. I did this on a keep I built for a guy.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

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There obviously was a little bit of fabrication involved, but I didn’t have to modify the wiring at all to make it work. The ignition switch and all the linkages were shot in his column, so I did this and installed a new column without an ignition switch. I did end up adding a security system to it that would only allow it to start with key fob in your pocket.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It's not going to be easy, the original switch is complex.

That's why I kept the key switch in my Blue Truck and only have the start function on a separate push button.

 

[TNBrett]

Here’s a vijayo of it
https://youtube.com/shorts/BP4Zsc8GxMk?feature=share

 

[GMcE]

Awesome thanks guys I got it figured out somewhat... It starts and runs now anyway.. however I'm wondering what to do with the brown and black wires that are together in the terminal. And there is a purple wire also. And I can't seem to hook the pink and brown wire up without it wanting to start in the on position instead of the start position. Any input on this? Also I just went with a standard 4 position ignition. Off_on_start_acc. But every time I hooked the one wire up it starts in the on position.

 

[GMcE]

Btw. That pull start was pretty trick! I really liked that idea. I just don't have the means to fab anything at the moment. But great idea.

 

[franklin2]

Awesome thanks guys I got it figured out somewhat... It starts and runs now anyway.. however I'm wondering what to do with the brown and black wires that are together in the terminal. And there is a purple wire also. And I can't seem to hook the pink and brown wire up without it wanting to start in the on position instead of the start position. Any input on this? Also I just went with a standard 4 position ignition. Off_on_start_acc. But every time I hooked the one wire up it starts in the on position.

There are no black wires. There is a black with lightgreen dots, and a black with lightblue dots. Over the years these colors fade, so it may be hard to figure out which one is which.

The black with lightgreen dots runs your wipers, cluster, radio, and other various accessories.

The black with lightblue dots and the pink/white wires are just grounds for the indicator lights. The factory switch has a special set of two contacts, that when the switch is in the start position, it grounds these two wires, and that forces all those lights on, to test the bulbs. So you do not need these two wires, just tape them off.

Any other problems you are having are because you used a single pole switch. You have bunched everything together. So all the hot circuits in the truck "see each other" because they are connected at all times, you have them all under one connection. Same with any "start" wires, they are all tied together. This can cause feedback problems, which is why the factory switch had several sections or several poles to it.