Sourcing an OE clutch fork

Trevtron

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im having a difficult time finding a new or used OE clutch fork for my 83 F-250 w/ T-19. Do any of y’all have a good used one? Tried sourcing one through the dealer route with no luck, reason I’m looking for one is that are which makes contact with the pivot ball is gouged out badly. I was able to source a pivot ball though.

The after market one I bought is slightly different and not sure if it would pose any problems or not. Apparently our 6.9 with the T19 4 speed took the same clutch fork as the trucks with the 460 gasser.

Problem with the aftermarket clutch fork is the end which engages the throw out bearing is radiused slightly different. Shop said they could grind it down better but a good used OE one would be best.

The pics show my original clutch fork with part # E3TA-7515 DC, and a screenshot of the aftermarket unit, an ATP part # ZA-126. Aftermarket one has my Ford clutch fork listed in its applications chart but it’s not an exact match.

The transmission shop with my truck has strongly encouraged me to source an original clutch fork versus using an aftermarket one. Thanks
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Trevtron

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My old one, it’s worn out bad where the pivot ball makes contact because it hadn’t been greased.
 

Thewespaul

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I found a used one on eBay? Can’t tell if it’s in any better shape than yours. Maybe call borg Warner and see if they can get it?
 

Trevtron

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Found a bunch of OE clutch forks for the ZF5, part # E7TZ-7515 A.

not certain if it would work with my T19 yet, they look similar...been googling it to see, dang chart above at least shows me all the part #’s for all applications including part # upgrades.

Probably an omen to switch to a ZF5 transmission, lol
 
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Koch13351

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I was in the same dilemma except the gouging was where it contacts the TOB. Same cause: no grease. I had absolutely no luck with any aftermarket forks. They would slip right off of the TOB. I ended up running a few TIG weld passes to stack up material over the damaged spots and with some die grinder finesse I basically have a new OEM fork. To do all that in the pocket the pivot rides in would definitely be tricky, but a steady hand, patience, and some stone bits like those used for porting would do it. Seems like a lot of work for something you can supposedly buy at any parts store for around $30, but for me it was my only option after 4 different aftermarket forks from 3 different parts stores wouldn’t work. I considered squeezing the fork end in a vise to close it up on one of them so it would engage the TOB better, but with my luck it would end up causing problems somehow


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Trevtron

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Shops going to fab the one I found online some to make the geometry absolutely correct, never thought I’d find a part on an 80’s ford which was so hard to source.

Makes me want to start hoarding parts in my garage...basement, attic storage, lol
 

Trevtron

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I know what you’re saying, I work in the industry. But never mind OE or NOS stuff out there, even in aftermarket offerings some things are just plain scarce. And the aftermarket parts aren’t always a great quality or a good fit.

And damn, I’m getting old...I remember my dad driving home in his new at the time 1985 F250 diesel, time moves fast
 

Trevtron

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Just following up,

the mechanic who worked on my truck has been working on them since they were new, that’s a relief and he seemed very meticulous.
He did a superb job!

I did the new hydraulics, pedal bushing. The mechanic did the clutch fork and pivot ball and that 12” LUK clutch kit install.

My ol truck is finally shifting like a a dream come true! Grandpa would be smiling if he could drive his old truck today.

Thanks for finding a mechanic who does that kind of quality work and with that kind of experience at most shops anymore that understand the particular nature of our diesel trucks
 

Billsplawn

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Trevtron,

I have the same issue. I need a clutch fork for my 86 f250 with the 460. I saw your shop fabbed one for ya. Any details on that? They to get this thing back on the road. Thanks!
 

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