This is why, drive slow and chain up, or stay home
So what did you do with your truck today?
- Thread starter GOOSE
- Start date
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I know, but I rarely do what I'm supposed to.
divemaster5734
Full Access Member
Appreciate the product link.Complete performance offers this, I think you can by just the plug mount by itself without the charger
Block Heater Bumper Plug Kit
Block Heater Bumper Plug Kit No more block heater cord hanging from the front bumper or low batteries from not driving your truck lately. With this kit you get a nice, solid mounted 110v receptacle that connects to your block heater and trickle charger (supplied with this kit) and powers...cpaddict.com
I found the charger and splitter separately for a lot less, minus the steel plate they fabricate to make their kit.
Really like the charger, but am a little concerned about the splitter.
It's only rated for 15amps, so if the batteries aren't fully charged there's a risk of pulling up to 22 amps, 5 max for each battery, and 12 for the heater.
It'll work for a time, but eventually will melt the cord contacts.
As long as the batteries are good, and it's only on trickle charge, then the heater enabled won't overload the splitter's rating.
Besides, I only want the heater on for a few hours before use, otherwise will not only wear it out the heater element prematurely, but the power bill would be brutal.
If the heater was on 24/4 x 30 days then that's 1,380 watts load @ .15KWH = $4.96 per day, $149.04 per month. ($9 a day, $273 month for both at max load), the cord is only rated for 1600 watts, both at FLA will draw 2530w.
Still looking at several options for a permanent install, but have the batteries hooked up for now.
Not sure which method I'll use to remotely enable the heater without having pop the hood.
Have to swap the axles with the reverse shackle kits first and see what's left of the front bumper, fab up some kind of mounting bracket for the charger and heater relay, and probably cut those 110v 15a connector ends off and swap to 20amp twist-lock connector to make a better circuit.
DougBoy66
Full Access Member
See, now these are things that I don't remember to think about. Most because, even though I can manage to do a lot of things, that Eelektrisical is like VooDoo magic to my poor brain
divemaster5734
Full Access Member
Indeed, you are Blessed. Unfortunately I spent my entire life in the field, and am now cursed by the compulsion to delve deep into the dark forces until my last remaining brain cell from the 1970's is left quivering uncontrollably.
I'm just thankful I'm not an actual diesel mechanic, it allows me to continue to work on these trucks in relative blissful ignorance, completely unaware of the trials and tribulations that await...lol
Old Goat
Full Access Member
What did I do today? just drove her to town. Stopped at HF to check what New year sale things are still running. Looks like to the 8th, tomorrow.
Picked up a Hydraulic Crimper. crimp14GA to 0 Cable.
Then a Rivet Nut Setter Kit. Will do 10-24, 1/4-20, 5/16-18
M5, M6 & M8
Didn`t know I needed one, but want to install a Handle on the Pass
side "A" Pillar so it helps my Wife get in. She is short on one end...
Then a small Air Ratchet, wanted one for a while, and it jumped in the cart.
A heat Gun marked down to $9.99, I keep a few on the shelf, sometimes they are not long lived, good to have on hand.
Have one in both Shops and the garage.
I buy the Bungee cord in the 25ft package, and then make my own
The lengths I need. I keep the old spring hooks, then push the new cord in, bend the end over and Hog Ring it.
My 85 F-250 has the interior out of it in the bed. I covered it with a tarp for the winter and Bungee`d it down.
Connect the Hook to the frame or what ever there is, then stretch it up to the grommet cut off, pull through the hole and Hog Ring it.
Buy the Hog Rings at tractor Supply, and will need the Hog Ring Plier.
Had to drive the truck and warm up the engine, the Mice were complaining they needed some heat, cold under that Hood.
trying to be a good Land Lord.
Goat
Picked up a Hydraulic Crimper. crimp14GA to 0 Cable.
Then a Rivet Nut Setter Kit. Will do 10-24, 1/4-20, 5/16-18
M5, M6 & M8
Didn`t know I needed one, but want to install a Handle on the Pass
side "A" Pillar so it helps my Wife get in. She is short on one end...
Then a small Air Ratchet, wanted one for a while, and it jumped in the cart.
A heat Gun marked down to $9.99, I keep a few on the shelf, sometimes they are not long lived, good to have on hand.
Have one in both Shops and the garage.
I buy the Bungee cord in the 25ft package, and then make my own
The lengths I need. I keep the old spring hooks, then push the new cord in, bend the end over and Hog Ring it.
My 85 F-250 has the interior out of it in the bed. I covered it with a tarp for the winter and Bungee`d it down.
Connect the Hook to the frame or what ever there is, then stretch it up to the grommet cut off, pull through the hole and Hog Ring it.
Buy the Hog Rings at tractor Supply, and will need the Hog Ring Plier.
Had to drive the truck and warm up the engine, the Mice were complaining they needed some heat, cold under that Hood.
trying to be a good Land Lord.
Goat
divemaster5734
Full Access Member
Nice crimper, I usually get the max 2/0 or max 600 MCM ones, so I can repurpose welding cables.What did I do today? just drove her to town. Stopped at HF to check what New year sale things are still running. Looks like to the 8th, tomorrow.
Picked up a Hydraulic Crimper. crimp14GA to 0 Cable.
Then a Rivet Nut Setter Kit. Will do 10-24, 1/4-20, 5/16-18
M5, M6 & M8
Didn`t know I needed one, but want to install a Handle on the Pass
side "A" Pillar so it helps my Wife get in. She is short on one end...
Then a small Air Ratchet, wanted one for a while, and it jumped in the cart.
A heat Gun marked down to $9.99, I keep a few on the shelf, sometimes they are not long lived, good to have on hand.
Have one in both Shops and the garage.
I buy the Bungee cord in the 25ft package, and then make my own
The lengths I need. I keep the old spring hooks, then push the new cord in, bend the end over and Hog Ring it.
My 85 F-250 has the interior out of it in the bed. I covered it with a tarp for the winter and Bungee`d it down.
Connect the Hook to the frame or what ever there is, then stretch it up to the grommet cut off, pull through the hole and Hog Ring it.
Buy the Hog Rings at tractor Supply, and will need the Hog Ring Plier.
Had to drive the truck and warm up the engine, the Mice were complaining they needed some heat, cold under that Hood.
trying to be a good Land Lord.
Goat
It's a lot cheaper than paying for 20' of new 1/0 when 20 year old 2/0 is even better conductor with more robust insulation. They all do 8-12 tons of force, just take notice when doing crimps, I almost never use the listed die's, and go 1 or 2 sizes smaller, and remember to slide your heat shrink sleeve over the wire first or it may not go on after the crimp.
They do as good a job as is necessary for our automotive and even residential service wiring, the ones that do a cute little hex crimp and cost over $2,000 for the kit are serious overkill.
I got tired of the Greenlee kits disappearing from trucks, so fitted all the residential crew trucks with a $30 set.
Not only got the job done, they quit disappearing.
Guess the dope dealers weren't interested.
kbenz
Full Access Member
Then a Rivet Nut Setter Kit. Will do 10-24, 1/4-20, 5/16-18
M5, M6 & M8
Didn`t know I needed one, but want to install a Handle on the Pass
side "A" Pillar so it helps my Wife get in. She is short on one end...
I use mine all the time. sure beats a self tapper
Installed my new headlights. Was surprisingly easy to R&R. Take grille out, replace, put grille back in.
Spent more time messing with the harness and securing it down than I did anything else...
Tried putting LED turn/markers in, but for some reason the turn part wouldn't work. Put the Candescent bulbs back in, worked fine.
Spent more time messing with the harness and securing it down than I did anything else...
Tried putting LED turn/markers in, but for some reason the turn part wouldn't work. Put the Candescent bulbs back in, worked fine.
Relay wasn't the problem brother, it wouldn't even blink once on one side, and the other was very dim. Lights were internally resisted and I believe it was too much for this old harness.
DougBoy66
Full Access Member
So I had a small set back. For some reason the water pump that was good when I did the engine tear down, clearly didn't appreciate the clean up and fresh paint. It never passed pressure check( technically vacuum test) So installed a new one. Fill the system using this gaget
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It uses compressed air across a venturi to create vacuum. It held steady for 5 minutes so I hooked it up to the hose and let it suck all the new antifreeze into it's belly
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now it is on the block heater for the night
