So what did you do with your truck today?

Nero

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Replaced my injectors in an attempt to solve a smokey cold start issue.

I also took apart the rear right door to figure out why the electric locks weren't working anymore.
Have power to the solenoid, guess the solenoid is bad. I buttoned it back up for now. I eventually need to get the electric lock parts for the front doors, as the front doors came off a truck that didnt have e locks.

Gonna drive er to the in laws tomorrow, about a 40 mile round trip, going to help them load their camper onto their idi in prep for a camping trip we all have next weekend. Going to Cannon Beach :Thumbs Up
 

KansasIDI

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I went and got a parts truck today. 84 F250 with Arrowcraft dually conversion and a 7.3 IDI. I was going to go get it last weekend, but the guy was busy.

The service truck did all right pulling it, pretty slow, of course lol

I bought the truck for the engine, after I unloaded it off the trailer, it took me about an hour to get everything set up and get it running. I just used a jerry can full of waste motor oil. Fired right off after I got all the air out of the lines. Seemed like it ran all right, there was barely any blow by, took about another three hours and pulled the engine out of it.

I forgot how much I love getting a crusty old engine running again, probably one of my favorite feelings lol

I worked in the dirt instead of in my shop, I needed a reminder that lots of people do this stuff in the dirt all the time lol.

In the last engine pic, you can see that there is a belt driven hydraulic pump. The truck was originally a balebed truck, lock up clutch still works on the pump, and spins like it should. Obviously, it has all of the bracketry and belt drive included. I think it’s pretty cool, but probably not something I’ll use, since I don’t think it will work with my upgraded fan clutch or with an intercooler. And I can’t really think of anything to use a hydraulic system for… I suppose I’ll hang onto it for now though.

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Then my dad called me and wanted me to come help him put the track back on his old excavator, took a bit over an hour to get that going again.

Then I cleaned up and picked up all my tools and such
 
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IDIBRONCO

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I went and got a parts truck today.

I was going to go get it last weekend, but the guy was busy.
I wondered about that until I read the second part. Do you remember who sold it to you? Not related, but I finally remembered the name of the scrap yard at the south end. It was Christner Salvage. Dale Christner owned it. his son was a couple of years behind me in school.
In the last engine pic, you can see that there is a belt driven hydraulic pump. The truck was originally a balebed truck, lock up clutch still works on the pump, and spins like it should. Obviously, it has all of the bracketry and belt drive included. I think it’s pretty cool, but probably not something I’ll use, since I don’t think it will work with my upgraded fan clutch or with an intercooler. And I can’t really think of anything to use a hydraulic system for… I suppose I’ll hang onto it for now though.
Definitely keep ahold of it. I'm sure that you can come up with something cool to use it for. FYI, I was told that you only want to run your engine at around 1500 RPM max with those engaged. He told me that if you forget to turn the pump off and drive down the road, you'll burn out the pump. I won't consider that to be gospel, but that's the way we ran his bale bed. I'll just stick to that theory until someone proves it wrong.
 

KansasIDI

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I wondered about that until I read the second part. Do you remember who sold it to you? Not related, but I finally remembered the name of the scrap yard at the south end. It was Christner Salvage. Dale Christner owned it. his son was a couple of years behind me in school.
BC Auto Salvage run by Ben Castleberry
Definitely keep ahold of it. I'm sure that you can come up with something cool to use it for. FYI, I was told that you only want to run your engine at around 1500 RPM max with those engaged. He told me that if you forget to turn the pump off and drive down the road, you'll burn out the pump. I won't consider that to be gospel, but that's the way we ran his bale bed. I'll just stick to that theory until someone proves it wrong.
This is how we treat our feed trucks, the 01 and 11 Dodges, but with 1800 RPM maximum. Have never had a failure or fault other than hydraulic hoses getting old and falling apart, the 01 has had a bale bed since 2008 and the 11 got one when it was new
 

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Between yesterday and today I installed a new set of Mahle pistons onto the rods and rod bearings and crammed them into their respective cram holes
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Then I installed a new cam gear. The instructions said to cook it in oil so, I did then pressed it on and installed the cam
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DougBoy66

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I couldnt get this picture of the cam and cam gear installed on my last post so here it is
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Also since it has been stuck in my head I thought I would share what I see looking at these pistons
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KansasIDI

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I went and got a parts truck today. 84 F250 with Arrowcraft dually conversion and a 7.3 IDI. I was going to go get it last weekend, but the guy was busy.

That engine has a 1993 valve cover sticker (which to me doesn’t mean anything) serial number U2U1204661* and has a 1/4” to 1/8” adapter under the oil pressure sender stem.

Which makes me think it’s a turbo block, but probably not turbo rods. Is there a way that I could figure out which harmonic balancer it has?

I assume it would have to have a different harmonic balancer depending on which rods it has?

@IDIBRONCO I would guess that you would know.
 

IDIBRONCO

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That engine has a 1993 valve cover sticker (which to me doesn’t mean anything) serial number U2U1204661* and has a 1/4” to 1/8” adapter under the oil pressure sender stem.

Which makes me think it’s a turbo block, but probably not turbo rods. Is there a way that I could figure out which harmonic balancer it has?

I assume it would have to have a different harmonic balancer depending on which rods it has?

@IDIBRONCO I would guess that you would know.
Yes, no, maybe is all I can give for an answer. The balancer should have been different from the N/A ones from the factory. What's on there now is anyone's guess. The first letter if the factory serial number is "T" for a Factory Turbo block. Is there any other numbers by the factory one?
 

KansasIDI

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Yes, no, maybe is all I can give for an answer. The balancer should have been different from the N/A ones from the factory. What's on there now is anyone's guess. The first letter if the factory serial number is "T" for a Factory Turbo block. Is there any other numbers by the factory one?
No there aren’t any other numbers there, but yes, that block says 7.3T before the U2U#######*, my other engines have 7.3D prefixes.

Should be a dead giveaway, but I failed to notice that :idiot:
 

IDIBRONCO

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Well I can say that since there's no other numbers, it isn't one of ours (from the shop I used to work at). If it was ours, there would be 2 numbers besides the factory one. Unless you have reason the think otherwise, it's probably all original.
 

KansasIDI

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Well I can say that since there's no other numbers, it isn't one of ours (from the shop I used to work at). If it was ours, there would be 2 numbers besides the factory one. Unless you have reason the think otherwise, it's probably all original.
There is a Long McArthur dealership receipt for a 7.3 engine in the glove box, $6000, Sept. 2011

Ford crate motor?
 

IDIBRONCO

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One more thing. In 2011, I'm guessing that you were more likely to be able to buy a 7.3 PSD from a Ford dealership than a 7.3 IDI. I may be wrong on that though.
 

Danielle

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I’m talking above my pay grade here. But might wanna consider HFC-152a vs a R134a conversion.

FFW this video to 20:30 seconds and he goes through it.

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He finds it works well (5-15% better) vs the 134a in old R12 designed systems.

He also mentions early in that video, if you feel a temperature difference between the line from the evaporator to the accumulator/dryer and the line returning to the compressor, something is wrong. (Over or under charged). Those 3 pieces should all be ice cold.
I have an ac machine and a ton of r134a otherwise that option does look pretty good.
I’m talking above my pay grade here. But might wanna consider HFC-152a vs a R134a conversion.

FFW this video to 20:30 seconds and he goes through it.

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He finds it works well (5-15% better) vs the 134a in old R12 designed systems.

He also mentions early in that video, if you feel a temperature difference between the line from the evaporator to the accumulator/dryer and the line returning to the compressor, something is wrong. (Over or under charged). Those 3 pieces should all be ice cold.
I've read about that, but I happen to have an ac machine and a ton of r134a here.

I had to pause to redo the last length of fuel line I hadn't replaced, getting too much air and need the start up smoke to be minimal as my new neighbors never seem to leave their back porch that overlooks my yard haha.

Also in checking for leaks in the vacuum..... I caused leaks. Now I'm finally just going to redo all the plastic vacuum with silicone.

I haven't even checked if compressor running or pressure or leaks.

Shop is packed. Lifting a jeep for a college kid (pavement lift) so that's kind of fun. Also need to find a way to replace evap lines on the rustiest rust rust eclipse Spyder on earth to get him through NJ emissions (we no longer do safety inspection or obd 1 and older emissions!). And a lot of Hondas lately.

Also have to pull head off the discovery again and let a professional clean up this one valve, I clearly either misdiagnosed it or lapped it all wrong!

It's been a little toasty out here so I'm only working at night. Speaking of which, back at it!

Anyone have a source for new vents for our trucks?
 
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