Slow Cranking IDi

79jasper

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See if he'll let you test a new one in the parking lot.
You know, "try before you buy." Lol

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madpogue

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If they carry one for your truck, have him amp test a new one, compare with the numbers for your starter. I'll bet oldbull is right; you'll see a new starter draws about the same.
 

Spun4Fun

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My Local NAPA have Nippondenso Starter or the OEM Mitsu replacement .. What is the main difference between the 2 ?


From what OLDBULL saying that is normal AMP draw for our Trucks so that leaves me to think i do not need a Starter ..! :dunno
 
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Wvdirtroad

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Maybe try cranking with one battery connected at a time to see if it's one battery/ positive/ negative connection vs the other? I know my drivers side ground was extremely crudy when I rebuilt my oil cooler.
 

Spun4Fun

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Hey guys am thinking of rebuilding my Mitsubishi Starter rather than buy re man one . I am trying to save some $$ as other projects came up and life expenses adding up . Can any one please tell me where to get a re build kit from that would be greatly appreciated.


One more Q that is not directly related to the main topic .. DOES the WTS suppose to come on for short period maybe 5 sec even though the Eng is HOT ..? Or not at all . Mine comes on for 5 sec or so even when Eng is Hot
 
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79jasper

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It will always come on.
Yeah, you can rebuild it. Not hard to do, unless you have to replace the brushes which need to be silver soldered.
Mine ran about $100 including the solenoid.

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OLDBULL8

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Yup, that's about right, not all GPC's are equal, some only for a couple of seconds. But that has nothing to do with your starter. An Ohm test on a battery cable is useless, one good strand of wire out of the 50 or so will give you a false reading as good.
 

OLDBULL8

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Cold cranking amps (CCA) is a measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0 ° F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts. So a high CCA battery rating is especially important in starting battery applications, and in cold weather.This measurement is not particularly important in Deep cycle batteries, though it is the most commonly 'known' battery measurement.

Battery Testing can be done in more than one way. The most accurate method is measurement of specific gravity and battery voltage. To measure specific gravity buy a temperature compensating hydrometer, to measure voltage use a digital D.C. Voltmeter. A quality load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test sealed batteries.

For any of these methods, you must first fully charge the battery and then remove the surface charge. If the battery has been sitting at least several hours (I prefer at least 12 hours) you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must be discharged for several minutes. Using a headlight (high beam) will do the trick. After turning off the light you are ready to test the battery.


State of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage
12V 6V
100% 1.265 12.7 6.3
75% 1.225 12.4 6.2
50% 1.190 12.2 6.1
25% 1.155 12.0 6.0
Discharged 1.120 11.9 6.0

Load testing is yet another way of testing a battery. Load test removes amps from a battery much like starting an engine would. A load tester can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Some battery companies label their battery with the amp load for testing. This number is usually 1/2 of the CCA rating. For instance, a 500CCA battery would load test at 250 amps for 15 seconds. A load test can only be performed if the battery is near or at full charge.
 

Spun4Fun

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2 Brand new Interstate 850 CCAMP batteries .


I did not change the cable posts but the connection looks solid . no swelling or deformation in the Red or black cable, All ground connection are clean at the block for both negative and by the frame

Brand new ZF glow plugs over 2 month ago .

voltage does not droop at the starter below 11.9v during cranking and about 10.9 at the battery

Starter draw about 620 amp at one test and 590 amp at the 2nd test .

ohm test are .2 ohm on all cables + & -'s



With all that that is why i leaning towards the starter unless i should be doing something else
 

OLDBULL8

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79jasper


Where did you get your starter rebuild kit from ? Thank you

I just came across this one http://aspwholesale.com/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=381&page=all

But which one is our starter calling for

You said you have the OEM starter, that's more than likely a direct drive starter. Direct drive has the bronze bushings for bearings, those bearings wear and after awhile the armature starts to scrub slowing down the starter RPM.

You would have to pull your starter to find out. A ball bearing starter, rarily if ever will indicate a problem like armature scrub.
 

Spun4Fun

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You said you have the OEM starter, that's more than likely a direct drive starter. Direct drive has the bronze bushings for bearings, those bearings wear and after awhile the armature starts to scrub slowing down the starter RPM.

You would have to pull your starter to find out. A ball bearing starter, rarily if ever will indicate a problem like armature scrub.


I am planing to pull it out some times today and post a pic along it's Part # . I am assuming it's the Original OEM starter and the PO never changed it since every thing on this truck is Original
 
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