Self oil burning

1mouse3

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I don't think I've ever seen that done. I used my lathe on mine, but doing this might be easier then knocking them down with a bench grinder.

I dont have option A or B, using a angle grinder makes a sketchy set of plugs. So drilling the head since off seemed like the better path foward.
 

1mouse3

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Be sure to let us know how that all turns out.

Will do, have had zero issues with manual fired used 60g plugs and did good last winter. So dont think will have issues but if do, something will be said about it.
 

1mouse3

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I went to the home despot to find the straightest straight edge and tile that was of adequate length, the tile was one them wood grain ones.


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Then went about specing out starting intake valve depth, I bent two feeler gauge strips for a constent.

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I also got two books of paper since could not find anyone with long rolls. So took three in row glued to the tile, dont care for it but is what have to work with. I cut down on the edge with a razer to size them to the tile.

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I wet the paper and went too sanding. I kept the tile parralel while going cross one a few time then other way, kept the paper past the ends the hole time. I did not get as far as wanted with nine sheets of 600, so will try a coarsier paper next time.

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The_Josh_Bear

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I have little to add until you got to this part:

About 6 months ago I got done doing the same thing on a 5-cylinder volvo block and ended up with a very flat block by using a similar method and checking flatness against a machinists straight edge using feeler gauges.

What amazed me(besides how flat you can reliably get a block by hand-sanding) is that the grit of sandpaper required to do the job is actually pretty coarse. I started with 80-grit and went to 120, and that's as fine as if needs to be even for a 2005 aluminum block and head turbo volvo with an MLS gasket.

I had my heads professionally skimmed and asked him what grit he used, he said "100". This guy isn't building hot-rods but he knows his stuff. I checked his work with my straight edge and feelers and could not get even my smallest one anywhere under the straight edge. Which is way under spec for the record, and that's awesome.

So 6 months later our Volvo is running great and I drive it somewhat hard. Hope that helps, it took me forever to do the job with 150 grit(which is how I started) and that was aluminum. 600 on cast iron sounds like a prison sentence! LOL
 

1mouse3

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I started with 80-grit and went to 120, and that's as fine as if needs to be even for a 2005 aluminum block and head turbo volvo with an MLS gasket.


Good too know what grit will leave a appropriate serface finish.


Hope that helps, it took me forever to do the job with 150 grit(which is how I started) and that was aluminum. 600 on cast iron sounds like a prison sentence! LOL


Maybe Im a glutton for punishment, 3 trys and I gave up for the day tho.
 

1mouse3

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Stoped one place to get better paper and best they had was 80, going to look else where for some 40 and 60. This 80 I got did not rip up like the 600 I got, so just kep going but I got hot and gave up. This is about a hour worth work and only maginaly better.


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The 80 would make a good final grit since can make a good cross hash with it, camera did not catch it well.

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1mouse3

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I grabed some 40 and 60 paper, starting with the 40.

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After some time given, not a lot of progress has been acquired. I dont like manual labor so this is not getting anywhere.

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I cheated by grabbing the grinder with a flap disk.

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Then blocked it where found few high spot, then back to the flap in those spots. I repeated till there were few low spot

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After some time blocking, got it about 90 true with few low spots. I tired so will continue another day but is close to done.

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1mouse3

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Not really getting any where fast blocking the serfice and find the old flap left some deep scrapes. So grabbed a larged roloc disk since less agressive than the flap disk. Went back and forth between this and blocking to try removing the scrapes.

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In the end came up with this that is 98% true but still has some small scrapes here and there. Going to see what a new flap disk will do on the other head. This might be where it gets left if leaves the same scrape makes, if is the end will finish it with a finer paper.

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The_Josh_Bear

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For the block sanding if you use wet-dry and a lubricant it should go faster. I used WD40 since it's cheap, light, and sprays. Spray the paper, not the head.
 

1mouse3

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For the block sanding if you use wet-dry and a lubricant it should go faster. I used WD40 since it's cheap, light, and sprays. Spray the paper, not the head.

I tryed 80 grit wet-dry with water, that did not go vary far and the 40/60 I found was not wet-dry. Guess could try it with WD40 and see how it gose.
 

1mouse3

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I started by cutting down the other head with a new flap disk till the burn in the fire ring was gone.

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Then went to block the head with WD40 on the paper, its only marginaly better. This new disk did not not leave nicks but its round edge left a couple dimples.

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So went back and fortth with roloc to get a mostly true surface.

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This is what I ended with on this head, for the most part its good. Will spec how much has been cut from the heads next, then go from there.

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IDIBRONCO

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Dang it man! I keep seeing what looks like a AA battery above and to the left of your flap disc in these pictures. At first glance, I keep thinking that it's a hand gun bullet! LOL
 
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