Self oil burning

1mouse3

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Got some 6.9 head gasket as replacement for what I had.

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During assembly found push rods that would not stick when lubed. A close look showed the end was wore down and not usable.

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So looked over the rockers that came with block B as well, three where good and these three that have slight wear

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These three sets have a tore up rocker, so got discarded into the scrap bin.

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So went to check the extras that came with block A but found the bucket water logged. That block only came with 3 sets, so had enough to continue.

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Did clean them up so are useable.

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So have a assembled long block in hand, torqued to 106ft/lb.

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I was thinking the heads where bare needing paint but the rebuilder painted them a gray. This paint was shot over rust and im not going to put forth the effort to brush them down right know. So just shot primer and a color over that, yes there is a skim coat over the rust valve covers just because.

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1mouse3

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Before I installed the intake, fitment of this hat was checked and found had to grind the diameter down smaller for fitment.


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The valve covers where a itchy 'n scratchy mess that was bothering me, also it would be too much white if the block was to also be so.

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So this is the current state and need more stuff on the engine to hide the unpainted block. Also digging through the bucket of parts from block B, realized I had washers for the head bolts. Will it hurt not having them, dont think I have a full set on hand?

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1mouse3

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The water pump I put on the 6.9 was always weeping coolant at a slow rate, never looked into it. So this time I tried rtv on the gasket and that failed, it popped out in many places when torqued down. So effort spent today is mostly wasted and going to have to pull it back off, going to do just rtv.



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CBRF3

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use a thin coat of yamabond 4 for all your gaskets like this waterpump gasket valve covers intake you name it as for the exhaust i use a special exhaust gasket sealer

exhaust gasket sealer I use I use this on the donuts and everything

The gasket sealer i use you only put a super thin film of it on

I also paint my exhaust manifolds with this paint its available at walmart for like $10 a can its good for like 2000 degrees and i have put this stuff thru the testing and it held up well
 

1mouse3

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use a thin coat of yamabond 4 for all your gaskets like this waterpump gasket valve covers intake you name it as for the exhaust i use a special exhaust gasket sealer
I also paint my exhaust manifolds with this paint its available at walmart for like $10 a can its good for like 2000 degrees and i have put this stuff thru the testing and it held up well


Thanks, will get some the yamabond for when ever im to pull one these covers back off. That cover and pump is back on and did it different using the gray right stuff. I used my finger to put a liberal coat on the block, put the cover back on hand tight. Then pull the cover back off and checked application on the plate, where it did not transfer to the plate I add a liberal coat there. Now with plate hand tight, it is now to add a coat to the water pump and hand tighten. I now waited 5min and snugged all bolts starting on the water pump. then repeat with torque and finaly recheck torque. I see a good application for both and minimum extra, so leaving how is. I will keep that rust-oleum in mind if I have issues with the vht flame-proof I got allready to use on the manifolds.


This header has been off 3-4 for failed direct drive staters and last installed when the frame was swaped years ago, the mini on now has given zero issues. There is no gasket and just that copper rtv, rtv seems to do good on flat surfaces when let to tack up. Yes those are c-clamps holding the header on and have been given no reason to fix it since dose not leak.

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CBRF3

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Thanks, will get some the yamabond for when ever im to pull one these covers back off. That cover and pump is back on and did it different using the gray right stuff. I used my finger to put a liberal coat on the block, put the cover back on hand tight. Then pull the cover back off and checked application on the plate, where it did not transfer to the plate I add a liberal coat there. Now with plate hand tight, it is now to add a coat to the water pump and hand tighten. I now waited 5min and snugged all bolts starting on the water pump. then repeat with torque and finaly recheck torque. I see a good application for both and minimum extra, so leaving how is. I will keep that rust-oleum in mind if I have issues with the vht flame-proof I got allready to use on the manifolds.


This header has been off 3-4 for failed direct drive staters and last installed when the frame was swaped years ago, the mini on now has given zero issues. There is no gasket and just that copper rtv, rtv seems to do good on flat surfaces when let to tack up. Yes those are c-clamps holding the header on and have been given no reason to fix it since dose not leak.

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very nice I have a set of long tube headers with Vband clamp flanges for where exhaust is attached had them for years and never used them theyre new in the box custom set for our motors they also came with ARP exhaust studs and nuts and such.
 

1mouse3

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I had more photos before this but they got lost.

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And this is just adding up parts, not sure if the coolant filter is going on that eye sore or if its getting cut off.

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1mouse3

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Well nether the coolant filter or the catch can I have on hand will fit within the hight of this braket. So going to omit it this time over cutting it, so need to find washer the same thickness.


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So grabing the next out the pile of parts to put on the engine and plot its mount point.

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Then to find a way to make a odd shape in the hold down plate.

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Then to clean up the shape.

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This plate serves as a template to transfer shape to the hat, many holes aided in the cutting.

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So now a grid heater is almost mounted to replace the glow plugs, ran out of sharp bits to make the hold down tabs. Still need to hollow glow plugs and make a 3in pipe off this heater.

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Nero

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That looks like a grid heater off an old Cummins ISC lol
 

1mouse3

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That looks like a grid heater off an old Cummins ISC lol

It was what came up on rockauto for a dodge with a 12v and do know a freightliner with a isb also has this same one. Thinking about this some, that isb would have a usable air intake conection to 3in hose. Might be inquiring about cost of one tommorow so dont have to fight with some 1/4in spring steel.
 
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1mouse3

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The block had got a frezze plug in the bypass and the bleed port drilled to 3/8. The bridge also got drilled and taped to 14mm when the pump was off, this is for the fan switch. Need to decide if I still want to run it at 195/210f or go for a lower temp switch at 176/190f.

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The necks also got hung out to soak up some paint.

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I had all ready started on a beru plug and wanted to investegate it more. It was looking as if could drill out the contact from a cut tip, saw 10-32 as a possible size for a screew to fill it. Also Im seeing why the beru plugs dont just drop tips out the blue, its bigger at the top of the body so one way in. Found the 32g delco and 0-250-202-54 bosch to have more meat on the end, the delco more so. If can find a way to drive the core out one those, could just have the end welded closed and give more volume. That delco has a better shot of taking the weld, dig get the core driven out a bosch tho.

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A socket in a vice dose serve as a way to hold plugs to cut tips and to rip contacts off, also for drilling but heats bits up quick. As for driving the core out, it dose not stay put.

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1mouse3

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What I came up with was to use a socket in a socket to be able to drive out the core.

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So I have now a set of hollow glow plugs that can get welded closed on the end. I was also mistaken with the beru plugs being bigger on one end, it was a gray oring but it has a ridge to sit in.

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I also got some hold down tabs made, just need to get some long bolts to finish it up. Also on the rear tab, need to decide on how to hold the gromet in place to seal the intake.

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Also bent up the dip stick tube some to get it to fit around the manifold.

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1mouse3

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The heat'in tower of pisa has been erected.:joker:


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CBRF3

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I think your going to find this motor is going to be pretty peppy just remember ease in on throttle and ease off throttle otherwise bad things will happen our motors don't like to just be stabbed they like you to roll into it easily and roll out easily otherwise head gaskets become a issue LOL due to the dynamic pressures involved.

I also think you can remove that carb hat you modified and take steal plate the grid heater is mounted to and make it seal directly to the top of the intake throat ( cut the center webbing and where air breather box was mounted via bolt out ) with said grid heater bolted just to the steal plate and make that tower a bit easier to manage LOL.
 

1mouse3

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very nice I have a set of long tube headers with Vband clamp flanges for where exhaust is attached had them for years and never used them theyre new in the box custom set for our motors they also came with ARP exhaust studs and nuts and such.

Nice, v-band would be better than what I have on my fe and not going n/a on this engine.

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I think your going to find this motor is going to be pretty peppy just remember ease in on throttle and ease off throttle otherwise bad things will happen our motors don't like to just be stabbed they like you to roll into it easily and roll out easily otherwise head gaskets become a issue LOL due to the dynamic pressures involved.


Will keep that in mind and the wastgates will be run with the 10lb springs, I dont trust running the 20lb spings on the n/a rods.
 
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