Self oil burning

[CBRF3]

Nice, v-band would be better than what I have on my fe and not going n/a on this engine.

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Will keep that in mind and the wastgates will be run will the 10lb springs, I dont trust running the 20lb spings on the n/a rods.

6.9 with the turbo's and decompressed the way you have 15psi should be good out of experience I have pushed 20psi on NA rods decompressed similar to what you will have with most of mods you got and never had a issue headgaskets popped not the rods and that was because i got greedy and tried to push more 15psi is redline out of experience on 6.9 unless you stud them and that is with being carefull on transition on throttle and such. I will say though 10psi should be much easier to deal with I think your going to struggle to keep it under 10psi so be carefull as your turbo's when they light off theyre going to come on hard and fast aka be a bit violent. They will have a delay delay here we go and the boost will spike quickly likely faster than wastegate can react so be carefull the reason is the way our old IDI's EGT spikes rapidly as soon as you get over a certain amount of dynamic compression ( as RPM's increase dynamic compression pressures jump up ) and the increased fueling causes the EGT's to spike quick making a massive drive pressure on turbos quickly hince the violent spike and once waste gate opens your taking air away from the mix making EGT's spike even further making for a weird double whammy effect on the turbo drive pressures its weird but you will recognize it and feel it and see it via turbo boost pressures / EGT's its just the weird nature of the beast for our IDI's they get a weird delay / spike in EGT's and dynamic compression pressures.

 

[1mouse3]

6.9 with the turbo's and decompressed the way you have 15psi should be good out of experience I have pushed 20psi on NA rods decompressed similar to what you will have with most of mods you got and never had a issue headgaskets popped not the rods and that was because i got greedy and tried to push more 15psi is redline out of experience on 6.9 unless you stud them and that is with being carefull on transition on throttle and such but 10psi should be much easier to deal with.

Nice, the wastgates I got came with only have a 10lb and 20lb spring. I dont intend to run them combined for 30lb, nor do I look to get a boost controler to adjust them to be 15lb. This is a 7.3 that has been assembled, the head gasket is not worry for me even with the bolts a 106ft/lb

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I think your going to struggle to keep it under 10psi so be carefull as your turbo's when they light off theyre going to come on hard and fast aka be a bit violent delay delay here we go and the boost will spike quickly likely faster than wastegate can react so be carefull the reason is the way our old IDI's EGT spikes rapidly as soon as you get over a certain amount of dynamic compression and fueling the EGT's spike quick making a massive drive pressure on turbos

Will keep that in mind, if creeps over 10psi not going to worry much but would think to back a little if gets to 15psi.

 

[1mouse3]

I also think you can remove that carb hat you modified and take steal plate the grid heater is mounted to and make it seal directly to the top of the intake throat ( cut the center webbing and where air breather box was mounted via bolt out ) with said grid heater bolted just to the steal plate and make that tower a bit easier to manage .

That hat has a o-ring seal to the intake and why I went with it, a shallower hat like this one would do better. That seamed like the best way I could come up with to get a good seal with out having a plate welded to the intake.

 

[CBRF3]

That hat has a o-ring seal to the intake and why I went with it, a shallower hat like this one would do better. That seamed like the best way I could come up with to get a good seal with out having a plate welded to the intake.

a hint use something to make a transfer mark from the intake to a steal or aluminum plate for the circle then trace it out then get a 3/8 or so plate of steal or aluminum and trim it down to size needed you can use a drill press and nibble it at a light depth around this mark then clean it up with a dremel or even just use a router setup with a bit for metal and barely plunge into the plate and route your area for a Oring then walla you have a flat plate for a hat there are options for you if are determined even with limited tools or just make it rough and outline it for where Oring needs to be then take to a machine shop to have the Oring spot routed then make the hole for the gride heater to mount and such on that

 

[1mouse3]

a hint use something to make a transfer mark from the intake to a steal or aluminum plate for the circle then trace it out then get a 3/8 or so plate of steal or aluminum and trim it down to size needed you can use a drill press and nibble it at a light depth around this mark then clean it up with a dremel or even just use a router setup with a bit for metal and barely plunge into the plate and route your area for a Oring then walla you have a flat plate for a hat there are options for you if are determined even with limited tools or just make it rough and outline it for where Oring needs to be then take to a machine shop to have the Oring spot routed then make the hole for the gride heater to mount and such on that

I see your point, what I have on hand is a cordless die grinde, angle grinder and drill to work with. Dont want to bother the person with a drill press much and is not in the best shap to do accurate work. Could get a rotzip along with its cricle attachment tool to make round cuts, last few times Iv tried a dremal they failed half way through task. Will think about it and see what I can come up with at a latter date, what I have will work for now. Do have another intake laying around I can work with. Think would want to cut the lip flush along with cutting the webbing off the intake, this would give ample area for a flat plate to seal to. The area used on the current hat, leaves a thin amount of meat on both sides of the o-ring. A flat cut intake would alow for a slightly bigger o-ring to be used.

 

[1mouse3]

Well the core support is removed and accessory brakets are off the engine, so is a start of getting the engine ready to be plucked.

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[1mouse3]

I have the heart ready to be pulled for transplant, need to wait on another hand.

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With this manifold out it made starter removal easy...

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And same on this side to get the cooler out.

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[1mouse3]

I made exhaust plugs, so can have the 6.9 sit back in the weeds...

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[1mouse3]

More holes...

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That are sealed up...

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And caped...

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I even got this hole, this will make sure I have a plan b if something happens.

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[1mouse3]

Something tells me you'll be able to run past 2400 rpm just fine but I'm not too deep in the numbers.

Yea, it dose go past and as far as my curiosity gose is 3000rpm but dont want it there. I think she could do like @IDIoit ' s Man-chair-O, if I gave it a little bit more fuel. Before I go about turning up the fuel, need to get the custom dispaly panel set up for egt.

lol yeah dual 14cm housings would be even higher than that around 1800rpm by my math and peak just over 3000rpms which is to high on our motors our motors like down low in rpm's for power as thats where theyre efficiency curve is to high in rpm's we lose efficiency and only gain heat out of deal not alot of power gained and driveability goes out window add to it the violent light off of the turbo nothing nothing nothing then oh crap here we go. The 12cm housings would be around 1500rpms to around 2600rpm ish maybe a bit higher but again alot of variables especially with dual turbo's very hard to factor in this stuff and fact we are indirect injected is one of those if we were direct injected would be much easier but high compression and indirect injected make it hard to factor in.

Because we are indirect injected and high compression we dont produce much exhaust heat down low but our motors by design like to be ran down low so we then need to find the happy medium we either increase the fuel aka heat or we iincrease back pressure aka turbine drive pressures the facts are there is little scientific info out there about our engines because our engines were limited by theyre design. So in short alot of the big wigs / science guys didn't research ours much so we didn't have alot of info / designs to work with ouur engines were designed as reliable / efficient non fuel source finicky motors in short our engines were designed for tractors before put into a truck hince the fact ours are International Harvester Navistar diesel engines not straight navistar. They also designed our motors as low horsepower for a reason again for tractors and they made our engines simple by design in doing so.

The way they work is not as predicted, its a progessive ramp with steps and I like how it is with the 3.55 gears. This is the steps of what happens...

~1400 - bellow this point there is something but need to be easy off the clutch, so to have a soft shift without any sort of shutter/chugging that gives feeling the drive train could be trying to move around. She will crawl up a grade with ease and no issue of take off, this is with enough weight to soften ton and a half springs.

~1500-2300 - In this area, I think the turbo is active but is lazzy. It will get moving but still slow to progress, just not as bad and will get out of its own way. There is no smoke out the pipes if I give it here, making me think needs a little bit more fuel.

~2300-2500 - There is now some go, but dont really hear the turbo yet. Im still looking for smoke here and not seeing any yet. This area is fine to shift, if after a smooth gentle motion.

~2500-2800 - I am getting a whistle now and some more go-go. Shifting here gives kwik motion, but the spread leaves a little need at the start of the next gear.

~2800 - Above this is more whistle and she is asking to send. I dont intend to test how far she will send above this, just that its somewhere over 3000rpm.


All and all, Im happy with what the beast I made could do. I dont see need for too much more fuel and think a 90cc ip would do fine, for what I want of her.