Searched but cant find my answer, Comp 910s

Hyde

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I think it's the box around it that gets in the way, which you have to have as air cycles through it to the inside of the truck. By the way, not to be an ass, but the condenser is what is in front of the radiator. Anyway, sounds like you know what to do.

No offense taken, I should have known that, been a long time since I messed with any kind of AC.

What tools are you thinking you need to buy.. .

An installed height micrometer to properly shim them.


A .030 shim under each spring is a good idea for a starting point since the heads are not coming off to do it, it gets difficult to do on the engine without extensive tooling.

Thanks for the tip!
 

Greg5OH

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please post results about studding with the engine in, im very interested in this.
 

Hyde

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Well todays the day, starting on it after work. Went ahead and ordered a .030 shim pack so thats how they are all going in. Going to try to knock out the studs, springs, intercooler, water/**** and my new boost controller all this weekend. If I make it I'll report back Monday with the results. I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas for the clock to hit 4:30 :D
 

icanfixall

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Best of luck on what your doing. Remember that cylinder pairs come to top dead center at the same time. I know 1 & 4 are at tdc at the same time. Can't help on the others but I know someone will help.
 

Hyde

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If someone could tell me the order they come up after 1/4 that would be great. Also this is the first time I've had the valve covers off, unfortunately it still has 6.9 style rockers. Too bad i got rid of both my 7.3 sets after my old truck
 

Hyde

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Ok in 1/4 turn increments its 1&4, 2&5, 7&6, 3&8. Turning the crank clockwise for future reference if anyone needs it. Found that on another forum so I hope its right :D
 

Dieselcrawler

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look at the intake for the firing order. anow number one is first, 4 is 4th. second and 5th numbers anr companions, and so on....
 

OLDBULL8

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I must have posted how the cylinders are at TDC fifty times in the last year or so, can't do it know since my puter crashed, I'll look, might have it printed out, back in a little.

OK Edit:
Remove the little cover on the IP gear housing. Turn engine by hand, 15/16" socket on damper bolt. Position so IP dowel pin drive is at 4:00, then #1 & #4 will be at TDC, a 1/4 turn for each, #2 & #5 then #7 & #6 then #3 & #8. That should do you, both exhaust and intake valves should be closed at each 1/4 turn.
 
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Hyde

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We got it, marked the balancer with a degree wheel. Got the hardest cylinder done #8, and #3 too. Back at it in the morning
 

icanfixall

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Thanks guys for the pairs posting. I have it saved now so I can help others next time.
 

icanfixall

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So just to be clear on shimming the springs starting with 30 thous. Your doing this on a spring compresser and checking the lbs pf pressure at a certain height off the truck right. Cause there is no way I can figure how you could check the spring weight on the heads with a 30 shim under the spring. Also where are you going to place this shim. Under or on top of the valve spring rotater. There is a right and a wrong place but either place will be the same pressure on the spring. I'm just asking some questions and not trying to tell you what to do.
 

Hyde

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Since I don't have an installed height micrometer, Russ, along with a lot of Powerstroke write ups say to put .030 shims on. That is what I've heard as a good baseline without measuring equipment. The shims are being installed under the rotators
 

Hyde

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Wrapped it up Saturday evening. All said and done it wasn't that hard, worst springs were #8, along with the only semi difficult stud being the rearmost on the driver side head. Once the heater box is off theres plenty of room on the passenger side. Intercooler is also in along with the water/****. Lets just say EGTs arent an issue. Im running about 15-16 psi which will jump to 17-18 when the water/**** is on. Now I just need more fuel, hardly a hint of haze even.
 

Hyde

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Didnt take many pictures, was on a tight timeframe
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