Sanding the block

[5 oclock]

I had no intention of sanding the block. Ibwas discouraged from this method by research.. some of which actually did have guys flat sanding. Yes I did research. However, it wasn't as clean as I invisioned and a local engine builder who put my valve springs in encouraged I briefly sand the block with 120. Well that made me nervous so I used 220. I used an auto body flat block. The block is very flat, I'm just curious as to what I'll effects may come from these scratches. The last thing I want is for all this work and then a head to leak. That would be one epic killjoy.

I searched this and nothing came up sorry if it's a bloody one.

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[Knuckledragger]

This amount of sanding will do no harm, you can still see the factory grinding marks. Sanding or filing is a good way to make sure the block surface is clean from all gasket or other built up material. I would recommend that it be done on a bare block, though, so you can clean off the dust and chips that are created.

 

[Randy Bush]

Back in he day when did engine rebuilding had a large flat file would run across he top of a block to insure all gasket maerial and such was removed, Never had any problems with sealing.

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

That block looks awesome! I am very particular about this detail and have some habits I’ll share. Leaving the surface with a little “tooth” from 180 grit won’t hurt. I use oil on the sandpaper to keep sanding dust from going down the cylinders. I also park the pistons down the cylinder and oil them so the gritty oil can be wiped off catching grit. Lastly I oil all the cyl walls and spin it over and clean off and any contamination and repeat until no more shows up. Then leave a light coat of oil and put the heads on.

 

[Big Bart]

Some additional thoughts.

1) Agree no harm done. Insures you get any rust, gasket, and other contaminents off.
2) Will make a better sealing surface.
3) However you should put rags in the cylinder holes next time to catch any debris or sand off the paper if you did not this time.
4) Chase your head bolt holes and intake manifold holes with a thread chaser. They will torque/tighten better.
5) Think about using ARB head bolts.
6) If your block is on a engine stand you may want to turn it upside down and hit with a little/light compressed air. Blow out any debris but not blow it down between the piston and cylinder wall.
7) Turn the block up add a couple drops of oil in each cylinder and have it go up and then down. Now wipe out the oil on the cylinder walls. You should be able to get most of any debris that fell in while doing the heads and sanding the block.
6) Wipe all mating surfaces with brake cleaner on a clean and lint free rag. (I would not recommend spraying direct at this point.)

Let us know how it all turns out.

 

[catbird7]

Cleanliness is next to awesomeness! Use a little piece of paper towel inside each head bolt hole prior to sanding. When sanding is completed use a shop vac to suck the *** of paper towel + filings out of each hole. Painters tape around the inside circumference of each cylinder is another good way to catch debris. Again, shop vac first then remove tape and shop vac once more.

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

Absolutely to chasing threads! Must do.
Yes to the vacuum....sometimes I scrape / clean with the vacuum wand in the other hand. Don’t have to get it out of things if it never got in!

 

[5 oclock]

Yeah I went directly from this to attempting to rotate to align timing. I didn't add oil and scratched the cylinder walls [emoji854]. Super cool. Anyway.. thank your for all the feedback! I clean it well before putting the head on.

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[Big Bart]

You should be fine.

At the end of the day this site is all about getting advice and learning how to do it a little better. We all know a trick or two, but collectively we know a ton!

 

[5 oclock]

This has definitely provided some piece of mind!speaking of timing is the mirror the best way to find the point without taking the front of the engine off?

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[Big Bart]

I have never had reason to check, so no expert here. I recall hearing about the mirror trick in a different thread. There are a lot of cheap bore scopes on the market. Perhaps borrow or buy on if the mirror trick does not work.

 

[TahoeTom]

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[TahoeTom]

If you removed the IP with the gear and cover you made more work for yourself. Rotate engine until TDC mark on damper is aligned. I have heard of someone feeling for the mark with a pick but not had to try this. You will either have the dot or Y at the top, so try and determine witch. Remove the gear from the IP. The manual says to draw a vertical line on the IP gear from the timing mark and install with the line vertical / at right angles to the top surface of the block.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Since your engine is out of the truck, it's really not that hard to pull the water pump, balancer, and front cover off to get to the gears.