Rust Inhibitors. Fancy name for either self etching primer and paint or just spray o

[laserjock]

Stuff in the drip rail is seam sealer. Normal for it to be there. Take a trip through my build thread. In the cab work section you will see a lot of that same problem.

On your driver floor, you need to check the cab mount real close because it butts up there and connects right about where your hole is.

The good news is this. Other than your drip rail problems, none of that other stuff will show to the outside so your patches don't have to be beautiful, just functional. If you have the ability to lift the cab off the frame and lay it on it's back, those repairs up under the front get a lot easier. You are going to have to at a minimum pull the bed so that you can work on that rear section.

I hate to say it, but after going through this, it's probably worse than you actually think.

Body shop cost to fix all of this will probably far exceed the value of the vehicle so that is something else to think about.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Didn't get a chance to look at it yesterday but moving the cab is not an option. I know nothing about welding. Later today I'm going to clean up some more under it and get a better look at cab mounts. For the surface rust, what can I spray on it to neutralize it before I primer it? Or would cleaning it good, hit it with some self etching primer than sealer do it? I've got a budget this week of just 150 and guarantee of bad storms. But if you seen the video, how do I address the cowl issue? And can I remove all this damn insulation from under the hood? All it appears to be doing is nothing. Once all the body work is done, the floor and firewall is getting dynamat and so is the interior trim. I'm hoping by December I'll be driving this truck. I'll check out your thread laser when I get a chance later today. Thanks.

 

[fordf350man]

Heres a video I did on the areas.
https://youtu.be/WI5DTfnWzI8

wow I wish my truck had this little of rust on it

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Lol. I couldn't do all along the cab wall floor joint or cowl seam. There's more than the video shows. Got half my rear interior panels off and laying on the back seat waiting for paint once I find the right way to do so. Some people replace faded panels. I paint them.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Jesus laser! I THOUGHT mine was bad......It might be I just haven't found it yet but DAMN! Still got anything left from the parts truck? You gave me the motivation to keep going and at least try to do the body work on the '87. But I'm still uneasy since like I said, I know jack about metal work or welding. Took a class in high school years ago but that's it. How did removing that ugly rear window cover work out and how did you "fix" the interior panel to get rid of that bar and cover up the gap left behind? I want to remove the cover around the rear windows and chrome ring around windshield. Just another place to hold water and rust. Not to mention, I don't really care for it.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Removing the firewall/inner fender insulation without removing EVERYTHING is a real PITA! But, Getting it done. Looking so much better now. Found a metal tag screwed to the firewall with a bunch of data on it. Interested in what it says. But the dust and fiberglass thats flying is insane! After today and maybe this weekend given the rain doesn't drop, I'm gonna need a pressure washer shower. Grinding old screws off a 5th wheel tailgate, all this insulation, etc... Labor of love. Gotta be. Or insanity. Maybe both. I got the two nuts holding the E-brake assembly to the firewall loose to drop the cable and cut the cancer out, But it still won't budge. Is there more holding it? Getting the cable out looks like all it is just push it up through the hole and out it comes. Also, When I wire wheeled the cab mount, The "rust" turned black. What exactly does that mean since I did no chemical treatment?

 

[laserjock]

Yeah... My cab was not so good. Like I said, the floor is a perfect place to learn. Once you put the carpet down you won't see it anyway.

My strategy is to use Eastwood inner frame coating in places I can't get to with paint. In the cowl might me a good place for it. The trucks to me look goofy without the windshield trim.

The rear side glass comes out pretty easy. You have to change windows. The brick and Bull nose windows are different from the OBS windows. Not sure what I'm going to do on the interior yet to remove the bar. Easiest thing may be to find OBS rear plastic parts but I'm not sure yet.

Rusty metal can turn black looking when you wire wheel it. Make sure you get all the scale off before you treat it. Some times the scale will look black after hitting with the wire wheel. Flap wheel on the grinder or roloc on a die grinder is a good way to strip it back.

I don't claim to be an expert on any of this stuff but I'm doing the best I can to slow it down.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

How does the window look without the outer cover on? I seen (looks like) you had some kind of plastic trim around it. Where can I get it? Carpet? What carpet? Its in a landfill somewhere now. I guess I'll use por 15 metal ready for the phos-whatever acid and zinc coating. I got all the scale off. Its black and "solid" as in no crumbs or anything like that. I have a softer wire cup for my drill I'm going to use on it and in the hard spots. Still not sure what I can or will do about the cowl area seams that are impossible to get at. Can't do anything today or this weekend because of the rain but yesterday got some of the insulation ripped out of the engine bay, The new alt. charge wire made, and my unobtainable fuel line put on finally.

 

[laserjock]

Carpets can be had from several places. eBay or Amazon. @junk

I think he got his from these people but maybe through rock auto. I can't remember.

If you mean the outside trim for the rear window, you really can't do without it with the old window because it sandwiches the glass in. You'll have a piece of glass or two separate panes divided. Just like it looks. I don't really know what is on the inside with the trim off. It's the whole corner trim that will be missing. It's all together.

 

[junk]

My carpet came from Rock auto. It was made by ACCmats. Lots of places sell it. I think it was around $200 for my crewcab with the mass backing on the carpet.

Keep at it. Grind, replace, prime. Floor is a great place to learn. Rust repair sucks though. I know why shops don't like doing it.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

I saw a guy on ebay selling carpets made by accmats. How good is it and does it actually look factory like is claimed? On the panels, I'm not so worried about aesthetics of it as I am the structural integrity. And, Should I do it butt style, layover and if so, how far, etc... Then, What type of weld will I need to use? all that. Like I've mentioned previously, I don't know **** about welding. Never really had to do any of it. I can do basic painting but thats it. Like on my interior trim panels, I want a black interior so I'm using this to not only bring them back but also as a paint.
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-plastic-resurfacer-matte-black-aerosol.html
and was thinking of using this to clean up my surface rust areas which are many but not extensive and manageable. My worst areas are cowl above firewall, floor corner and back wall floor joint. Just on this truck. Still thinking on my '89.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

IT NEVER STOPS!!! ARGH!

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Wired it all down, hit it with self etching primer, then sealer, and about to lay a top coat. This is just the front of the cab. Theres more in the back. I'm running out of patience with this truck and about over budget and time. Luckily, I caught it in time and it wasn't all the way through.

BTW, That seam sealer Ford stupidly used, STINKS when its wired off.....

 

[Cruiseomatic]

This is what I also have.

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Now add that to the cowl and floor corner...
I have NO idea how to fix this properly....Or the funds to.
Everywhere that "seam sealer" is, I have rust.

Its also starting to get into the body mount. Look inside the "C" top left of body bolt.

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[laserjock]

Interesting. Even as bad as mine was, I didn't have near that much corrosion in that area. The quick not so pretty fix is to cut out the rusty bits, and replace with a piece of light gauge angle and weld it in. Seam seal it as best you can and call it a day. Not much else you can do along there I don't think short of replacing a whole bunch of metal. There are a lot of pieces that come together in those areas. The other thing I'm doing is shooting the eastwood inner frame coating in all that area that is not accessible. I figure it can't hurt.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

The back wall isn't that bad. It stops right where the dimple is, But the floor....Wow. I'm thinking this is to much for me.