Running without a fuel filter

[ironworker40]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACOR-PARKE...-30-heater-element-not-included-/261651357102
THIS ONE IS AS CHEAP AS YOU CAN GET $15 This is the same as the stock unit and takes the same filters. Better act quick

 

[ironworker40]

Racor part number

Notice the filter head is available WITHOUT heater port that everyone hates, that leaks. For the northern guys you can get a fuel bowl with a heater in it thats a direct replacement for the stock fuel bowl part # rk30900 , this will let you run a heater if you plugged off the stock one if you wish to. Racor also makes a stand alone heater called a Nomad and a replacement fuel line called Thermoline with a heater it that would work in place of the factory 6.9 fuel heater on the line between the lift pump and filter head. Just putting it out there in case anyone is interested.

 

[bbjordan]

While the engine is running, the fuel filter should not be under negative pressure to allow an air leak. The lift pump should provide about 7 psi positive pressure to the filter head/IP. Are you sure you didn't just have a plugged filter? If you are getting air in the system the problem is most likely before the lift pump.

 

[BDCarrillo]

the problem was narrowed down to a leak or crack letting air somewhere in the fuel filter housing.

the dudes at the shop jury rigged fuel lines to bypass the filter entirely, which got me home -- a distance of about 300 miles.

I re-read your initial post... a leak in the filter head WILL NOT kill a running engine, just leak all over. Been there, done that. If they bypassed your filter, and it ran just fine... that narrows down the issue to just your filter...

 

[sassyrel]

I hope that by keeping the tank level high during my drive home, I avoided pulling in the really bad gunk from the bottom of the tank. I get the feeling that running the truck as it is now is running in super accelerated wear mode… where each mile driven unfiltered is like hundreds of “normal” miles.

QUOTE]

if the shower head is still attached,,you pull fuel,,right off of the bottom of the tank....hope like h you didn't damage it...REAL risky!!!!

 

[Agnem]

The injection pump has a non-serviceable filter screen in it that may or may not stop a particle of a large enough size. If your driving without a filter, it is slowly clogging, and you will be down on power, then down all together if it clogs bad enough.

 

[avatar382]

Notice the filter head is available WITHOUT heater port that everyone hates, that leaks. For the northern guys you can get a fuel bowl with a heater in it thats a direct replacement for the stock fuel bowl part # rk30900 , this will let you run a heater if you plugged off the stock one if you wish to. Racor also makes a stand alone heater called a Nomad and a replacement fuel line called Thermoline with a heater it that would work in place of the factory 6.9 fuel heater on the line between the lift pump and filter head. Just putting it out there in case anyone is interested.

Thanks ironworker40, I ended up buying that part you linked to (325R12-30). I'm in Florida, no need for the heating element. Seems like the easiest way to get going again.

bbjordan and BDCarillo,
I did have the filter itself replaced at the shop before the filter housing was bypassed... replacing the filter made no difference. The old filter wasn't that old, it had about 6000 miles on it.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Thanks ironworker40, I ended up buying that part you linked to (325R12-30). I'm in Florida, no need for the heating element. Seems like the easiest way to get going again.

bbjordan and BDCarillo,
I did have the filter itself replaced at the shop before the filter housing was bypassed... replacing the filter made no difference. The old filter wasn't that old, it had about 6000 miles on it.

There ya go: got some good input and a cheap and almost painless fix

 

[jim_22]

Well my stock filter was nothing but an air sucking pig that I was tired of dealing with and buying $25 filters for so I by-passed it. Never has the truck run so well after I did that. On my main tank, the front one, I do all my running except the cold start. On this line I put a high-quality marine water-separator filter, widely available at any marine store. The filters are also cheap. On the cold start line (which also has a brand new tank) I have just a WIX "in-line" filter. Such a filter is the stock primary on my 85 Mercedes (but 5/16 instead of 3/8) and it works very well. When I get around to it, I shall replace it on my truck with a second marine filter. But right now the in-line sees a very small number of gallons per year, being used only for the cold start.

 

[Kistthesky]

how long have you been running this set up, mileage-wise? where did you install the filter/seperator?

 

[avatar382]

Update:

I got the replacement filter assembly, but it doesn't quite fit. It's too big, the fittings are the wrong diameter, and the input and output are at wrong angles so I'd have to reroute a bunch of lines.

I called the parts guy at Ford, and they informed me it's usually the heater that leaks, not the whole housing.

I did a bit more research and learned it's usually the O-RING at the heater plug that leaks... so I'm going to try replacing that o-ring...

I know my truck has been slowly leaking fuel from around that plug area, does this sound like something that could cause an engine to totally die while going down the highway?

Also, when my filter was bypassed, the shop I was at Tee'd off the fuel return line, and now looking at it I'm not quite sure how to plumb the return line back into the filter housing. It looks like there's a T with three lines, one coming out of the injection pump, and the other two from the two injectors farthest from the firewall at the front of the engine. I guess I could plug the fitting in the housing with some JB weld or something but I'd really like to return to a stock setup...

I've attached a picture so you guys can see what I mean:

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[jim_22]

how long have you been running this set up, mileage-wise? where did you install the filter/seperator?

This set-up has 7k miles. New filter is on the passenger side near the location of the original lift pump. I may also mention I plumbed in a flat-plate heat-exchanger. What ever fuel I put in the front tank is pretty well heated before I burn it.

 

[79jasper]

Need more pictures.
I would say where it's at now MIGHT be okay.
Far as the heater plug, drill it out, tap it, and put a pipe plug in it.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

 

[jim_22]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACOR-PARKE...-30-heater-element-not-included-/261651357102
THIS ONE IS AS CHEAP AS YOU CAN GET $15 This is the same as the stock unit and takes the same filters. Better act quick

You should note, however, that the filter pictured is only 30 micron.
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...vgnextdiv=687630&vgnextpartno=325R12-30&Wtky=

 

[avatar382]

I've attached some more pictures.

A couple things I'm wondering:

I feel silly asking this, but how do the fittings for the hard fuel lines screw back into the filter housing? Looking at the end of the fittings, it doesn't looks like it spins. Or, is it simply a matter of detaching the fitting from the lines, screwing it into the housing, and then re-attaching it to the line?

Once I've got the fuel filter housing plumbed in again, it seems there's going to be an air bubble in the lines/housing, even if I fill the filter with fuel. At the shop, I saw the techs use starting fluid to get it going again, so I got some. Reading the directions, it says "DON'T USE WITH GLOW PLUGS!" which scares me. Is it a simple matter of leaving the key in the in the on position for a long time so the plugs have a chance to cool off? Or is there a fuse I can pull so I can use the starting fluid safely?

Alternatively, I've read about a procedure where injector lines are loosened and the engine is cranked to let air out. Is it the the metal lines on top of the injectors that are loosened? Can this procedure generally be done with decently charged batteries, or am I going to need a battery charger?

Maybe I'm worrying to much about this stuff and I can get the engine going without starting fluid or loosening injector lines... but I'd like to be prepared in case not.

Also: It looks like there's a valve on the fitting on the filter housing where the return line goes. Is it ok to leave that fitting open, as it is, or will it let air in without the return hose hooked up to it?

Thanks for the help guys, I've got a ton to learn. At this point I'm tempted to take the truck to a shop, but I got it because I wanted simple, maintainable high utility transportation, which means I should learn to maintain it.

I tried to take decent pictures of my return lines as they look now from several angles. I didn't see any loose fuel hoses dangling.

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