reverse lights help

[Brian VT]

Thanks for all the help with my brake/hazard/backup troubleshooting at the fuse box.
I now have brake and hazard flashers working. But still no reverse lights.
No power at the sockets.
I'm guessing next place to check is the switch on my C6 tranny? How to test that?
I found this pic of the connector online.

 

[Nero]

Oh boy here we go again
If I remember right, the reverse light uses a black/pink stripe wire. I assume the fuse for the reverse is good and has voltage? I can get the schematic for it later, I'm helping someone move right now.

The woes of being the only friend with a big truck...

 

[Kizer]

I BELIEVE that you should be able to jump the terminals, on the pigtail for that switch, and determine whether or not the switch is t/u or that wiring is your issue.

If I remember correctly, with the ignition “on” and the terminals jumped, you’ll get reverse lights on if you’re wiring is good….so that would lead you to a failed switch diagnosis.
If I didn’t remember correctly, my apologies….an expert is sure to chime in.

 

[Brian VT]

Oh boy here we go again
If I remember right, the reverse light uses a black/pink stripe wire. I assume the fuse for the reverse is good and has voltage? I can get the schematic for it later, I'm helping someone move right now.

The woes of being the only friend with a big truck...

Fuse is the same one you helped me fix. So, yes.

 

[Brian VT]

...

 

[Brian VT]

I BELIEVE that you should be able to jump the terminals, on the pigtail for that switch, and determine whether or not the switch is t/u or that wiring is your issue.

If I remember correctly, with the ignition “on” and the terminals jumped, you’ll get reverse lights on if you’re wiring is good….so that would lead you to a failed switch diagnosis.
If I didn’t remember correctly, my apologies….an expert is sure to chime in.

Thank you both. I jumped the black and purple terminals going to the pigtail and got voltage when in reverse. So I know I'm good up to the switch.
I guess I'll replace the switch.

There's grime/oil around the switch. Do you know if there's a tranny seal I can replace while I have the switch off?

 

[Nero]

I think you have to take the pan off and remove the shift linkage to replace that seal, but I'm also not 100% sure. At least you found the issue.

 

[franklin2]

There are two seals. The one for the kickdown is easy to dig out from the outside. The shifter shaft seal is the one that you have to drop the pan and drop down the valve body and pull the complete shaft out to replace that seal. Of course that's the one that is usually leaking. It can make a fairly large leak after awhile. A lot of work for just a little seal.

 

[Jesus Freak]

At FedEx we honk twice to back up, so if your horn works you should be good.

Edit: your horn is probably going to be your next thread......

 

[Brian VT]

At FedEx we honk twice to back up, so if your horn works you should be good.

Edit: your horn is probably going to be your next thread......

We don't have to pass emissions for a sticker but if there's any OEM lights not working then no go. My horn works (after I replaced it) but won't get me a sticker for backing up. Hand signals for turns and 2 beeps before backing won't fly.
I have 5? running lights on top of my cab. 2 were out. They said no go. Really? It's not like they're required for all vehicles. Nor are those non-working lights in any way a safety hazard. ***?
But I squared those away. Just needed bulbs. But getting to them didn't go well.

My next thread will probably be for 1 of my 2 license plate lights not working. I have power going into the socket. Bulb is good. Don't know what to do next.

 

[Nero]

It's common for the license plate light ground to be shoddy. Especially if you have an aftermarket bumper with the round metal housing one, the ground is the body of the housing and grounds out through the bumper.

 

[Brian VT]

This socket is plastic and has 2 wires so I assume the ground is elsewhere.

 

[franklin2]

We don't have to pass emissions for a sticker but if there's any OEM lights not working then no go. My horn works (after I replaced it) but won't get me a sticker for backing up. Hand signals for turns and 2 beeps before backing won't fly.
I have 5? running lights on top of my cab. 2 were out. They said no go. Really? It's not like they're required for all vehicles. Nor are those non-working lights in any way a safety hazard. ***?
But I squared those away. Just needed bulbs. But getting to them didn't go well.

My next thread will probably be for 1 of my 2 license plate lights not working. I have power going into the socket. Bulb is good. Don't know what to do next.

If the lights are installed, they have to work. You can take them off and put duct tape on the holes in the roof, and then they do not have to work.

If you add running boards and add bunch of lights all the way down each side, they all have to burn during inspection. Even though they are not stock.

 

[Jesus Freak]

We don't have to pass emissions for a sticker but if there's any OEM lights not working then no go. My horn works (after I replaced it) but won't get me a sticker for backing up. Hand signals for turns and 2 beeps before backing won't fly.
I have 5? running lights on top of my cab. 2 were out. They said no go. Really? It's not like they're required for all vehicles. Nor are those non-working lights in any way a safety hazard. ***?
But I squared those away. Just needed bulbs. But getting to them didn't go well.

My next thread will probably be for 1 of my 2 license plate lights not working. I have power going into the socket. Bulb is good. Don't know what to do next.

Well, you could just do like everyone else in America and move to Florida.

 

[Brian VT]

All lights now functioning now. Well, except for dome light.
Thanks again.
Now to figure out how to get at dome light bulb.