Reusing ARP head studs

[Kevin 007]

Have to pull the heads on a fresh build 6.9 to address a head gasket sealing problem. It has a fresh set of ARP studs in it. About 400miles on the engine. Is it safe to re-use the studs?

Thanks

 

[Cant Write]

Not 100% sure but I believe that is the beauty of studs.....more clamping power and reusable.

Maybe their website says something.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

As far as I know they are reusable.

 

[Nero]

ARP themselves say they are reusable. The studs I have in my truck were sold as used units with 2 torques on them. As long as you reinstall with the assembly lube you'll be golden.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

ARP themselves say they are reusable.

As long as you reinstall with the assembly lube you'll be golden.

That's good because I have a set for a 6.9 that I plan to reuse some day.

 

[Kevin 007]

Thanks guys.

 

[XOLATEM]

Late to the party...

I would not have any concern about re-using those studs as long as there is no evidence of them ever being over-torqued and if everything feels good when you are tightening them down.

ARP has a good reputation to uphold....and I have never, ever heard a bad word about anything they make.

Just my .02

 

[Kevin 007]

Had a few that did not remain snug in the block, after removing the nuts. 2 even came out with the nut. Kind of has me concerned about adequate clamping. Probably overthinking it as im sure they're plenty snug once torqued down.

 

[KansasIDI]

Had a few that did not remain snug in the block, after removing the nuts. 2 even came out with the nut. Kind of has me concerned about adequate clamping. Probably overthinking it as im sure they're plenty snug once torqued down.

I gave the studs in my 86 (7.3) a quarter turn past hand tight. And did a hot retorque.

 

[Nero]

I gave the studs in my 86 (7.3) a quarter turn past hand tight. And did a hot retorque.

When you did the retorque, did any of them turn at all? Ive heard ARP says you don't need to do a retorque like you would with factory head bolts.

 

[KansasIDI]

When you did the retorque, did any of them turn at all? Ive heard ARP says you don't need to do a retorque like you would with factory head bolts.

I would be inclined to agree, did each one from center outwards 1/4 turn back off, and then tighten to spec, they all went about a quarter turn back to torque. So they are probably right, not necessary. Can’t hurt though.

ARP recommends a hot retorque on the 12V Cummins, but the head on an inline six is of course much longer.

 

[vertflyer]

That's why ARP can charge what they do for their headstuds. They're just that damn good, and yes reusable. Only time I'd worry is if I'd accidentally over torqued them (by multiple 10's of foot pounds). That might be cause for some concern. Otherwise, they're good to go.

 

[XOLATEM]

I have a used set for a 7.3. When I put them in the block I plan to use blue locktite. I was told many years ago by a guy that built circle track engines that it was not good to bottom studs in the block and stress the area near the deck that direction...

When a torque plate is bolted on for the final honing the stress is toward the deck, not away from it....I am not first-hand experienced in that to know either way...everyone has their theories to prove or disprove.

But...we are talking about much lighter cast blocks for gas engines and some of the threads are open to the water jacket...so there is nothing to bottom them to.

Anyway...after much cleaning of the threads...I plan on bottoming my studs and then backing them out a quarter-to-half turn and using blue locktite to anchor them.

Whether I re-torque them later will depend on which head gasket I use...but, knowing how I worry, I will probably do what @KansasIDI does.

Just my .02...

 

[Nero]

Just make sure the rocker levers clear the head studs if you back them out.
When I did mine I bottomed them out and just used a small hand wrench to snug them up. The clearance between the studs and the rocker levers is tight.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

When I put them in the block I plan to use blue locktite.

I used anti seize do that they're easier to remove in the future.

I was told many years ago by a guy that built circle track engines that it was not good to bottom studs in the block and stress the area near the deck that direction...

I tried this and all they did was to rotate down and bottom out anyway so I didn't bother on the second head.

Just make sure the rocker levers clear the head studs if you back them out.
When I did mine I bottomed them out and just used a small hand wrench to snug them up. The clearance between the studs and the rocker levers is tight.

I'll agree on the clearance. I actually had to clearance some of the rockers and their mounting pedestals when I did my studs.