rear tank replacement

[Andylad13]

ive currently never dropped a diesel tank, and my rear leaks, so im going to drop it. my plan in the long run is to only have a 30 gallon or so replacement rear tank instead of the 19.5, and get rid of the front one. for now i want to just take the rear one out completely, any chance of getting air in the system with it out? what should i look out for, and know about before going in on her?

 

[dakotajeep]

Not sure about the 89 but on my 94 I had two skid plates that held the entire tank in position. I assumed it had metal bands holding it in but it didnt. It was a surprise to have it fall when I removed the skid plates. In retrospect I think it might have been easier to remove the bed than to dig around under the pickup. But to each his own.

Thad

 

[RedTruck]

I have skid plates on mine, but it was still strapped in place. I also had my bed off at the time. I couldn't get it through that opening. It would only go in through the bottom. Mine still had fuel in it, so I used a floor jack to support it while I was disassembling. I recommend running it as close to empty as you can. But first get your favorite can of penetrating oil and soak all the fasteners down. That's going to be the worst part of your job.

Paul

 

[RedTruck]

As far as getting air in the lines...I'd just use a 3/8" and 5/16" vacuum nipple on your fuel valve. This will keep the dirt out as well, but you shouldn't have a problem. I recommend using injector line hose clamps. They clamp tighter, are easier on your hoses, and you can get them at any jobber in the 3/8" and 5/16" sizes.

Paul

 

[Andylad13]

thanks guys, ill try it out today. btw, i dont have skid plates. shes usually not full due to the leak so hopefully its not too heavy, ill still use a jack.

 

[razorback]

pull your bed off and do it that way. trust me..ALOT easier.

 

[BROWNIEBOY525]

personally i dont think pullin the bed off makes it any simpler. The skid plates still have to come of to get the tank out because it will not come thru the top. If the tank is close to empty then the job aint too bad.

 

[NJGearhead666]

I did my rear tank last week in my 94 the bolts on the skid plate were rusted beyond belief. i just decided to use new bolts and torched the rusted bolts off and the skid plates fell. I didnt think it was that hard to get the tank out of the truck. If you have a hitch it will make it harder to get it out.

 

[razorback]

ive dont it both ways.. pulling bed off was the easiest for me.

 

[datkinsonsr]

Mine had two or three gallons in it when I took it off from underneath. Dropped it onto my knees and rolled it out really easy.

 

[razorback]

to the original poster..

do you already have a 30 gallon tank? there are a few places that sell 38 gallon tanks that are almost a direct replacement (need new fuel sender/longer straps) that i have considered going with.. and i think i remember reading a bronco or something like that has a 38 gallon one that will fit as well?

 

[Andylad13]

no, i just have 2 19.5's one front one rear.

i didnt take the tank out yet, got backed up on stuff.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

The rear tank should not be able to come out from under the bed with the bed removed, there are two straps over it that attach to the frame and that IIRC are installed from the bottom too - so pretty much it will have to be dropped. As for air getting in the system - Jake ran his '86 on the rear tank for a week or two, no air intrusion issues that I know of. But I agree with capping the selector valve ports, pull the lines off and seal them things, better safe than sorry.