Rear main seal replacement time

[oldblue05]

Like the title states, I need too replace it. Can anyone walk me through this?

 

[towcat]

it's easy...sorta. you gotta pull the trans but here is a pic once the trans is pulled. the second pic is for the additional parts you will need.

 

[hesutton]

Pull the transmission, flywheel/pressure plate. Remove the bolted holding the rear cover to the block. Carefully remove the cover with the old rear crank seal, don't damage or loose the two dowels. You may need to cut the old silicone between the oil pan and the cover 1st. Remove the old seal by driving it out. Drive the new seal in the rear cover. I'd put it a little deeper or a little more shallow that the old seal. This will put the sealing lip on a little different part of the crank.

I like to use a large paper cup from a fast food place as a guide. Cut the folded lip off the top, add a thin coat of grease or oil to the cup and place it over the rear of the crank. Put a new gasket on the rear engine cover, a very thin coat of silicone will help keep it in the right spot on the cover and help it seal as well. Silicone the oil pan and rear cover where they come into contact. Slide the rear engine cover on. The cup will let the new rear main seal glide onto the rear of the crank without much drama. Pull the cup out, bolt down the cover, and clean up any excess silicone or add some if there are obvious gaps between the cover and the pan.

Heath

 

[OLDBULL8]

Just get the seal and speeded sleeve, they will come that way if ordered like that. Comes with a plastic guide for easy installation. $57 at Azone and others. Made in USA.

 

[icanfixall]

All the above is the way to do it. I can add the seal plate does not need a paper gasket. Good quality rtv will work fine. Just make sure all the plate and pan surfaces have been cleaned with brakeclean. Any oil left on any surfaces will cause a leak. Use a thread sealant on the crank bolt threads or you will have oil leaking past those threads.. Usually loctite blue works great there. The bolt torque for the crank bolts is 47 lbs.

 

[towtruckdave]

Are you sure it is the rear main seal?

These engines do not usually need a rear seal, it is usually the oil pan leaking.

Unfortunately, replacing either is a *****.

 

[oldblue05]

Are you sure it is the rear main seal?

These engines do not usually need a rear seal, it is usually the oil pan leaking.

Unfortunately, replacing either is a *****.

It all appears to be coming from between the engine and trans... and my clutch slips and makes the truck kinda lurch around on takeoff sometimes which makes me thing it is the rear main seal, maybe the oil pan is the problem, I know from reading other threads here to not use a gasket and only seal it with silicone. But just out of curiosity what has to come out to change the oil pan seal? The motor?

 

[hesutton]

Once you get the trans and flywheel off, if the rear main is leaking it will be obvious.

Dropping the pan with the motor in the truck is no easy task. if you are just wanting to re-silicone it, then it won't be a huge as pulling it off completely. You should be able to do it with the engine in the truck. Drain the oil, pull all the bolts and free the pan from the block. BrakeKleen the mortal **** out of both sealing surfaces. Any oil there will prevent a good seal and it will just leak again. Put silicone on both the pan and the block. Give a few minutes to get a bit more tacky, but don't let it dry out. Then start bolting it back in place. Pay particular attention to the front and rear covers. The gaps there are typically larger than what you find between the pan and the block. If you skimp too much on the silicone there, you'll have a gap and it will still leak.

This job is much easier with the engine on a stand.

Heath

 

[flatlander]

Once you get the trans and flywheel off, if the rear main is leaking it will be obvious.

Dropping the pan with the motor in the truck is no easy task. if you are just wanting to re-silicone it, then it won't be a huge as pulling it off completely. You should be able to do it with the engine in the truck. Drain the oil, pull all the bolts and free the pan from the block. BrakeKleen the mortal **** out of both sealing surfaces. Any oil there will prevent a good seal and it will just leak again. Put silicone on both the pan and the block. Give a few minutes to get a bit more tacky, but don't let it dry out. Then start bolting it back in place. Pay particular attention to the front and rear covers. The gaps there are typically larger than what you find between the pan and the block. If you skimp too much on the silicone there, you'll have a gap and it will still leak.

This job is much easier with the engine on a stand.Heath

Sounds so easy, Heath. You forgot to mention the contortion positions, hitting your head, cramps in you neck, working blind, crap fallling in your eyes. . .

 

[oldblue05]

Sounds so easy, Heath. You forgot to mention the contortion positions, hitting your head, cramps in you neck, working blind, crap fallling in your eyes. . .

sounds more realistic haha

 

[hesutton]

Sounds so easy, Heath. You forgot to mention the contortion positions, hitting your head, cramps in you neck, working blind, crap fallling in your eyes. . .

sounds more realistic haha

Now wait a second you suckers! I said the following before I made it "sound easy."

Dropping the pan with the motor in the truck is no easy task.

Heath

See.

Heath