Last time we tuned in, our little buddy was getting a facelift: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/ranger-gets-a-facelift.81927/ The new core support is holding just fine, but now the rear cab mounts need work. EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Truck-Cab-...m=253426124737&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226 F-series trucks can have this problem, but this is more common with Ranger based vehicles (Bronco2 and explorer). The worst part is that no visual inspection of the mounts can tell if there is damage until the rust spreads out from under the rubber block. Once the mounting hole has rusted open that far, it's already too late and the mount falls through the bracket. In our case, the bottom rubber actually fell off due to the retaining washer rusting away. This meant the cab was only held down by gravity on one corner, so road handling started to get worse. It Gets worse. All cab mount brackets are riveted to the frame, no surprise there. The rear bracket however, also supports the front end of the box (this is true for 1st gen ex-cabs too...). So if you plan to perform a proper repair, removing the bracket can be a real pain. I have done quick & dirty repairs on these before that involve simply welding a new plate on top of the original bracket. It works, but it looks like crap. It will also promote even more corrosion as time goes on, because you are stacking one plate on top of another. The small clearance between will trap sand, salt and moisture (AKA crevice corrosion). Most repairs I've seen on the web use this method because its easy, it works, and most don't care if they don't get another 30 years out of what is essentially a worthless truck. It's not all bad news. Dorman started making aftermarket brackets a couple years ago. Many rangers like this one are still in great condition, except for cab mounts that gave up the ghost. If you ever noticed a craigslist ad that shows a ranger with a cab that sags a little relative to the box, well, that's what you'll be up against. I've noticed a few adds up here in Canada for trucks that appear to be mint, except for that. In most cases the owner wouldn't even know what's happening. What follows here is a complete repair for both sides on my Dad's "pet" ranger. Whether replacing or restoring the bracket, the first thing to do is remove the bracket from the truck. The main mounting bolts will usually be rusted by now, so plan on using a big breaker bar with cheater pipe. Unbolting the front of the box can be a problem due to how inaccessible the U-nuts are underneath. We got lucky and Both front bolts came out without too much fuss. The canopy and bed liner had to come out first though. Again, everything was still in great shape. I used a floor jack and wood block to support the cab, then used my weapon of choice to blow off the rivets: Plasma Cutter! Shoot across the head, and try not to gouge into the bracket, if you plan on repairing it. Once the heads are off, an air-chisel should be able to push them through. The one catch here is that there are other chassis brackets on the inside of the frame rail that are also retained by the same rivets. They won't fall out, but the rivets might put up an extra fight in these spots. After some blood, sweat and expletives, the passenger side was out. The attached photos show the after market bracket compared to the rusted OEM bracket. If any of you are wondering, yes, there is a difference in metal thickness. However its so small you can barely notice. Fitment was also excellent, and the supplied rubber resulted in perfect cab height once torqued down. I was surprised.