Rear brake linings cracked

jhenegh

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So I replaced my rear brakes on Dec. 31 (everything new from the backing plate out to the drum). I noticed my passenger side seemed to be running hot and maybe dragging so I pulled them both apart tonight and discovered lots of brake dust and cracked linings on the passenger side. Driver side looked fine.

They were both adjusted to have just a little bit of drag when they were all assembled, but evidently the passenger side has worked up tighter somehow.

What is the likely cause for this? Wheel cylinder not returning? Any way the self adjuster can crank these brakes too tight? ( I thought those things rarely worked anyway! :dunno:rotflmao) I would suspect defective linings if both sides did it but the driver side looked perfect and had just a bit of dust from the 1500 miles ive driven since December.

I actually already have new DRW wheel cylinders that I was gonna swap out since I recently learned they are a bolt in and are a bit bigger. Now I need to get some new shoes too.

Thanks
 

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crash-harris

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Looks like heat cracking. Have you had your drums checked for roundness? Could be warped or have a raised spot in the drum on that one causing excess heat.
 

jhenegh

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Drums were brand new ACDelco 18B141, so I suspected they were OK but anything is possible. I don't doubt the heat cracking, the hub was pretty warm one time when I felt it
 

crash-harris

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I had a feeling they were new. Some folks have gotten new, out of round drums, but it's rare. Nothing of concern in the wear pattern on the drum?

The self adjusters only "work" if you slam the brakes in reverse at speed (like 10 mph or so...if the cables haven't rusted through). Are the e-brake cables new? They have been known to stick.
 

jhenegh

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Done some 10+ MPH backing while plowing snow but not much slamming of the brakes.

All 4 parking brakes cables new from cab to axle.

Little self adjuster cable in the drum is new and shiny too
 

crash-harris

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I would lean towards something not being lined up/round on that side. I wouldn't think that the self adjusters could over tighten the shoes, but as you said, that cable is new. Don't think the cylinder would be keeping the shoes from returning. There's springs in there for that.
 

typ4

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Double check that the e brake is not sticking. New doesn't mean right.
 

riotwarrior

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What grade of brake shoe is that? High end premium or lower service grade....

My exp is service grade does this alot more n folks realize.

Redone a few brake jobs...with servic grade parts and upgraded them to premium
 

jhenegh

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What grade of brake shoe is that? High end premium or lower service grade....

My exp is service grade does this alot more n folks realize.

Redone a few brake jobs...with servic grade parts and upgraded them to premium

Regular Centric parts stock. Ordered Motorcraft ones this time

Here's what it looked like
 

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pafixitman

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Based on the middle pic, from what I can tell you have the bigger shoe on the front? And what Bill posted, it should be on the rear. It's been 10 years since I did brakes on one of these so I'm kind of guessing... FWIW though, I did use all Motorcraft when I did mine.

On edit...Never mind, it is the pass side! Duh!
 

crash-harris

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IIRC, I always remember having 2 springs coming off that top center stud that connect to each shoe, along with the ones that connect both shoes.
 

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