Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

LCAM-01XA

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Hmm, as someone who also drives a hopped up Fummins I gotta disagree with you there - IMHO the n/a IDI actually does quite well on power, sure it's no rocket-ship but it does fine for what we do with it (which ironically is way more than what you do with yours). The hydro on the other hand, now that thing is mandatory - doesn't really matter how fast you can go if you can't stop worth a damn... For the record we do have a turbo kit, too much hassle/aggravation to install it tho LOL
 

Greg5OH

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I will have to say, I dont miss the N/A idi at all. it has grunt off the line, but that is it. Its flat.

Anyway, i have determined my buckign is definitely not engine related. Happens when you push the clutch in too, so its some kind of rotating assembly after the transmission doing it. I made lines way back on my driveshaft so ill do a quick visual today.

Also, any way over damped shocks could cause the chassis to go into an oscillating harmonic buckign vibration? When i had the 2k lbs of stuff in the bed the truck rode great and i dont recall it bucking at all. I really want to get some of those rancho 9000 adjustable ones, they have a 100$ mail in rebate right now, but so many other expenses. However the quivering over small road imperfections on the freeway is really, really starting to get to me...
 

laserjock

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That sounds like a driveline angle problem. With the weight on the truck you probably pushed something down a bit to change the angle. Universal joints don't like to be straight or change from pitched down to pitched up. They will try to bind. That may well be what you are experiencing. If the axle is wrapping slightly (which they all do) it may be changing your drive shaft angle enough that it's wanting to bind a little. May need to put a little more or less tilt on the ujoints somewhere. Being that it was all custom, there is a chance something is slightly out of it's happy place.
 

Greg5OH

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could be. I know I set it to factory 4 degree pinion angle, and the shorter shaft (tcase to hanger) is a 4 degrees which is per spicer driveline angle recomendation. I will double check all my angles again. I dont want to get into shimming my rear end again, but perhapos the carrier bearing needs to be lwoered a little bit more than I already did? again, will give it a good look over.
I need to look at the u joint sin the stock 06 DS as well, last time they were ok, but they are sealed units and ive seen them doing from good one week to binding and failing next week.
 

Greg5OH

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went to start truck today. not a cough. check voltage at end of glowplug-its there. Pull a plug, turn em on-yup shes dead jim.
All new motorcrafts going in today after work. 10.99 a pop amazon. Needed the truck today to pick up a water heater..Guess ill grab it after work now.
 

Greg5OH

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forgot to update. yep new plugs solved it, fires up pretty decently these days. Must have left the switch on by accident. Dumb me still dindt move from the on/off to the momentary push button. takes all of 1 minute to do! ill probably do that today while mounting the hand throttle.here she is looking all ****. Adding a hand throttle today as my "cruise control". Put my rear seats and belts in over the weekend. Need to tie up the front bumper still.
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next on the list is burning in some nice .5" D rings along the bed and clearance lights
 
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IDIoit

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i immediately thought of the cruise control that was installed on my boat.

nothing more than a lock out mechanism.

is this what youre using?

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Greg5OH

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yup basicaly that. Mine has a button in the middle that release the lock mechanism so you can snap it back to 0 throttle without having to screw it back in
 

sjwelds

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If so it won't be that great at maintaining speed. Your engine needs more fuel to climb hills and less to go down hills. A cable device such as that will keep the throttle at the same position and you will lose some speed on hills.

Still, better than nothing. I'd put a short length of (very small) chain between the end of the cable and the throttle lever tho. That way you can add fuel with the accelerator pedal and not "back-feed" into your cable.

JM2CW
 

IDIoit

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mine has a button also.
on the water, a constant RPM is desired,
i would definitely do as sherwin suggested with the chain, if not, adding fuel will be a pain.
 

IDIoit

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yes there are hills on the lake, and more so on the river, where i frequent.
ever see what kinda damage a 60 foot yacht can do when its doing 20 knots?

(insert the General Lee's horn here)
 

Greg5OH

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yes the chain is necessary. It came witht he hand throttle kit but I dont knwo where the heck it is. need to dig it out for sure!
However jsut thinkign baout it now, the way I am installing it, It wont back feed intot he hand throttle anyhow. I am making a little bracket off the accelerator pedal, and the hand throttle goes thru the front of it and is tied at the rear. So the level is getting pulled towards you. And when you add fuel with ur foot, it comes off the rear stop of the hand throttle, so it wont pull it with the pedal.
 

snicklas

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i immediately thought of the cruise control that was installed on my boat.

nothing more than a lock out mechanism.

is this what youre using?

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UM..... What does your throttle look like? Every boat I've been in (Runabout/pontoon/fishing boat) all have a telegraph. Push the stick forward, go forward, and faster. Pull to the middle, neutral/idle, pull back, go backward and faster......

Like this:

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or

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These hold the throttle position by default............. Maybe your vee-drives have a different throttle setup??????
 

Greg5OH

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did a 1000km+ trip this weekend. bunch of downtown stop and go traffic in toronto, and back to MI. Averaged somewhere around 17 mpg or so. Cruise on at 70, ripping it around. Pretty damn good truck I think!
Still was 100 bucks in fuel, but its the cost you pay for being able to haul big bulky items (picked up a queen mattress, frame and a bunch of tools from my buddy). The hand throttle works pretty good in these relatively flat parts of the country.
I ordered a new tire because I looked at everything, and it all seems to be fine, my u joint angles are good, everythign is tight etc. The one tire on the back I can visuaully see it has a lateral runout, so maybe it has axial run out as well. it takes 6 oz per side to balance, while the others have 1-2 oz per side. Might be the root cuase of the undesirable vibrations.
Still havent finished the bumper lol.
It is amazing how many people stop and stare at it, do a double take, thumbs up and "cool truck man!" I did not expect this from this truck.
It looks bad ass/ugly, and sounds bad ass too. the whistle is very loud. When driving beside a median on the right side witht he passenger window down you get blasted with a choppy whistle sound. Awesome.

oh PS does anyone have a red crewcab left rear seatbelt they can sell me?
 
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