Quick flywheel questions...

[jrollf]

My DMF is pretty much done. so I'm installing a new Valeo SMF.

My old DMF flywheel had this ring spacer to distribute the loads of the bolts but I did not get one with the new flywheel. Does the new SMF flywheel not need one or should I use the ring off my old DMF?

Also my new flywheel bolts came with the red sealant pre-applied, do I still need to put blue loctite on them to seal them to prevent oil leaks?

Thanks!

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1993 F350 Crew Cab Dually
XLT
7.3 Factory IDIT w/Banks Sidewinder
5spd Manual

 

[79jasper]

A dab of black rtv wouldn't hurt on the bolts. Loctite isn't exactly a sealant. Otoh, wouldn't hurt to use loctite, but iirc that's what the red stuff is.
Reuse the ring.
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[Macrobb]

The only advice I have to give is to make sure to properly torque the flywheel bolts... Not have your assistant try to install them with the big impact(~300ft-lbs) vs the small driver(~30ft-lbs) and then torque them(They all broke clean off 200 miles later).

 

[jrollf]

The only advice I have to give is to make sure to properly torque the flywheel bolts... Not have your assistant try to install them with the big impact(~300ft-lbs) vs the small driver(~30ft-lbs) and then torque them(They all broke clean off 200 miles later).

Agree, hand torque all the way around!

1993 F350 Crew Cab Dually
XLT
7.3 Factory IDIT w/Banks Sidewinder
5spd Manual

 

[Kevin 007]

Yeah I would add a little thread sealant to the existing amount that came pre installed. Not gonna hurt anything and it would suck to have one start leaking after a while. So thro a little more on.

Yeah you can re use the ring. I have seen the ring not get used also....never saw and i'll effects. However flat washers were used in those circumstances. Just did one today actually with washers and no ring. Just make sure you torque evenly and re-check to make sure. And you shouldn't have to think about em ever again.

 

[onetonjohn]

Agree, hand torque all the way around!

1993 F350 Crew Cab Dually
XLT
7.3 Factory IDIT w/Banks Sidewinder
5spd Manual

I always ran them in with an impact. zip, clack-clack, done. Probably not the proper procedure but time was money back then.

Since were talking about flywheels, one thing that hasn't been mentioned is that you may want to think about (re)turning the flywheel. I've seen brand new ones come back with chatter. For me, from then on, every flywheel was turned (new or not) before it went back together. Just so you don't think I'm crazy, I worked at a clutch shop in the late 80s early 90s for about 7 years.

 

[Macrobb]

I always ran them in with an impact. zip, clack-clack, done. Probably not the proper procedure but time was money back then.

If you use a proper-sized impact, or a smaller impact and then torque, you'll be fine. If you use a big high-powered 1/2" impact(which have been getting a lot stronger in recent years), one which can easily snap off 1/2" bolts... yeah. Especially if you don't just go zip-clack-clack-done, but zip-clack-clack until it stops moving then done.

 

[jrollf]

I always ran them in with an impact. zip, clack-clack, done. Probably not the proper procedure but time was money back then.

Since were talking about flywheels, one thing that hasn't been mentioned is that you may want to think about (re)turning the flywheel. I've seen brand new ones come back with chatter. For me, from then on, every flywheel was turned (new or not) before it went back together. Just so you don't think I'm crazy, I worked at a clutch shop in the late 80s early 90s for about 7 years.

I do use a cordless driver drill with a socket adapter to run the bolts in quickly. There's no risk that the driver drill will over torque the bolts... makes it easy.

1993 F350 Crew Cab Dually
XLT
7.3 Factory IDIT w/Banks Sidewinder
5spd Manual

 

[onetonjohn]

If you use a proper-sized impact, or a smaller impact and then torque, you'll be fine. If you use a big high-powered 1/2" impact(which have been getting a lot stronger in recent years), one which can easily snap off 1/2" bolts... yeah. Especially if you don't just go zip-clack-clack-done, but zip-clack-clack until it stops moving then done.

Good point. I should mention this was 25 years ago. I think 450 ft/lbs was a good gun back then - they are way more powerful today.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Since were talking about flywheels, one thing that hasn't been mentioned is that you may want to think about (re)turning the flywheel. I've seen brand new ones come back with chatter. For me, from then on, every flywheel was turned (new or not) before it went back together. Just so you don't think I'm crazy, I worked at a clutch shop in the late 80s early 90s for about 7 years.

I don't think you're crazy. I can believe it would happen.

 

[Randy Bush]

If you use some more sealant , I would put it on above the locktight that the bolts have on them. Other wise no point to the locktight.

 

[Christian9112]

I just had to redo my flexplate and I noticed that the bolts was stretched. I remember using an impact on the old ones. this time i torqued it to 35 ft/lb

 

[jrollf]

Got the transmission in, overall not a hard job... except getting the transmission to slide back in place, probably spent a good 45 minutes jiggling, pushing, and pulling before it decided to pop in place.

I have a few more trim pieces and some odds and ends to clean up then I will take it for a test drive. Just got too damn hot and humid in Houston by mid afternoon so I called it quits for the day. I did get it started to check the clutch works, pedal is A LOT easier than with the old DMF, of course the throw out bearing was toast so that may be a big part of it.

Lessons learned:
Pull the tranny hump cover, much easier to get to the top two bolts.

With the transmission out I could tilt the engine forward and remove the the turbo down pipe (Banks Sidewinder). Cleaned off the corrosion and painted with VHT 2000 degree paint and baked it in my powder coating oven. Then wrapped it in exhaust wrap and sealed it with high temp exhaust wrap silicone sealant spray, baked it again in my oven. Did the same to the crossover pipe. Hopefully will reduce turbo lag a little, but more importantly keep the cab cooler. I know... horror stories abound about exhaust wrap causing corrosion, hopefully the combination of the VHT paint and silicone seal it will last a while. Backup plan is to buy new pipes and get them ceramic coated, my existing ones are to old to be worth the expense.

Also was a good time to clean the underside of the cab and add heat reflecting barriers to the passenger floorboard and transmission hump.

1993 F350 Crew Cab Dually
XLT
7.3 Factory IDIT w/Banks Sidewinder
5spd Manual