putting a crewcab on a rotesserie for restoration

[Greg5OH]

Like title says, I will be building a rotesserie so I can put my cab on and give the floor a real nice overhaul, reinforce the cab mounts, and seal it all with por 15 inside and out. Refuse to work under the cab so I want to spin it around.
Any ideas how to mount the cab to the rotiesserie other than the bodymounts (since i need the whole floor to be free so i can fix whatever needs fixing).
I dont mind drilling holes to put bakcing plates in for support.

 

[laserjock]

Most of the build threads I have seen set the cab on the back to do the floor work. I'm planning on taking the rear window out and laying my supercab on its back to clean the floor up and epoxy prime it.

I've not really seen a truck cab on a rotisery. Just some information, the front of the cab is much heavier than the rear. I had considered doing this too but it just seems like a lot of work if you don't plan in doing this type of thing a lot.

There is also this cool thing that is essentially a pair of hoops that attach to the wheels that let you lay the truck over on its side. It's pricey but might be cheaper than doing a rotisery from scratch.

 

[Greg5OH]

didnt think of putting it on the back.
I do need to build a rotesserie either way for my mustang project, but the truck comes first-need it built and rock solid before getting into more serious restoration work, where a rotisserie will be critical. For now, with cab on its back my 22x22 garage will suffice!

Last year I cut and welded the entire driver floor, new A, B,and C lower pillars and cab corners all from scratch. Didnt do a proper jobon the bodymount since it was on the truck whole time, so excited to get it off and do a real job. Then epoxy prime the whole thing like you-seal that ***** up, then lay on some carriare paint, then bedliner. fully sealed, I never want that rust to come back.

 

[G. Mann]

I presume the cab will off the frame?

I suggest you take a different approach and rotate the cab at the door openings, rather than front to back. The door hinge plates are strong and easy to make attach points.. the rear of the door at the striker plate gives an attach point as well.

It would require fabrication of a pair of extra large "engine stands" [one for each side] that let you find the balance point for the cab so it could rotate easily.. If you built the stands with wide stance feet you could easy rotate the cab and work inside and outside to fab and weld as needed. A little thought and some square or rectangle tubing, some plate, a couple of round tubes with one inside the other.. Might even make it so you can jack up the cab, crib it off the frame, bolt up the stands and by supporting the frame on a floor jack, drop the rear wheels and roll the frame or the cab off.. one man job. [well almost maybe].

 

[Greg5OH]

One mad with the help of some jacks and an engine crane for sure! my new house is so far away from any buddies that I am required to make tools my friends.
But for now i think Ill just take it off with my gantry crane, then put it on its back. Just seems quick and easy like that vs building a rotisserie right now.

 

[laserjock]

Did you build the gantry crane or buy it? I'm starting to think its a tool I need to have. My help is non-existent these days.

 

[junk]

My cab was on it's back when I worked on the floor. I'm also thinking a gantry crane would be a good idea.